Stick Welding Cast Iron

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I'm familiar with the usual issues of expansion and contraction and the need to pre heat the entire part to be welded to around 900F and cool it slowly after welding and of course the need for a high nickel rod.But I stumbled upon this:http://muggyweld.com/cast-iron-repairWhere they say on that page that their  welding rod expands up to 300% more than other weld rods  ( what they alloy it with latex?)  And they claim  in the FAQ you only need to pre heat to get the moisture out of the iron  to avoid pinholesAny one ever used these products?  Do they work or is it hit or miss?Last edited by Raul; 02-03-2014 at 04:54 PM.Hey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:At $130 a pound they better give me oral sex after the weld is complete or I won't think I got my moneys worth.My favorite cast iron rod has always been UTP 85FN. It doesn't require pre or post heat. It does require a "U" groove and can't be welded over an inch with out peening but it's way faster and better than any other rod I've found. It's about $85 a pound, still quite expensive.
Reply:Certanium makes a wonderful cast iron stick rod that requires little pre and post prep. It is not cheap however.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Magical metalurgy ain't cheap I guess.Hey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:I still always go to the old square rod, torch and flux when in doubt.  Bucket of sand and time.  Used lots of diff nickel alloy rods but they all seem to have drawbacks depending on the type of iron and identifying can be tough.   If it is a deep thick weld I will not use SMAW anymore at all ....been burned on all day joints before just to have em let go on cool down and LBS of money in the joint.  I am sorry as I am not directly answering your question....American Alloy makes a few good (expensive) ones, Esab has a couple ok ones.... cant remember if I ever tried any Mckay nickel but I dearly love their SS rods.  Course if it is a non critical application you always got silicon bronze
Reply:Anybody tried the Hobart nomacast. I usually use 7018 for my cast Iron welding. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:http://www.crownalloys.com/products.phpBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:whats trhe better way to repair cast iron?SMAW or GTAW? can you get cast tig filler tig rods?
Reply:I've used Hobarts nomacast on tractor transmissions with good success.Again, Cast Iron repair is all based on the condition of the material.Everytime I think I get it figured out, something comes along that you can't stick to or chase cracks on.
Reply:Originally Posted by justin.walsh.969Anybody tried the Hobart nomacast. I usually use 7018 for my cast Iron welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by ReverserWhat is your procedure when using 7018? Do you peen the welds and cool slowly? Any preheat?
Reply:Good to know. I've heard of 7018 being used before, but the procedure wasn't mentioned.