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hey nowi did research on this and i got no definite answer. i have a 10" dewalt 15amp 5000 rpm mitre saw. it would be nice if i could get a blade on it to cut metal stock, angle up to 3/16 thick, small diameter pipe.  i really dont have the money for a new cut off saw. im not looking to cut metal 24/7 all day every day. im just looking to cut pieces her and there when i need a real stright for but joints or 45 for corner cut as opposed to using a cut off wheel which i end up snapping everytime i try. (those of you who use grinders all the time know it takes finesse to make cuts. i consider people who use cut off wheels to make real intricate cuts the equivalent of a carpenter who copes all his joints)when i did research i got an answer of "make sure you blow out your motor with compressed air" or "the rpm's are too high" (yet the saw's mitre saw's for metal, which arent quite chop box power, but still for metal have the same rpms). has anyone here tried it?the grand ol' opry aint so grand anymoremiller maxstar 150sworking on an oxy/acet set up
Reply:I have using a 10" cutoff wheel.  Don't do it to your DeWalt.  The grinding sparks will trash the plastic guard.  I used an old Makita for the job with a metal guard.  After going through one wheel, I've decided to just use the plasma for everything.
Reply:Before ya ruin the Dewalt, get ya a cheap chop saw from Harbor Freight.Tim Beeker.
Reply:k thanks guys the grand ol' opry aint so grand anymoremiller maxstar 150sworking on an oxy/acet set up
Reply:My first home cut off saw was a $19.99 special from a truckload sale. It wasn't square, wobbled and a typical POS but worked great!Tim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by outlawskinnydwhen i did research i got an answer of "make sure you blow out your motor with compressed air" or "the rpm's are too high" (yet the saw's mitre saw's for metal, which arent quite chop box power, but still for metal have the same rpms).
Reply:I agree with DSW. To add to what he said, I think the "names" being used in these saw discussions are being confused by some. I'm no expert, but lets try to sort this straight:"chop saw" is the type of saw, recognized by the way it operates in a "chopping" motion. Wood, metal, plastic, doesn't matter. Most wood worker will just refer to a wood cutting "chop saw" as a "chop saw" or by an older term "power miter box" referencing the hand saw cutting guide box used to cut angles or bevels in wood that was replaced by the modern electric chop saw. But this term is also applied when referencing any saw that cuts in a chopping motion, regardless of material it's designed to cut. "abrasive chop saw" is a "chop saw" that uses an abrasive "blade" consisting of abrasive grit glued and pressed to shape. Blade speed is 3000- 4000 rpm. Creates sparks and black dust and smoke when used. Really should wear a respirator and/or have good localized ventilation to evacuate breathing hazards. Mostly use a 14" dia. blade."dry cut chop saw" or "dry cut saw" is a "chop saw" that looks quite similar to an "abrasive chop saw" but uses a carbide-toothed saw blade. This saw is geared different and spins the blade at a lower rpm than an abrasive "chop saw". That material hold down clamp is usually more stout that that on an abrasive saw due to the carbide teeth not tolerating the material being cut moving in anyway. An abrasive blade is more forgiving, to a point. The carbide tooth profile on a metal cutting blade is different than that on a wood blade. The blade cuts by shaving off little curls of metal and doesn't produce the smoke or dust like that of an abrasive blade. It also cuts more accurate and cleaner than an abrasive blade due to less blade flexing. Blade spins at 1300-1500 rpm. Mostly use a 14" blade. Some smaller sizes available."cold cut chop saw" or "cold cut saw" is a "chop saw" that cuts with a high speed steel blade and uses coolant to cool the blade and the metal being cut. Rpm is usually around 50. Very accurate cuts. Mostly used in big, industrial settings."Wood chop saw" or "power miter box" or "miter saw" is a wood cutting "chop saw".  Can use a carbide tip or HHS wood cutting blade. Blades vary from 7.5 to 14". Smaller blades can spin at 6000 rpm, 10 and 12" ones at 3200- 5000 rpm. Blades rpm is determined by the material it is designed to cut. Also, rpm is affected by the diameter of the blade. Can you cut metal on a wood chop saw? Yep. Use an abrasive blade. For safety, don't exceed the blades max. RPM. Can you cut wood on an abrasive metal chop saw? Yep, probably, haven't tried it myself. Probably use a carbide tooth wood cutting blade. Probably cut poorly due to low RPM. Cut metal on an abrasive saw with a dry cut blade? No. Blade spins to slow and doesn't have enough torque to shave the previously mentioned metal curls to make the cut. Likely you'll chip or break the teeth. Cut metal on a dry cut chow saw with an abrasive blade? Yes, but SLOW! RPM's of the dry saw are half that of an abrasive chop saw. Abrasive blades cut via abrading away the material. Slow speed equals slower abrading process. So don't be in a rush! Not worth doing. Having said all that, and given that blade diameter affects max. RPM one could speculate that you could put a 7.5" steel cutting, carbide tooth, dry blade, that is rated at say 5800 RPM max. on an abrasive chop saw that runs at 4000 RPM ( if the arbor hole fits...) and it will cut. Likely won't get much depth of cut. Will torque be an issue? Is the fastest RPM abrasive saw fast enough? Inquiring minds want to know!!Given the operating perimeters of each type of "chop saw", I'd say:If you are a woody and only once in a blue moon need to cut steel, stick with a wood chop saw, and use an RPM appropriate abrasive blade.Just starting out working with metal? Just a casual hobby? Don't need machinist accurate cuts? Need a saw you can fly small diameter stock through fast? Go with an abrasive chop saw. Cheaper than "dry" or "cold saws. Just cut outside or ventilate real well and/or wear a respirator. Need very accurate cuts? Hate the smoke? Can't have sparking flying around? Got the cash to burn? Go with a dry cut saw. Blades aren't cheap but cut darn nice!Leave the liquid cooled cold chop saws for the big boys. Hope this helps clear up the different types of "chop saws" and make future discussions on "what do I get?" a little clearer.  By no means am I an expert with all machines described, but have some experience with all and have done quite a bit of reading up on each. Now.........band saws.........  Someone else can pick up on them!OP, hope this helps! BTW200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:I tried it.  You can not use toothed metal-cutting blades that aren't rated for that RPM.  Or rather, you can, but the blade will get dull in a few cuts -- and you probably don't want to be paying $10 a cut.  You can use abrasive blades with the Dewalt, except that (as others have pointed out) plastic exposed to the cutting debris may melt, and your engine bearings -- whether or not you blow them out with air -- will attract abrasive debris to the lubricant and your motor's life will be shortened.  Third problem is that wood-cutting saws don't typically have a strong vise to hold the material in place.  Kickback is a real issue with cutting any kind of metal, and your fingers will stand a better chance if you use a saw that can hold the stock firmly in position.A HF abrasive chop saw is lie $40 with a coupon.  It will cost a lot more than that to replace your Dewalt.Jack OlsenMy garage website