Jack base

admin

Saw a plastic jack base in a catalog and decided to make one of my own out of 1/4" steel. I feel like i should have cut this rusty steel with a oxy/acetylene torch... my plasma cutter didn't seem to like it much. Had one bad experience cutting rusty steel, once where I didn't grind down to bare metal for my plasma ground clamp and it partially melted. Anyhow, the first weld pic is MIG and the second is 1/8" 7014. Not a real inspiring project, but should come in handy. Thermal Arc 211iThermal Arc 201iThermal Arc 95SEverlast 200DXEverlast Powerplasma 50Victor OAVictor portatorch
Reply:Nice grass.  At first glance the metal looks like The shape of the state of Texas.  Nice project.
Reply:Very nice dawtson!!!  Okay, Story time:  Originally, I had the same basic set up with a 1/4" base plate and brought it on a rock-crawl cross country off road trek.   We used it with a Hi-Lift jack and the ground was rocky in a river bed.  Read: no "flat surface" available in the vicinity.  After lifting the front end of a lifted Dodge  Power Wagon off of the river bed for a wheel replacement, the 1/4" base plate bent.   It deformed pretty good.  Subsequently, my plan is to make the following:  By using a rail road tie plate I had originally intended as a rifle target gong, I will weld a  "corral" on the top of the plate to contain the Hi-Lift jack's base plate.  The corral  will be used to prevent the jack's base plate from slipping off the rail road tie plate, just as it is depicted in dawtson's build.  In the pictures below, I had welded a handle (another rail road piece of "something" I found).  I just haven't had the time to sand off the paint to weld on the four sided "corral" box yet for the Hi-Lift.  Maybe next weekend I'll finally get to it.   The pictures give you the idea of what I'm talking about.  This base plate will NEVER bend or deform, unless I try to lift an M1-Abrams tank.  This particular heavy R/R tie plate measures 7/8" thick  in the middle, with a gradual taper to 5/16" at the very end. Attached ImagesLincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcVery nice dawtson!!!  Okay, Story time:  Originally, I had the same basic set up with a 1/4" base plate and brought it on a rock-crawl cross country off road trek.   We used it with a Hi-Lift jack and the ground was rocky in a river bed.  Read: no "flat surface" available in the vicinity.  After lifting the front end of a lifted Dodge  Power Wagon off of the river bed for a wheel replacement, the 1/4" base plate bent.   It deformed pretty good.  Subsequently, my plan is to make the following:  By using a rail road tie plate I had originally intended as a rifle target gong, I will weld a  "corral" on the top of the plate to contain the Hi-Lift jack's base plate.  The corral  will be used to prevent the jack's base plate from slipping off the rail road tie plate, just as it is depicted in dawtson's build.  In the pictures below, I had welded a handle (another rail road piece of "something" I found).  I just haven't had the time to sand off the paint to weld on the four sided "corral" box yet for the Hi-Lift.  Maybe next weekend I'll finally get to it.   The pictures give you the idea of what I'm talking about.  This base plate will NEVER bend or deform, unless I try to lift an M1-Abrams tank.  This particular heavy R/R tie plate measures 7/8" thick  in the middle, with a gradual taper to 5/16" at the very end.
Reply:First thing you do is throw that jack out!!!! Worlds most dangerous jack! I wouldn't have one in my shop for anything
Reply:Originally Posted by romanFirst thing you do is throw that jack out!!!! Worlds most dangerous jack! I wouldn't have one in my shop for anything
Reply:Originally Posted by romanFirst thing you do is throw that jack out!!!! Worlds most dangerous jack! I wouldn't have one in my shop for anything
Reply:Originally Posted by romanFirst thing you do is throw that jack out!!!! Worlds most dangerous jack! I wouldn't have one in my shop for anything
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThey work great for pulling posts. A real time saver if you need to replace a fence or gate.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...-Pulling-posts
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcA firearm is dangerous too if one doesn't know not to look down the barrel when pulling the trigger.  Same goes for a Hi-Lift jack. Remain clear of your head from the underside of  the jack handle and make sure the locking pins engage with each and every FULL  stroke of the handle.  Simple and safe, no problems.  Proper knowledge of using a tool correctly goes a long way.
Reply:I just keep a piece of 2x6 about 2' long to set under mine on soft ground. It's light and easily replaceable. Yes, they are dangerous, but you need to be smarter than the jack.                                                         MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveBah humbug   they are quite handy - but still the most dangerous jack. It can be both