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Best rod for inverter?

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:29:42 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
General question...I have usage of a Everlast Powerarc 140 and a lot of scrap 3/16" angle iron to play around with. So my question to the forum is what would be the best electrode to use for welding with an inverter DC welder? I am fairly decent with flux core, so I know the basics of metal preparation such as grinding the rust off and beveling the edges when joining any two pieces together, and making sure I get a good ground on my work. So with that said1. What type is easiest for a beginner to learn with? (6010, 6011, 6013, 7014, etc..) By easiest I mean striking and arc and keeping it lit without sticking to my work.2. Which type of rod would actually give better penetration, even if it's not the easiest to strike and keep an arc going?3. I'm running 110V (no 220V available,) so the machine has a 35% duty cycle at 100 amps. Will I need it that hot for 3/16 angle iron?4. Probably be using 3/32" electrodes. I'm cheap, so I figure I can get more rods per pound with 3/32 vs 1/8. Plus I don't know if this little machine can push a 1/8" rod very well.5. Most importantly, I AM NOT BUILDING ANYTHING STRUCTURAL. I will just be stacking beads on top on each other and then eventually welding pieces together if I can get the hang of stick welding.I know that's a lot of questions, but Just trying to prepare myself ahead of time.Learning to weld, one arc at a time.
Reply:7014 is about the easiest rod you’ll find to run. 6010, and 6011 will give you the most penetration.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEP7014 is about the easiest rod you’ll find to run. 6010, and 6011 will give you the most penetration.
Reply:7014 is not required to be kept in an oven. If you’re doing code work with 7018, it needs to be in an oven. 7014 is every bit as easy to run as 6013. Here a 7014 weld I made. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:6010 may not run well on that machine especially in whip and pause Small inverters typically won't run 6010 well even though it's a DC rated rod. The way the voltage is set up on small inverters it's just not designed to handle 6010. It's typically one of the compromises they make to save money. 100 amps is about in the middle range for most 3/2" rods. However many small machines on 110v power will not make max output unless you have something bigger than a 20 amp circuit. Typically to max out those machines the fine print tells you 30 amps of 110v power, not something you get typically in most homes. They also want a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Most house hold circuits have more than one outlet on them, and older homes the circuits may only be 15 amp, not 20, even for outlets. All this reduces the output your machine will put out. Drop below 80 amps output, and you may not even get 3/32" rods to work well other than 6011 that usually runs on lower amps. Add an extension cord, especially a small gauge long one, and your power available to the machine drops even more..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I would say try some of each, 6013 and 7014. I think you'll like the smoothness of 7014 better. As DSW stated , power is a definite 30 amp dedicated circuit and no extension cord for optimum output. It will work but on less however  I'm sure you'll be resetting breakers.
Reply:Avoid 6010, use 6011. Basically the same rid characteristics.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by CEP7014 is not required to be kept in an oven. If you’re doing code work with 7018, it needs to be in an oven. 7014 is every bit as easy to run as 6013. Here a 7014 weld I made.
Reply:Thanks guys. Appreciate the advise.  I guess I'll head out to Tractor Supply and buy some different types of rods. They have some 1/16" electrodes there also, but those look so little! By the way, my extension cord that I use for my Hobart Handler is one that I made. I bought 15 feet of 10 gauge wire and made my own extension cord. I don't need much, just enough to get far enough from the wall to have a little room to work.Learning to weld, one arc at a time.
Reply:7014 is my advice as well, though a little 6011 for the really nasty stuff to weld won't hurt.  Avoid tractor supply and go to your local welding distributor.  Where you live, they should have plenty distributors around.   They'll have rods that are fresher, and probably a better selection.  Shoot, mine even gives me free samples from time to time.  If you can't get there, the then Hobart at TSC will do, but you may be overpaying or not getting the freshest welding rods.  3/32" will run on that unit.  And we've improved it so that you should be able to get the 3/32 to run on 120V.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:@LugweldI only said Tractor Supply because it's about a mile from my house. The local welding shops that I know of are far enough away that I would have to fight traffic to get there. Believe me when I say that here in Houston, people plan their entire day around avoiding traffic, IT'S TERRIBLE. Seems like all 2 million people want to get on the road at the same time and all it takes is one idiot driver causing a wreck to shut down the roadway. A 15 minute drive can turn into a 1 - 1 1/2 hour nightmare.  I will get on google and try to find one that is closer. Thanks for the advice.Learning to weld, one arc at a time.
