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I have an old Miller Syncrowave 250 that was given to me. It's in excellent condition, looks like it was never used. It was made in 1988, and from what I can tell is a second generation model (serial number: JJ489870). I talked with Steve for a little while on the phone yesterday, but thought I would put up the new info for any other members to chime in and so it's easier to keep track of. Here's what happened initially: I plugged it all in, got it all wired up, set it to about 50amps, put in 1/16 gold tungsten, running straight Argon, about 11CFH, running DCEN, tapped the foot pedal and the tungsten instantly fried up, high frequency stayed on and the gas kept coming out (HF was set to start, not continuous). Well I found an issue inside the foot pedal, there switch inside was a little bent so it never turned off once it turned on. Fixed this so now everything turns off when I step off the foot pedal. After messing around with it a little more, I've found that I pretty much have two settings. Barely step on the foot pedal and it feels like it's burning at about 150amps, step it a little further and it jumps to kill. I switched the machine to panel amperage control, same thing. When the amps are set at 4 it actually burns around 150, anything over that it jumps to full throttle. This has all been the same for AC as well. So the way I see it, there's two issues. The less sever issue being that the HF stays on all the time, regardless if the switch is in start or continuous. However it does not come on if set to off. I checked the relay (CR1 I believe) and it looks clean, and it turns off once I step off the pedal. And the other obvious issue being the lack of amperage control. All connections look good, no sign of corrosion or shorting anywhere, like I said before, everything is very clean. Looks untouched. Based on my research, Miller trouble shooting guide, and what Steve told me, it's probably the PC1 board. But is there no way to verify it is actually the board? I don't want to put much, if any, money into this. In fact, I was thinking if it all worked properly, I might sell it and buy a Dynasty. But I don't want to sell a non-working machine for $500 if I could fix it for $100 and then sell it for $1000+. Any advice would be much appreciated on diagnosing the machine!Here are some pictures of the machine and it's guts:John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Sorry can't help, just wanted to say that thing is beautiful! Looks like it was in a museum all its life! And it was just given to you? You suck! 12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:I have nearly the same machine and had a similar problem. Turned out to be a loose plug on the hall device. Yours may not have the hall device and may still have the shunt. But either way, it is worth it to monkey around and troubleshoot it a bit before investing in a board. if you have the technical manual and a multimeter you can rule out a lot of stuff before making the call it is the board. If you have any friends who are ham radio operators you will be surprised how many of them have oscilloscopes, so you can run all of the tests in the technical manual.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:There's no hall device on his machine. You can do the power checks on the board with the tech manual references, but it's pretty classic to have no control of output as symptom for PC1 failure. He may get the one in a million break that it's the pot, but it never works that way for me.The key question is of course, what else may be wrong in conjunction with it. Believe me, it gets expensive fast from there. More than the machine is worth in most cases.IMHO of course |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:33:51