whats with the milwalkee dry cut blade

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bought a milwalkee saw came with a blade but the blade petered out after 16 cutsfirst two cuts on 3"x1/4" square tubing birthday cakethen cut some 1/2"x3" flat and did great for 10 or so cuts then here we go started cutting with a little vibration and eventually stopped cutting. None of the teeth are chipped but are narrower than before. Are these saws made for 1/2" material? Do I need to cut flat bar flat or vertical on the table? Are these blades worth a fart? What is the best blade? What is the maximum thickness material? And does the blade need to cool between cuts, if so how long?
Reply:I haven't had the trouble you're describing, and I use the Mil 72T blade in mine.  You need to cut flat bar vertically and angle iron with the "V" pointing up.  The worst thing on the blade would be trying to cut the flat with it laying horizontal - overheats the teeth.  You can adjust the fixed vise jaw to 3 different positions to get the blade to come into the square tubing on a corner rather than onto the middle of the flat top.  Some people have adapted the vise to lock the square tube at a 45 degree angle, so it looks like a diamond in cross-section when locked in.  This would help blade life.I would usually run the saw for a few seconds unloaded between cuts on thick square tubing.  My blades last for quite awhile.  I tried a Porter-Cable blade once, but went back to Milwaukee.  If there's discoloration in the cut metal, you're destroying your blade by overheating it.  Hope this rambling helps.
Reply:I have had great luck with the Milwaukee blades.  I tried the Dewalt ones  and they are god-awful loud.  I did kill a blade once by cutting up a cheap bedframe.  BAM!! instantly dull.ars sine scientia nihil est
Reply:I use Milwalkee blades. I mostly use mine for 1/4 mild plate. Never had a problem, generally cut more than I thought the blade would last. I lost some teeth cutting multiple layers (as in 20+ sheets) of roofing tin once. The real trick is to keep the saw feed correct, too fast and you'll chip teeth. Too slow and you'll wear teeth. I suspect some shapes are harder on the blade than others.
Reply:I think I need to get a new blade or have mine sharpened already. Cutting some 4" sch40 it would stop cutting the bottom of the pipe. It would just sit there regardless of pressure. If I turned the pipe it would cut perfectly but for some reason it refused to cut the bottom of the pipe. I had only done a few cuts of the pipe before it stopped cutting. Weird though, since it cuts 3x3/8 (been using alot of that recently) still very quicklyMiller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders