trailer add on project

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so I recently got a 5 by 8 utility trailer I have been in need of one for the last 4-5 years. I never liked the options for tie downs so I decided to add a couple. I originally cut 6 to put onto the trailer but after I had welded these on I figured I should get some advice since im not too comfortable with how it all turned out. the one weld that looks horrendous I ground out and redid. it was starting to get dark though so I didn't run such a great weld so I have to regrind and weld again. but please comment and whatnot im just looking to make this right. I do not expect to be tying down anything over 1000lbs as I highly doubt a single axle trailer with 12'' tires will handle that weight or for that matter I doubt itll handle anything over 7-800lbs this is done with smaw 6013 1/8 rod at I believe 110 or so amps. metal thickness im not sure id have to go measure alos this is first attempt at vertical the horrendous weld is uphill when I realized I was going to need a lot of practice I tried downhill so this is the rest of the welds.
Reply:You are in dire need of practice, practice, practice.  And then more practice after that.Practice welding does not mean you start welding on projects until you finally (maybe) get it right.Practice means you get yourself a quantity of metal and practice on that.Practice actually begins by simply running beads at first to try and stay on a particular course and achieve a proper weld bead profile.Later, you can begin joining 2 pieces of metal together in various types of joins.When/if you can join 2 pieces of metal together in practice, then you can move on to doing real projects.But, you are trying at least.  You just need to do first things first and wait to do the advanced stuff later.
Reply:ive been practicing...although not doing so well I have been practicing...  99% of this is 6013 there may be 1 or 2 short lengths in 7018
Reply:in all seriousness though I started this thread realizing I need help. however trying to find anyone to teach me with the schedule I have and the amount of money I want to spend is near impossible. so I decided to see if I could get advice here. I was a bit hesitant seeing other threads were people were bashed pretty good. but I believe that's how itll always be in these types of jobs (im a mechanic) people are always going to be rough on you to grind the right way into your head. so im open to any advice. I weld flat all the time most of what I do flat is screwing around now to see what different arc lengths and motions will give me but besides that I have no idea what to try. I did buy a book on welding that they sell at home depot or lowes I forget which but it more or less describes the processes and how theyre applied verses how to apply said processes to different metal types and different scenarios.
Reply:First, let me applaud you for recognizing that those welds aren't safe.  The times people get ripped on is when they get the attitude that everything is fine and they don't care about the advice being given. One thing to remember though is while you may not be tying down anything more than 1000lbs weight, that's a static load.  Figure in your forces when you hit bumps or have to go from 60-0 right away.  6013 is the wrong rod for this, and you're not going to be able to run 7018 vertical, practice some 6010.  But a better option would be post your location and maybe someone on here would be able to give you some one on one help and make sure the pockets welded on well.
Reply:I was under the impression that 6010 was a dc only rod and my machine only runs ac. I do have a ac/dc machine but the motor is I need of a crankshaft
Reply:I presume you're using your Weldanpower 150 in which case you're better off using 6011 and then 7018AC when the time comes.If there isn't someone close by that you can get to help with your learning curve, Jody (weldingtipsandtricks) has a lot of good videos on stick welding techniques as does WW member Lanse (ChuckE2009), both on their own youtube channels.You can also go to the Miller and Lincoln websites and watch/read their educational videos/materials on the topic.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I have been watching both their youtube channels theyre extremely helpful especially the close ups of the puddle I would have never known how to distinguish anything without their videos. my only problem as of now is keeping my machine running long enough to weld a good amount of material. it seems everytime I run it for 2-3 hours it just wants to start giving me issues. hopefully when I get my other machine back together I can actually practice as much as id like.
