|
|
I am comtemplating getting one of these in the near future. I have been researching tig/stick combos for myself for a while and this is the first I have seen. I have heard good things about other invertecs, but nothing about these 155's. So, does anyone have any experience with these? Thanks.-Greg
Reply:Forgot the link to the ebay ad:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ksid=p3907.m29And I plan to use it to learn how to tig as well as some heavier stick welding. I figure with this and 110v mig/flux, I can do just about anything I need, light sheetmetal work on my trucks to frame work to fine quality stuff.Last edited by Gravy; 03-06-2008 at 08:06 PM.
Reply:No exp, it looks like a nice little machine. Do you have 220? I see 100 amps stick @ 34 amps input on 110 Volts. Good luck finding 34 amps @ 110v. 145 amps max stick which will just barely run 1/8" rod.I wouldn't think its good for heavier stick welding.Looks like a nice machine for the $.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:145 amps will barely run 1/8" rod??? What's your foundation for this judgement?David, I routinely run 1/8" 7018 at 90-110 amps for out of position pipe welding. 6010 1/8" runs just fine at 75-95 amps.I've even run 5/32" electrodes at 125-145 amps with good results... Originally Posted by David RNo exp, it looks like a nice little machine. Do you have 220? I see 100 amps stick @ 34 amps input on 110 Volts. Good luck finding 34 amps @ 110v. 145 amps max stick which will just barely run 1/8" rod.I wouldn't think its good for heavier stick welding.Looks like a nice machine for the $.David
Reply:David could be making that statement on the duty cycle. It's only rated @ 30% at which it lists 100A on 120V and 145A on 230V. Sure, it could run them, but I'd be throwing stuff before I got much done at those numbers.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:I have seen a 180 havent seen any larger version... maybe there is one out there... switching tech is good and light...Unit in my fab shop dept:my good hand and team that trust me...A lone welder make art... a village full of welder make Miracles...
Reply:Fair enough, I see where you're coming from olddad. Even I could outpace a 30% duty cycle. Still, for a hobbyist, this might be just fine.The issue with duty cycle is a seperate problem from the amperage required to properly burn a given electrode and make a sound weld. Setup on a 230V circuit, and running 1/8th" 7018 rod at 100 amps, the duty cycle rises to something approaching 45%. This isn't good enough for production welding or a professional who's on a mission.But it's probably not an issue for smaller projects with lots of setup and preparation before making each weld. You know, measure the parts again, check the clamps and alignment, find a rod that hasn't been bent or stripped of flux in the bottom of the toolbox, smoke a cigarette and/or drink a beer, scratch, go inside and take a piss, then come back to make the next weld...Depending on how you intend to use the equipment, you may be fine with an Invertec V-155, so long as you keep all these limitations in mind. Originally Posted by olddadDavid could be making that statement on the duty cycle. It's only rated @ 30% at which it lists 100A on 120V and 145A on 230V. Sure, it could run them, but I'd be throwing stuff before I got much done at those numbers.
Reply:1/8 7018 at 100 amps...you must be welding 12 ga.material?.... i never weld near that with 7018 1/8..more like 120 to 130 (but i weld mostly structural)
Reply:Originally Posted by GravySnip... as well as some heavier stick welding. ...Snip.
Reply:First off, apologies to the author for hyjacking this thread...that saidDavid R, if you don't mind my asking, where do those amperage figures come from? A dial setting on your rig or a digital amp meter?The reason I ask is because your amperage values seemed awefully high to me. Then I dug out my procedure for welding single V-groove butt joints, in 1" thick plate, in the vertical position.Root - 1/8" 6010 65-130 ampsHot Pass - 3/32" 7018 80-100 ampsFill & Cover - 1/8" 7018 90-150 amps or 5/32" 7018 110 - 230 ampsI guess we're both in the ranges I was taught to use. I'm just wrestling with the idea that you need that much amperage to weld this type of joint. Do you worry about distortion more with the added heat input? I'm thinking back on when I was doing this type of welding several months ago. It seems to me that the machine I was using had 'hot start' to briefly boost the amperage when an arc was struck. Do you run at the higher amperage because you have smoother starts?To bring this posting back on track, I still say you could use this machine to run these larger diameter electrodes. Just so long as you're not in a big hurry to do so. Originally Posted by David RMy idea of heavier stick welding is 1/2" plate and up. I run 1/8" 7018 at 140-150 give or take a few. Out of position, vertical up, 120, overhead 130.Yes for a hobbyist it should be fine. If you get it, let us know how it works.David
Reply:This thread seems proof of the many different methods of killing the same beast. I'm with David on this one though, I run 1/8" 7018 at 125 - 135 depending on position and application. I didn't really have any idea what I was running at until just a few years ago when I used my first digital meters. Up until that point it had just been no meters or the old analog which are generally worthless. I want the stick burning in, fluid, I never was comfortable running on the low side. When I have had to run lower I always related it to caulking...not welding...just don't like it. If my heat range was too hot for a particular weldment I'd either grab a smaller rod or grab a mig. On thick to thin I never weld on the thin, I just run a normal bead and the puddle "wets" the thin in, same as with a mig. It's all just what we've learned over the years and as long as it's with-in specs it's all good.As to the original post, that machine would be a waste of money for me. I do know a few guys however that would be satisfied with that machine.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doFirst off, apologies to the author for hyjacking this thread...that saidDavid R, if you don't mind my asking, where do those amperage figures come from? A dial setting on your rig or a digital amp meter?The reason I ask is because your amperage values seemed awefully high to me. Then I dug out my procedure for welding single V-groove butt joints, in 1" thick plate, in the vertical position.Root - 1/8" 6010 65-130 ampsHot Pass - 3/32" 7018 80-100 ampsFill & Cover - 1/8" 7018 90-150 amps or 5/32" 7018 110 - 230 amps...snip...
Reply:Besides all the debate on where to weld 1/8 electrode, I'd like to put my two cents in on the Invertec V155-S. This is designed for the hobbyist - casual welder. It's a "commercial" machine rather than an "industrial" machine. If you're looking for something heavy duty for every day use, I'd go with the Invertec V160-S. That being said, for the price, the V155-S is a great deal and I'd like to have one for my home garage. I've used it quite a bit on both 110V and 220V (the auto-reconnect is great - just make up a little adapter with a 20amp female 115V and 220V male). I must say though, that if you do want to run 1/8, I would use it on 220V. A 20 amp breaker tends to pop readily if you weld hot (130mps+). The DC TIG with the lift start is super sweet. That's what I really like about this machine - it has an awesome arc for DC TIG. again - at the price - it's a steal. If you want something more industrial - go with the V160-S |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 22:29:30