Machining Female taper

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Good afternoon all, I would like to ask for some help on how to go about machining a female taper into steel. Whether you know of a some kind of drill bit or how to do it on a lathe, as long as it works it doesn't really matter.I have attached the print (circled in red) and a quick sectioned 3d model of what needs to get cut. The dimensions in question are 18mm diameter with a 1/6 cone taper down over a length of 18mm. All insight is greatly appreciated.Thanks - Erik Attached Images
Reply:Measure the distance between the high side and the low side then do some Trig and you will get the angle answer..Then it's just simple machining in a lathe using the compound.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Hello mocamber, the simple answer is that there is a tapered reamer that will cut that taper into a part. Might be a bit spendy, but if you are planning on doing a number of these it's probably worthwhile. As zap answered, you could do the trig. and set-up the rest and use the compound on the lathe or use the taper attachment portion to cut the necessary taper. Best of luck and regards, Allanaevald
Reply:I'm more looking for a tapered reamer than anything as you mentioned allen, there are a number of these that need to be done. I have found a few tapered bits on mcmaster that might be close enough but I figured I would ask to see if anybody knows a better solution. Can tapered bits be found in 1/6 slopes?Zapster - I could be mistaken but I was worried the small boring bar that is available will not fit on the small end of the cone.
Reply:Originally Posted by MocamberZapster - I could be mistaken but I was worried the small boring bar that is available will not fit on the small end of the cone.
Reply:Made your own boring bars or reamer? Do you mind sharing how you did it?
Reply:A tapered cutter will be forced to cut over the entire tapered area.  It's not practical to cut to dimensions all the way like that.  You rough cut it on the compound, and finish it with a reamer.
Reply:I make all my own boring bars..Some are nothing more than a 3/8" or 1/2" Hi Speed tool blank ground the way I like 'em..(I do my own grinding)..Some are toolbits tigged to a piece of stock..Whatever I need I make.No biggie.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Your 6-1 taper does not match any of the standards.  You could have a tool and cotter grinder make one from a tapered pipe reamer.  (¼ - or 3/8 pipe) If you need enough of them.  Or just bore them on a lathe.
Reply:If you don't have a lathe, you can get a ball joint reamer. Look at the bottom of this page.http://www.traverscatalogs.com/lg_di..._2011/page/105The 9.56 degree one is 1:6.http://www.travers.com/product.asp?R...&target=bottomHere's a less expensive one:http://www.xkut-reamers.com/servlet/...ER-FOOT/DetailYou can google "ball joint reamer" and look for ones with 2 inch per foot taper.Lincoln SA200, HH135, Lencospot, HF80 Inverter, Rockwell 11x35 lathe, HF drill mill, Kama 554 tractor w/ FEL & BH, Belarus 250AS, lot's of Chinese tools
Reply:I'm with Zap on this one.  The small side is over 1/2".  Of course, I would use the taper attachment instead of the compound if I had more than a couple to make.
Reply:Thank you very much for all the replies. I searched the part number Brad suggested and I found one from summit. I'll give it a try and hopefully it will work out well.For reference:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL11172
Reply:Can you source it out to somebody with a CNC lathe? Pieco O cake for that. I make my own reamers because I needed the small dim to be .016. Kinda funny to see it in the turret of a 30HP late.
Reply:the guy across the street from me used to do this all day long with his taper attachment.   He was an unagreeable character for sure but an absolutely brilliant machinist.     He recently passed away and his son started liquidating his equipment.  I wish i would have picked up his little Sydney lathe with the power taper attachment.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:i use to machine steering knuckles for Dana Spicer about 15 yrs ago... we used tapered reamers, we were running production setups in a cnc mill. we used an Allied inserted drill to drill one size under the small hole size of the taper, had a 4 fluted spiral roughing reamer then a 6 fluted spiral finishing reamer..  we also had to peck the reamer, the tapered reamer worked better under a load, we would leave about .05 stock for the finisher. oil worked better than synthetic lubricant, but that was 15 yrs ago, coolant has come a long way.. seems like we used coolant for the drill and roughing operation then used ez-foamy with the finisher.we also had to meet certain finish requirements for Dana, seems like i remember it being better than 80% blue on a precision ground taper gage. couldnt have any tearing on the finish either...  this was acyually a type of safety requirement as it promoted the taper to lock on the balljoint, if you got like 75% they would not lock together...tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/