Reply:Don't worry about being bashed here, your attitude will bring you good advice and help, you seem to be an honest and responsible guy. Common sense seem to be less common these days...;o)
Reply:Get you a piee of metal same thickness as you will be weldingRun you a bead in slow motion - other words slow down show yoursef that your not going to burn thruonce you get this in your head the rest will come easyjust my 02¢The main thing is not to panic or get excited Bobcat 250, X-Treme 12VS,  MM211Meltabo, Milwaukee,Porter Cable,Dewalt,MakitaVictor O/A, Ingersoll-RandEvolution Rage2, 40 amp PlasmaLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Yes, watch the videos and then try to emulate some of the actions you have seen done in the vids.  Reading is also a good way to pick up tips and pointers.And by all means, do ask questions on here about anything that's bugging you weldingwise.And practice.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55I presume you're using your Weldanpower 150 in which case you're better off using 6011 and then 7018AC when the time comes.If there isn't someone close by that you can get to help with your learning curve, Jody (weldingtipsandtricks) has a lot of good videos on stick welding techniques as does WW member Lanse (ChuckE2009), both on their own youtube channels.You can also go to the Miller and Lincoln websites and watch/read their educational videos/materials on the topic.
Reply:6011 has a lot of the same characteristics as 6010 but runs on AC. Its a fast freeze rod. The 7018AC is stronger and a better choice but also has a longer learning curve to get it run correctly. Based on what I'm seeing for metal thickness 3/32 rods you should be using. As others stated though on practice steel not the trailer. Good attitude and good luck. Going up hold your corners and move quickly across the joint. Until you get good at reading the puddle a quick 1-1000 count on each corner works pretty close.Last edited by KD Welding; 03-30-2014 at 08:15 PM.
Reply:Although the two rods are different, I believe the 6011 will allow you to get a better "feel" on your AC only machine before attempting the 7018.  The 6011 will strike easier and stay lit better than even the 7018AC which can still be finicky on an AC.Just my personal opinion.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I've been around welding for almost fifty years and I have only seen one man who could run 6013 vertical up or vertical down the way it should be done.  It is what we call a runny rod, going up you have to have a steady hand and be on top of the puddle.  Vertical down makes a weak weld because the puddle wants to run wet part wants to get ahead of the puddle and include the flux, just like it did in some of your photos.You're correct about 6010.  One of my orneriness tricks is if I'm wearing my rod holder pouch it invariably has some 5P+ in it.  If a bud is welding with 6011 which happens often around country work I will slip him one of my rods and watch him have fits.What I suggest you do is get some 1/4" coupons (scrap pieces of steel) and bevel the edge for butt welding.  Use 6011 1/8" rod and what you are trying to do is learn the wet.  Wet is the best term I've ever heard to describe welding.  Get one side wet and then the other side until you have both sides wet, then your rod will fill in the gap and you have a puddle, move it down the line.  Most newbies move way too fast whipping the rod around like it's got a spider coming down to their hand.  Slow it down and concentrate on the wet.  When you see it you will know exactly what I'm talking about.life is good
Reply:yeah I do have a ton of trouble starting the 7018ac. once I get a puddle It usually stays but that's my main problem is starts. the full length welds are 7018ac that I did roughly an hour ago it was roughly 110amps
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingFirst, let me applaud you for recognizing that those welds aren't safe.  The times people get ripped on is when they get the attitude that everything is fine and they don't care about the advice being given. One thing to remember though is while you may not be tying down anything more than 1000lbs weight, that's a static load.  Figure in your forces when you hit bumps or have to go from 60-0 right away.  6013 is the wrong rod for this, and you're not going to be able to run 7018 vertical, practice some 6010.  But a better option would be post your location and maybe someone on here would be able to give you some one on one help and make sure the pockets welded on well.
Reply:Forces to overcome to hold a 1,000 Lb piece of cargo in place? Like in what will it take to hold it in place if you crash into something solid?  Is that what you're asking?  It used to be somewhat a rule of thumb that your trailer structure, any rigging, chains, cables, shackles, turn buckles, binders , and anchor tie off had to be able to hold the load at "6 Gs".  That means all items used to secure a 1,000 Lb must be rated to withstand 6,000 Lb tension loading.  Due to inertia, that 1,000 Lb static load has a whole new meaning at highway speeds.  And I'm not even sure I have it right on the 6Gs, it may be 9Gs.
