What to buy?

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I’m looking for opinions and suggestions on the most versatile mill cutters.Right now I work doing maintenance and repair work in a Rec Center. It is a large facility and I do maintenance and repair work on everything big and small from our refrigeration plant to the locks on the doors. Our department also looks after two dozen other buildings in the town.We just purchased the RF-31 milling machine from Acklands – Granger.  This was largely due to bureaucracy.  It seems as though setting up a new account to buy a milling machine from someone else (Travers.com, Grizzly.com, etc.) wasn't an option – nor was buying anything used.Just happy to have a milling machine and I’m looking forward to learning out how to use it.  Right now I’m working my way through the Darrell Holland Milling machine DVD series.Already have a milling vise on its way.  As well as some T bolts for attaching it to the table.  Next I need buy all the tooling and mill cutters.  Since I’m not using it for a lot of fab work it is hard to know what I’ll need beforehand.  So, the question is what to buy? Would I love hear your thoughts on the most versatile milling bits.   The milling machine will mainly be used for a lot of random projects.  To get started I’d like to get it setup to be able to end mill and slot drill.Even though Travers.com and Grizzly.com have much more selection.  Once again, (do to bureaucracy) I’m pretty well stuck ordering everything from www.AcklandsGrainger.ca The prices on their website isn’t what we pay – we get a large discount off the prices listed.My budget is $1,000 for everything.  Largely due to the crazy way the budget works I need to order everything in the next week . . . because if the money isn't spent I'll loose it and it will be used for something else.  Once the money is gone I’m not likely to see any more.Thanks for the help,-JeffMiller Dynasty 200-DX   :   Lincoln SP-180C   :   Cutmaster 52 Plasma  :  O/A Torches   :   Rung Fu RF-31
Reply:That's a mill drill right?  Don't know what kind of vise you have on the way, but if  it's cheap, that's a bad start. I'd get a decent 5"-6" milling vise. A Kurt,even used, might be too much. Glacern make a decent vise for around $300.  But a hold down kit(t slot nuts, step blocks and strap clamps) that fit the t-slots in the mill table (they are probably 1/2" or 5/8". A machinist's square, a set of 1-2-3 blocks, an edge finder, a dial test indicator are all basic items for set ups. Later on, maybe a rotary table(8"-10"), tool makers vise, sine plate are not necessary but helpful depending upon what you are trying to do. If you are doing more milling than drilling, you can get buy with less. Good Luck
Reply:X2 on the rotary table esp. If you don't have a latheTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:A full set of drills in 1/32" increments thru 1/2" at a minimum, ( or metrics since you are a canuck.) I'd add 7/16", 5/8", 3/4", and 1" to the mix as well, and a full set of letter and numbered drills. These can be quite useful if you want to drill and tap holes in various sizes. A fly cutter set with bits is useful if you want to notch tube or surface materials..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:115 pc cobart drill index, misc endmills from 1/4"-1/2", drill chuck and arbor.. a couple of center drills.. 2inch square shoulder face mill & arbor also inserts to fit the face mill, various taps 1/4-20,5/16-18,3/8-16,1/2-13,5/8-11, set of R8 collets and collet rack...  indicol and indicator, edgefinder, bottle of dykem (layout ink), combination square set, carbide tipped scribe. later on i would try to talk them into purchasing readouts for it..Last edited by brucer; 08-19-2011 at 10:05 PM.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:also add 17/32 drill, 21/32 drill, and 25/32 drills.. these are clearance drills for 1/2,5/8 and 3/4 bolts.. i like spending other people money.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Morse, Garr, OSG, Nachi, all are high quality manufacturers of tooling.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:NIAGARA  CUTTERS   . 4 flute   roughers      3/16 ,1/4  ,5/16 ,3/8 , 7/16 ,1/2,9/16, 3/4 ,1"   .   them  cutters  right there   will   75%   of the   cutting   u need     , frome shapeing  to  cutting key ways  to  rough surfacing.  alot  of the roughers  are not ment for plung cutting  ..  so drill pilot holes as needed ...                                    ..  ebay   is ur friend   for   highly  discounted  cutters  and tooling ,  awesome deals .     maybe  work can refund  u  for what u buy on ebay?Last edited by Thiel-Metal-Fab; 08-21-2011 at 03:47 PM.>Innovations are what i leave behind for History
Reply:I'm just having a hard time to understand why you would need a milling machine to do manintennance for an arena.  Sharpening the blades on the zamboni perhaps?"The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Originally Posted by Thiel-Metal-FabNIAGARA  CUTTERS   . 4 flute   roughers      3/16 ,1/4  ,5/16 ,3/8 , 7/16 ,1/2,9/16, 3/4 ,1"   .   them  cutters  right there   will   75%   of the   cutting   u need     , frome shapeing  to  cutting key ways  to  rough surfacing.  alot  of the roughers  are not ment for plung cutting  ..  so drill pilot holes as needed ...                                    ..  ebay   is ur friend   for   highly  discounted  cutters  and tooling ,  awesome deals .     maybe  work can refund  u  for what u buy on ebay?
