Weld critique please

admin

I was hoping for your feedback on a few welds on my 350p in mig mode.  I'm sure your years of experience can see things I'm not familiar with.I'm just dialing in setting using 90/10 gas on 3mm steelNo prep on steel using er70s-6 generic wireTrying to see what my baseline should be for ideal weld to help improve my skill set Any advice would be greatly appreciatedLast edited by padronanniversary; 04-01-2014 at 07:24 PM.Miller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221
Reply:They don't look half bad to me. did you clean the metal before welding? looks like you didn't take the mill scale off, which could be an issue. someone with more experience would be able to say. I also think a couple of those welds look cold maybe.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:No cleaning at all. That's what I'm trying to determine if they are considered cold, etc Any input is greatly appreciatedMiller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221
Reply:All I see is the heat overly directed at the bottom piece.It's a gravitational thing.(top and bottom photos)Flip it and lets see the back side.If you worked for me I'd walk on by without saying a word because it's just 1/8(3mm) If it was 5/8 an azz chewing would commence.You have good technique.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Burpee thank you for the input never thought about looking at back side.  That's exactly more of the input to help me get betterMiller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221
Reply:I'm assuming your using a C25 (25% Co2 in argon) gas mix? if so, i dont see a massive amount of room for improvement technique wise, aim a little more at the top plate (perhaps angle the hand-piece a little more towards to top plate).i see you've written the wire speed and amps next to each weld, the 19.5/185 weld is the best looking, maybe go a little lower on the wire then you have, but 185 seems to be your sweet spot.Last edited by ttoks; 04-01-2014 at 10:10 PM.
Reply:Tools thanks.  I'm actually running 90/10, because I'm still playing around with pulse (not in this case). I got a bottle of 90/10 and 100% argon for al.   Now you have me thinking about getting another bottle I did look at the back surprisingly enough I had more heat penetration towards the top piece since I slightly paused at top making the little e shape.  Back to welding tonight working in technique keeping in mind gravity.I still can't weld up that great downhill seems so much easier.  I'm trying to dedicate a hour a night working in technique.Thanks again all for your insightful advice.  I'll keep at it hoping one day to be half as good as you allMiller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221
Reply:looks like you didn't take the mill scale off, which could be an issue.
Reply:With 90/10 you should get almost no spatter if you fine tune.  Even too much of a gun angle can create excessive spatter.  Welds are flat/convex ( good)  Your 20 - 200 bead has a hint of undercut on the upper toe.  That likely again is gun angle.
Reply:spatter is the biggest issue I've notice I'm having lately. with millscale I assume to have a bit I assume.  It seems regardless how I weld (at least with milscale) the arc seem to be how should I say this, digging into the metal as I weld producing spatter.I'll work on gun angle more and see if this helps.  thanks again all for the input.Miller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221
Reply:with a high end machine you can quite easily weld without removing the mill scale, but even with an average hobby machine you shouldn't be getting that much spatter with 10% Co2.i'd suggest turning the voltage up a bit (whatever your on, bump it up by 1-1.5 volts) and go around 10% higher on the wire speed, you will need to travel more quickly then you do now obviously, but it should also remove the need to manipulate the hand piece, which can be a contributing factor to spatter when welding with mill scale, keep upping the heat input until you notice it's starting to blow through, once you get setting the welder right and the technique down, you should be able to weld 3mm plate on around 25-26 volts with a very very fast welding speed without blowing through.for torch angle, i usually like to have only around 15 degree's push angle with solid wire, even square if i'm able to weld hot enough. Originally Posted by padronanniversaryspatter is the biggest issue I've notice I'm having lately. with millscale I assume to have a bit I assume.  It seems regardless how I weld (at least with milscale) the arc seem to be how should I say this, digging into the metal as I weld producing spatter.I'll work on gun angle more and see if this helps.  thanks again all for the input.
Reply:Originally Posted by ttokswith a high end machine you can quite easily weld without removing the mill scale, but even with an average hobby machine you shouldn't be getting that much spatter with 10% Co2.i'd suggest turning the voltage up a bit (whatever your on, bump it up by 1-1.5 volts) and go around 10% higher on the wire speed, you will need to travel more quickly then you do now obviously, but it should also remove the need to manipulate the hand piece, which can be a contributing factor to spatter when welding with mill scale, keep upping the heat input until you notice it's starting to blow through, once you get setting the welder right and the technique down, you should be able to weld 3mm plate on around 25-26 volts with a very very fast welding speed without blowing through.for torch angle, i usually like to have only around 15 degree's push angle with solid wire, even square if i'm able to weld hot enough.
Reply:And by the way you guys rock thanksMiller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221
Reply:Too funny... sometimes the simplest problem is worth stepping back from and re-checking settings and parameters.  I sub at a welding school and kid asks for help...  I swagger in and then start scratching my head.  No matter what I do on this gas shielded flux core wire we are getting spatter.  I ask regular instructor when he gets back.... He spots it right away... wrong polarity.  We all live in a glass house no need to throw stones LOL
Reply:I was going to tell you your voltage was to high for 1/8" ( 3mm) thick steel, but you figured it out yourself.  The cursive "e" motion on 1/8" material is going to cause you to produce over sized welds. This can lead to added distortion.  For 1/8", all you need to do is travel straight along the joint, maybe using a slight side to side wiggle if need to help wet the puddle out a little - see attachment. Compared to C25, in short circuit transfer mode, C10 produces some what sluggish weld puddle wet out. With your unit though you can combat this by increasing the inductance.  In the long run though C25 is the better choice for short circuit transfer. First it produces deeper penetration then C10. Secondly, C25 produces a smoother arc. Attached ImagesESAB Migmaster 250 Hobart Ironman 230Multimatic 215TWECO Fabricator 181i & 211iHH125EZ - nice little fluxcore only unitMaxstar 150 STH - very nice
Reply:This board and thread is becoming a great depository of knowledge for me. It's interesting that you mention the e swirly as that exactly what's happening with the build up.Looks like I'll be buying another bottle 75/25 here soon.  I'll probably burn through this rather large bottle and buy a 120 and use 90/10 in that one and 75/25 if the larger.  Feels like I want a cart now that holds three bottles Miller 350PMiller 30AHobart trekHTP Invertig 221