Hobart ac7018 troubles

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Having a bit of troubles. I bought a box of Hobart AC7018 for a repair job, figured I would give it a go. My machine is my oll Missing Link AC Buzzer, mild steel at around 125-135 amps. Trouble is it is giving me porous weld right at the start, then is clean, I assume anyways as I haven't ground the bead to see. I seems like to me the rod got moist. It is brand new from the box, never seen an oven at my place, normally they live on the wood stove so they will be nice and hot. I have been using regular Lincoln Excalibur and Wash Alloy 7018's with no troubles, the Excal makes one nice weld!! I am going to put them in the oven at work and let them cook a bit. Anyone have the same troubles? thanks!TOOLS AND TOYSSMAW Mid States Inc. "MISSING LINK" 10-150 AMP Buzzer circa 1945ishSMAW Magic Wand 40-60 AMP Suitcase Buzzer circa 1939ishGMAW Hobart 210 IronmanOxy-Propane TorchMany other old and cold goodies"Rusty but Trusty"
Reply:I like putting the rods on my wood stove too - start and run nice that way No experience with Hobart 7018AC rods, could you use a run-on tab? (would suck to have to all the time though)Try bumping the amps to the next tap and see if more amps cures it? (provided it's not a huge jump I suppose)On Hobart forum an ozzy posted this:"On some brands of LH electrodes there is a black oxide starter material deposited on the electrode end with the specific intention of allowing a decent first time strike on a new electrode. These electrodes need to be used in conjunction with a strike plate to avoid this defect.I have facilitated literally hundreds of weld tests and found this to be very common. Oz"Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Ya I was thinking of trying that... I have some corner fish plating I have to do, it would be easy for now to nock the start tabs off... thanks for the tip Dave!TOOLS AND TOYSSMAW Mid States Inc. "MISSING LINK" 10-150 AMP Buzzer circa 1945ishSMAW Magic Wand 40-60 AMP Suitcase Buzzer circa 1939ishGMAW Hobart 210 IronmanOxy-Propane TorchMany other old and cold goodies"Rusty but Trusty"
Reply:I don't recall the Hobart 7018AC rods having a black oxide coating or any type of coating (besides flux) on the tip for that matter.   I remember burning the Hobarts and not liking how the puddle would flow.  I was on a last minute job at the farm and ran out of my excaliburs.  Sunday and my LWS wasn't open, so I bought the Lincoln 7018ACs at my box store.  They weren't my Excaliburs, but ahhhh, so  much better than the Hobarts. "Hey I didn't come to look and learn, I came to turn and burn.... If I can't light up, I'm gonna light out!"-JodyIdealarc 250 "Fatman"MM 252MM 211 "Little boy" Victor Torches
Reply:I don't care for the Hobart AC version 7018 either. I tried a box once and preferred the Lincoln AC version a little better. I seemed to be able to see the puddle from the slag better with the Lincoln's then I got the Excaliburs and have never looked back at anything else.   I had trouble welding vertical up with Lincoln and Hobart AC, until I ran the Excaliburs.  They seemed easier for me. I saw a video on YouTube by none other than Lanse when he compared Hobart to Lincoln 7018's. In his crude (but practical for most of us hacks) BFH test, the Lincoln's 7018 beat out the Hobart 7018's.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:ok, here's the dealI probably run more AC 7018 than anyone on this board.  You've probably seen the welds, very nice welds actually.Here's the secret to 7018AC......................................Go in the lower range, 120-125amps.  You can only run it "hot" when you've mastered the required travel aspects.Progress with the bead at a very steady rate, and don't let it "cook" like you can with a DC rod.  You have to stay ahead of the puddle, don't let the rod sit for any time at all, keep moving.You'll get porosity at the high amp range, and if you leave the rod in the puddle in one spot for any time at all.  Always progress with the puddle.  You'll learn to be the best puddle reader on the planet, because it's so unforgiving.I hope this helps, because you can make the finest flat welds with an AC rod due to the arc stabilizers in the flux.  Beautiful stuff when run right.If you see a bit of porosity at the beginning of the weld, it's nothing you're doing wrong.  This stuff runs porous when you pause to let the puddle build and wet in when you start a bead.  The alternative is to start moving immediately, and have a cold start.  It's just the way it is.  It's finicky stuff.In most cases, if you grind the weld out, you'll find that the porosity you saw was actually limited to the very upper surface of the weld.  It's not a good thing, but for some things it's acceptable.  You really need to worry if the porosity extends down into the weld.It's beautiful stuff when it's running goodI have noticed that Hobart runs not too good.  Lincoln will run better.  BUT I've also noticed that the newer rods I've purchased lately seem to have more of a tendancy towards porosity.  I believe that Lincoln has let their QC go to Hell.  I've also noticed that they're outsourcing their materials when it comes to some of their consumables, notably their AC7018.  More lousy American corporate behavior."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersamm...More lousy American corporate behavior.
Reply:I have been welding since 1979 and the Hobart 7018AC rods suck, I'm not very good at being polite or politically correct. Don't waste your time with the Hobart 7018 and buy some Lincoln AC rods to burn, much better.Last fall I bought a 20 pound box of Hobart 7014 and they ran great but a few days ago I tried to weld with them and they wouldn't run at all. They were kept in an air tight container over the winter so don't think it's a moisture thing.Just my 2 cents from my experience.
Reply:Kctgb - I'm with you on hobart rods. I have some 3/32" 6013 that run fine but spatter about double from others I've used.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:You knew it was coming  Hilco Basic Super.The only thing Lincoln and Hobart are lacking is a door to door sales staff with a finance program. "Buy 50# of this shltty rod and we'll throw in this solar powered potato peeler for free ANNNND No payments for 90 daze !!!"Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:I will try drying them out a bit first, otherwise I will burn them up on some non-critical areas. Will probably try some Lincoln ac7018 next..... Burp, looked into Hilco, but is kinda hard to get up here, I would try some, am game for anything... Maybe will watch eBay see if some comes up cheap enough...TOOLS AND TOYSSMAW Mid States Inc. "MISSING LINK" 10-150 AMP Buzzer circa 1945ishSMAW Magic Wand 40-60 AMP Suitcase Buzzer circa 1939ishGMAW Hobart 210 IronmanOxy-Propane TorchMany other old and cold goodies"Rusty but Trusty"