Reply:Guess I should have listed what I already have:Four vernier calipers (two are digital)Carbide tipped scribesInside, Outside and Straight devidersFour small machineist squaresCombination squareWalter SST+ Drill bits ranging from:  1/16" to 1/2" by 64ths  &  1/2" to 1" by 16thsSince I have to order this stuff from Acklands-Grainger the brands I have to choose from for the mills are:Clarkson-OsbornClevelandGreenfield IndustriesBassettMetal Removal (Kennmetal)To Buy List:R8 Collets & Collet Rack4 Flute Roughers 3/16 ,1/4 ,5/16 ,3/8 , 7/16 ,1/2,9/16, 3/4 ,1"2 Flute Endmills from 1/4"-1/2"Centre Drills from 1/32"- 5/16"Letter and Numbered drillsIndicol & Dial test indicatorAn edge finderLayout inkSet of 1-2-3 blocksSet of parallelsMaybe ($ dependant):X2 Rotary table (8"-10")Sine PlateAm I missing anything vital?Last edited by JeffThom; 08-22-2011 at 09:56 PM.Miller Dynasty 200-DX   :   Lincoln SP-180C   :   Cutmaster 52 Plasma  :  O/A Torches   :   Rung Fu RF-31
Reply:Your list is pretty good.You will find that, especially with that small of a machine, about 90% of your milling will be done with the 3/8" size R8 collet, and 3/8" shank mills ranging in size from 1/4" to maybe 1/2". The mill you have just isnt rigid enough or large enough to mill very well with a 5/8" or 3/4" end mill.You want to get a drill chuck, preferably a keyless zero- 1/2" size, and an adapter to make it fit the R8 spindle. You will sure not want to use regular end mill collets for drill bits.I would recommend looking into carbide annular cutters for larger size holes- like the ones Jancy or Hougen make for mag drills. Again, your machine just doesnt have the mass or the horsepower to turn 3/4" or 1" silver and deming drills very well- you will be much happier using an annular cutter. They are pricey, and need to be babied, as in, dont let the gorillas use em- but properly lubed, they will last a long time, and cut big holes, up to 2" or so, better than any other system in your mill.I also tend to use ball end mills a fair amount, but more for ornamental stuff.
Reply:Thanks a lot for the comments.  That really helps knowing that my mill isn't rigid or large enough to use bigger end mills.  The carbide annular cutters might have to go on my 'Maybe' list.It came with a drill chuck - however it is a pretty cheep on.  Will likely pickup a Jacobs keyless chuck.Miller Dynasty 200-DX   :   Lincoln SP-180C   :   Cutmaster 52 Plasma  :  O/A Torches   :   Rung Fu RF-31
Reply:Hi, don't expect too much from the milldrill, at best they just drill holes but for milling they are just too light in the column to resist the side forces of the miling cutter.You will find that if'n you are too close to the job when using it, when you raise the head up the column you will lose register as the head moves round the column....there being no means to keep the head square when raising or lowering the head, so give yourself plenty of room to remove tools especially drills etc.A 4" milling vice will be all that you need, anything bigger will be overkill for the mills capability.You'll need, as in MUST HAVE, a set of parallels, the 1/8' wide ones in various widths, come in sets in a wooden or plastic box on Ebay.You'll also want to get a 1/2" capacity keyless chuck with R8 shank.For measuring you'll need a 0" - 1" micrometer, and a 6" and 12" ruleTo gauge bores get a few telescopic gauges....they come in sets and up to 3" bore size will do all you need.....more later if'n you get bigger work, but then you'll also need micrometers up to 3" to check them.A mallet with hard and soft insert pads for setting work in the vice.Oh, and a litre of soluble oil for making up coolant....mixes with water....sprayed on the work when drilling with a 1 litre squeezy plastic bottle..... coolant when made up is stored in a 1 gallon plastic container.A 2" paint brush for wiping the swarf away.A slitting saw arbor with R8 shank......avoid parallel slitting saw shanks....they will rotate under force in R8 collets.And lastly....a good strong tool box with padlock to keep the stuff in....LOL.BTW, you'll only need a couple of R8 collets to hold the endmills and slot drills up to 5/8" shank size.... about 5 collets in all....1/8"...1/4"....3/8"..1/2'....5/8".....avoid buying a set of all sizes for drilling as you will use your drill chuck to hold the various drill sizes... not R8 collets which are a pain to have to screw in and out for drilling.If'n the mill doesn't come with a light, you might want to get one of those low voltage (12 volt LED) spot lights that attaches to the side of the mill body with a magnet.Before you indulge in a rotary table, a 6" angle plate is a must...the adjustable angle type are a luxury.A supply of 3/8" square HSS tool bits for making fly cutters are also needed......and don't forget the 6" double ended bench grinder for sharpening your drills etc.Avoid carbide endmills and slot drills....the mill's capability just won't be able to justify the extra cost.. Ian.
Reply:If the mill drill you have is the small round column mill, I highly doubt a rotary table 8-10" is going to leave any room under the spindle. You are already limiteddue to size, but slap a rotab that sits 3" high (before adding work to surface) and you have run outta room.http://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:you could easily spend that on tooling you need to see what your doing first and than slowly buy what you need