Ironworker advice wanted

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Howdy, this is my first post here, I'm new to this forum thing and wow, lot's of good knowledge and experience to be had. I have been welding since shop class in high school 30+ years ago, on my own stuff (contractor, wanna be farmer) and it is just necessary skill to have for all of my interests. Well not long ago I found an Edwards 50 to Jaws IX on craigslist, only a few miles from home, with a nice selection of dies.......... it came home with me for $1800 ! This has been on my dream list for many years, just couldn't justify $4k or so for a hobby shop. I do have a manual with it but I know that you guys with real world experience can give me some do's and don'ts. Several things that I wonder about are; At the main shear station can you "shave" a little if you miss your mark the first time  Is it ok to shear if your part is not long enough to come under the contact of the  hold    down?  Ok to use only a part of the punch, like punching a hole and a half? or a half of a hole in/on   the edge of a pc.? I'm sure I'll think of other's but thanks for any of your thoughts in advance.
Reply:Shaving a little is not easy to do, as the blade might want to ride off the edge, but only trial and error will tell you for sure. On our Ironworker the guide fence ends at 10 1/2 " from the blade, so I mark 10 1/2" long from my cut line and index from the fence. Try and find (or make) an index mark on your machine so you don't need to try and sight your line off the cutterShearing something that it too short for the hold-down is not a good idea, as the infeed side will rise up, and want to thrust your blades apart.The same with punching half a hole...your punch will want to walk off the edge and can damage the punch and/or die.And always, ALWAYS keep an eye on where your fingers are and where any bystanders are before you cut, punch, notch,etc. anything. Do read the manual and get real familiar with the manufacturers instructions. Oh, and grease regularly. Enjoy!
Reply:Unless you have a really large shear you should not be trimming lengths less than the thickness of the material.  It will put excessive twisting loads on the shear frame.  Punching a slot by partially punching will bend the upper die and can cause it to misalign and shatter.That being said some people will remove the center point of the punch and use it to slot.  It is not a big deal if you are punching a 5/8 diameter hole in 1/8th material and then slotting it.  The side loads build if you were to attempt to slot in 1/2 inch material.  Biggest mistake I have seen novices do is place the bottom punching die in upside down.  You will punch the first hole and the slug will jam in the die.  The hole will be very ugly.  The next one you punch will drive another slug down on top of the first slug and when there is no room the punch shatters in front of the operator.   Don't punch oversquare.  In other words don't try to punch a half inch hole in 5/8th material.   No matter what shape the machine is in .... You are a "bandit"   Good going!
Reply:I agree about the punching half holes, tool steel shattering is not a fun experience at 50tons, I know guys with scars showing just how fun it isn't. As for the shearing I would avoid shaving cause it can twist the blades and I have seen them bind up the shear and get stuck on the return stroke, It will also bend your plate if it grabs it
Reply:Make sure your dies are properly aligned for punching. I had one shatter once and it wasnt pretty. Just a tad bit more and that one inch sliver of tool steel would have went thru my jugular. It still caused alot of bleeding and panic. Read the manual and remember that shortcuts arent worth the risk.Last edited by BAR BAR 2; 05-21-2011 at 04:29 PM.Reason: typoWhatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for men. Colossians 3:23
Reply:Thanks for the input. I'm getting some time in on the machine and those were just thoughts that flew thru my head. Has anyone rigged up some kind of light that shines down (at the shear station) to project where the blade will cut? That would be something to come up with and sell. I have a (wood) chop saw that projects a red laser line where the blade hits, very fast, and accurate. I know, just get some experience boy! Thanks again.Hey, one question, what do you look for to tell if the blades on the shear are ok? Feel the blade edge? look at cut edgw of material? I don't remember seeing that in the man.
Reply:1800.00????  Dude- what a score. Could have used that much luck last year when I bought my new 5014 Scottman for a whole lot more.  But it's paid for now and no complaints, makes so many projects more efficient.  About the laser- the salesman who sold it to me really pressured me to spend the $750 for the laser shear light and while I thought I was buying a bill of goods I am truly glad to have the attachment- it makes accuracy so much easier and reliable.  The main issue is alignment- Scottsman's part comes aligned from the factory on a seperate 115V circuit- but you sound like a pretty handy guy who will figure something out- I'd say it is definitely worth some experimentation, I'd be fudging along on all the random cuts without it.  I would also reccomend requesting the Scottsman catalouge- there are some interesting gadgets they sell that are worth looking at for some reverse engineering to add to your shop.  Their punching index was way too expensive for me to consider, but with some head scratching I came up with a punch index for the 2600 3/8" holes I had to put into the the 2" X 3/8" pickets that were part of the stainless cable raiing project I bought the machine for in the first place, cause drilling those on the drill press was gonna be brutal.  My version produced very accurate results but left a lot to desire in terms of setting the stops.  Still I could knock out 1200 plus holes in an 8 our shift without mistakes so it was a good start but I plan to re-work it when I get the time so setting the stops is easier.  Have fun with your your new toy.
Reply:Hi  helping at my part time job I use a 100 ton Edwards and a 210 Peddinghouse , we cut slots and knibble on a round punch all the time ,for short stuff on the shear extend the hold down with a wedge or  short piece of stock .Watch fingers and eyes be carefull .  John