Reply:maybe well focus on perfecting the welds then go to learning how to correctly engineer things. and I was asking if theres a way to determine what type of material is necessary mathematically to hold the highest load capable from a 1000lb load wether it be static or at highway speeds which im not sure if theirs a proper term for that.
Reply:Originally Posted by strtspdlxhow should I figure in forces of say a 1000 lb object at 70mph as id never go over 70 with this trailer. and turn that into I need x size steel to hold it?
Reply:Originally Posted by wroughtn_harvWhat I suggest you do is get some 1/4" coupons (scrap pieces of steel) and bevel the edge for butt welding.  Use 6011 1/8" rod and what you are trying to do is learn the wet.  Wet is the best term I've ever heard to describe welding.  Get one side wet and then the other side until you have both sides wet, then your rod will fill in the gap and you have a puddle, move it down the line.  Most newbies move way too fast whipping the rod around like it's got a spider coming down to their hand.  Slow it down and concentrate on the wet.  When you see it you will know exactly what I'm talking about.
Reply:Originally Posted by strtspdlxI was under the impression that 6010 was a dc only rod and my machine only runs ac. I do have a ac/dc machine but the motor is I need of a crankshaft
Reply:Originally Posted by strtspdlxI was under the impression that 6010 was a dc only rod and my machine only runs ac. I do have a ac/dc machine but the motor is I need of a crankshaft
Reply:Originally Posted by mad welder 46010 is DC only and it can be picky about the DC current when its rough.I get perfect down hill with 1/8 inch lincoln 7018 running 145 amps AC.Running 6011 and 6013 down hill, AC or DC not as good.
Reply:Originally Posted by drillerjoeWhat machine do have that is AC/DC and in need of a crank shaft?Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkWhat's wrong with the crankshaft, rod bearing failed?  If the block is not holed, crankshafts might be cleaned up successfully.But that depends are how handy you are in DIY mode.
Reply:Vertical is most likely the hardest position to learn to run. You can get away doing timing patterns doing flat or horizontal. That just doesn't work on vertical however. Trick with vertical is to 1st learn to read the puddle.As mentioned get plenty of scrap and practice 1st in position before taking on projects. Things that require good penetration and structural strength almost always need to be done vertical up, not down like you did. I don't get to weld vertical with stick as much as I'd like many times. So when ever I have something that has to be done right on a project with stick, I break out the old scrap pieces and 1st spend 1/2 hour or so running practice beads to get my hand back in and get the machine set up the way I like.If 7018AC doesn't run well on your machine, 7014 is a good substitute for Ac machines that is almost as strong and runs well in AC..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldWhat's wrong with the crankshaft, rod bearing failed?  If the block is not holed, crankshafts might be cleaned up successfully.But that depends are how handy you are in DIY mode.
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingI'm not sure of how to calculate that, someone with more knowledge may be able to chime in, but I'm just saying that securing your load isn't just about how much the object weighs, if you turn your trailer upside down and your pockets are rated for 1000lbs, they will hold, but in the event of sudden braking or worse a crash, there would be more force than 1000lbs on those pockets.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWVertical is most likely the hardest position to learn to run. You can get away doing timing patterns doing flat or horizontal. That just doesn't work on vertical however. Trick with vertical is to 1st learn to read the puddle.As mentioned get plenty of scrap and practice 1st in position before taking on projects. Things that require good penetration and structural strength almost always need to be done vertical up, not down like you did. I don't get to weld vertical with stick as much as I'd like many times. So when ever I have something that has to be done right on a project with stick, I break out the old scrap pieces and 1st spend 1/2 hour or so running practice beads to get my hand back in and get the machine set up the way I like.If 7018AC doesn't run well on your machine, 7014 is a good substitute for Ac machines that is almost as strong and runs well in AC.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004While I'm sure there is a computer program that can make all the calculations I'm not sure you need to go that far if you're just hauling a 800 lb riding mower or a couple of washing machines. Just beef it up. You don't use one 800 pound strap to tie-down you use four. Then use your common sense and drive carefully. I would be more concerned about making sure the new welds that secure your tie-downs are sound.