Reply:6011 would be the best for a begginner to  first learn w/
Reply:Originally Posted by 123weld6011 would be the best for a begginner to  first learn w/
Reply:We're kind of in the woods here. No place local sells 7014. I did a fair amount with 6013. Locally, more often I used 1109. It worked well with more spatter, and a bit more texture in the weld bead. Later I learned they were working from bulk volumes of 6011, reading from the stick upside down. Very thin stuff I'd now use 6013. It deliberately avoids deep penetration.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:everyones elses answer was right also, because he was asking whats easiest, along w/ whats best for the machine, along w/ what to learn w/? , naturally multiple answers
Reply:Here's what I found:Tractor Supply has pretty good prices. Hobart 6013 and 7014 29.99 for 10lbs.  Northern has them for 24.99 for 10 lbs.  BUT I will definitely visit my local shop. I believe in keeping those guys in business so that they can be there to help with any problems or questions you have. I do the same for my local gun shops instead of Bud's.Hobart's website http://www.hobartbrothers.com/produc...lectrodes.html has the range for 3/32" 6013 at 40-80 amps with 70 being the sweet spot, and 3/32" 7014 at 70-90 amps with 80 being the sweet spot. So the Powerarc 140 should run it off of 110V (hopefully).Welding forums aren't very different than gun forums. There are very knowledgeable people on here that don't mind sharing, and everyone has a favorite. (I'm a Glock man myself)I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I guess it's time to "poop or get off the pot" and go out and buy some rods and start making some sparks!Thanks guys!Learning to weld, one arc at a time.
Reply:Originally Posted by 12V71Yep, get the white coated 6011C. It runs the best because of the extra arc stabilizers they add for the low ocv buzzboxes. ...
Reply:Originally Posted by 12V71Yep, get the white coated 6011C. It runs the best because of the extra arc stabilizers they add for the low ocv buzzboxes. Really smooth on dc. I use quite a bit of the stuff fixing rusty galvanized irrigation equipment.
Reply:I've been playing around with 6013 and 7014 rods and I like them.  Of course it's only been one day of playing around but I'm liking the Powerarc. I borrowed it from a coworker to see if stick welding appealed to me or not, and guess what, I like it!I'm thinking about ordering one of my own so that I can play around with more stick welding. My question is (and I know this has been asked a thousand times)....   How many problems have you guys had with the Everlast Powerarc 140?  I realize that all machines have problems, but is the Everlast any more prone to problems that the others?I can't afford a Miller, and the guys on craigslist here in Houston ask more for their machines than the cost of new machines. Bunch of greedy sob's. I definitely want a dc inverter. Why? I like the size and portability of them. Won't be building a trailer with it. I grew up in a farming community and if I really won't to build something big once I learn to stick weld, just about all of my dad's neighbors have those big engine driven Lincoln's or the 220/440 machines sitting in their barns to work on their tractors, combines, harvesters, etc. And the advantage of growing up in a small town is that folks are still friendly and don't mind letting you use their stuff as long as you take care of it. It's ether going to be the Everlast or I might get the Century Inverter Arc 120.  I don't particularly like the short cords on the Everlast. I think the Century ones are almost twice as long.Is their anything I should wary of before buying the Everlast or Century?Learning to weld, one arc at a time.
Reply:I’ve had my Everlast PowerArc 200 for over 6-years now. Not one problem with it. UPS tried their best to kill it before I got it. All the plastic feet were crushed! I’ve had my PowerArc 300 for almost a year, again no problems with it either. Want do you mean by short cords on the Everlast? Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:My Powerarc 140 was bought earlier this year.  I'm always playing with that thing on 220V.  Nothing negative to report so far.  About to try tig on it...possibly tonight even.  It really is a Miller Maxstar 150 with a paint job to me.  The local pawn shop has a Maxstar 150 that looks like it was beat up by a gang.  I was looking at it and was amazed how similar the $265 shipped Powerarc 140 looked to the $1000+ Miller.
Reply:Thanks guys. I guess I'll order one off their website later this week.Learning to weld, one arc at a time.
Reply:I know your question was about the Everlast welder, but for a very nice inverter, check out the ESAB MiniArc 161 LTS as well.  Quality machine, dual voltage 110/220, max DC output w/220VAC is 160 amps.  It will run 6010 if you're ever of a mind to use them.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumIs that the old Airco Easyarc which is now Lincoln Electric/Murex?  Heard it was good.
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