Reply:Originally Posted by strtspdlxI realize for tying down stuff ill be towing which will never exceed 6-700 lbs may not be critical but its the point. if theres a way to figure out how to properly engineer a structure for safety reliability and safety id like to know how to do it. I love learning how to build stuff and how stuff works which is why I became a mechanic. recently though im more interested in structures fabrication and metalwork so im seeing if I have the skillset to successfully change careers. any knowledge I can get to do things correctly id love to have.
Reply:I have a crankshaft for that engine.Miller Syncrowave 180Miller 211 w/ spool-gunLincoln Ac/Dc buzzboxCutmaster 38 plasmaVictor,Smith's,and Craftsman (Harris) O/A torches.DeWalt Multi cutterFiber Metal helmets(old school)Enough Snap-On to be a dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by ChrisA7164I have a crankshaft for that engine.
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingMaybe post some overall pictures to see what you've done/trying to do with the trailer.
Reply:Originally Posted by strtspdlxas of right now the only things ive done with the trailer are the two tie downs I had originally pictured in this post. but after everyones advice I think ill put this project on hold for awhile and try to learn more before I attempt to do it again. but mainly id like to stiffen the trailer up a bit as theyre a bit flexible or atleast that's what I think. im not trying to up load capacity as I understand it is a pos lowes trailer. just more or less add some more tie down options and maybe add a place to put a removable vice and some sort of metal working table as right now I have atable but its wood and it keeps catching on fire
Reply:Originally Posted by strtspdlxI realize for tying down stuff ill be towing which will never exceed 6-700 lbs may not be critical but its the point. if theres a way to figure out how to properly engineer a structure for safety reliability and safety id like to know how to do it. I love learning how to build stuff and how stuff works which is why I became a mechanic. recently though im more interested in structures fabrication and metalwork so im seeing if I have the skillset to successfully change careers. any knowledge I can get to do things correctly id love to have.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004I think that you are missing my point. You are not going to learn mechanical and or structural engineering from this forum. You won't learn welding from this forum. You can get tips and advice but that is about it. It isn't that easy! What I was saying however, is that you are a mechanic. You have common sense and seem like a bright fella (from what I have seen on this forum). If your cargo is moving about or not sturdy, strap it down with more straps. You don't need to add more stuff to the trailer. The same thing with welding. If you aren't sure about the soundness of your welds and your technique, I don't think you will learn how to make x-ray quality welds from this forum. But until you do, just don't make crucial things, like tree stands, trailers, space shuttle launch pads, suspension bridges etc. Keep it light. If  you are serious about changing careers, go to school. Learn hands on! What does it take to become an engineer?  A lot of work. Same with a cerified welder. It just isn't that simple. However, for what it sounds like you are trying to do, I don't think all of that is necessary. By the way, I hope you take my reply the way it was meant to be, which is light hearted.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerWait, what are you planning on using the trailer for? based on this description it seems like you're trying to make it a mobile welding trailer. and based on this thread, you're no where near that level yet. I understand that you're trying to learn, and you're planning on holding off until you've improved your welding a lot. but if that is the intended use for this trailer you may just want to stop now and wait until you've got the skills needed to be a mobile welder before you decide on the trailer you plan on using for this purpose. Most Welding trailers are 100% custom builds or they are built off of decent trailers, not the crap you buy at the big box store. there is a reason for this. Longevity and reliability. neither of which are known qualities of the Big box store trailers.