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How to cut a Railway track down the middle?

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:27:22 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Any ideas on the best way to cut a piece of railway track in half?  I plan on making a couple of coat racks by splitting a railway track down the middle and then welding on about 3 inches of a railway spike to service the hook (see picture for the basic idea).That'll give me a flat surface to mount against the wall while still keeping the look of it being a railway track.  However it will be flipped upside down so that it'll have a shelf above the hooks for holding keys, wallets, gloves, or whenever.The piece of track that I picked up was about 6 feet in length and I cut it into three sections using my plasma cutter (Thermal Dynamics CutMaster 52) and a set of oxy-acetylene torches.  I don't have a bandsaw; Just a Rigid 14" chop saw - not much good for this project.  Originally I was planning on cutting the track in half using the torches and plasma cutter and then just grinding everything smoothed . . . but that would be a hell of a lot of grinding. Does anyone have any better ideas?  How likely am I to find the shop with a bandsaw big enough to do a 2 foot wide cut through the middle of a railway track?  And if I work to I find such a shop when you think they would charge (ballpark) for that kind of cut?Likely end up welding on five or six hooks - per rack . . .  Think (hope) they will look pretty cool when they're all done.I'll post some pictures of the finished product . . . tho it may be quite a while as I've go a lot of other projects on the go.-Jeff
Reply:this would probably work.. seriously, how the heck are you going to anchor that to the wall? Attached ImagesESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:Have you considered having the back machined flat in a milling machine?
Reply:lol. Don't have one of those either. Do you have one I can borrow?Thinking that I'm going to anchor it to the wall using lag bolts.  Well first learning how to weld I spent a couple months working part-time in a welding shop.  While there I picked up a great little trick for making lag bolts look cool.  You just take the lag bolt and put it into a vice.  Then weld a nice big puddle onto the top of the head and it is still glowing red hot hammer the top of it until you got a nice looking rough texture to it.  Of course, being careful not to remove the edges from the sides of the bolt so that you can still get a wrench onto it.  Wish I had a picture to show you . . . it gives a kind of a medieval look.
Reply:Just torch cut the top and bottom flange in one plane, don't cut in to the web.
Reply:That was my original plan.  Only I'm thinking it would be better to I can get the back side completely flat so that I can tighten it right to the drywall.  Tho, I guess if it will be against two studs and if I'm real careful tightening the lag bolts then I would likely be able to get a solid hold on the wall without punching the drywall.Plan on building at lease three of these.  Would love to take them some were and have them cut if it isn't going to cost too much.  But maybe I should just go a head and start cutting . . . maybe all that grinding won't take as long as I'm dreading . . .Miller Dynasty 200-DX   :   Lincoln SP-180C   :   Cutmaster 52 Plasma  :  O/A Torches   :   Rung Fu RF-31
Reply:Waterjet with taper control.  Find a shop that has one and they should be able to give you a quote based on the material, cut thickness, and cut length.
Reply:Have you considered a piece of wood that is disguised to "look" like a piece of rail? Should be pretty easy to do with a draw knife and some dimensioned lumber and would be a whole lot easier on the wall. That piece of rail is worth a small fortune to the home forge crowd for an anvil.ThurmondMiller Bobcat 3 Phase,26 series gas cooled TIG torchMiller Suitcase X-Treme 12VS17 Series Tig Torch for Solar Panel Powered WeldingOxy/Acetylene Torch rigEVERLAST PowerUltra 205P
Reply:Any shop that deals with big structural iron (bridges/beams/ect) will have a large vertical bandsaw that should do the trick.  You might have to get creative to clamp it in place, and flip it half way through depending on the depth of the saws throat but it will work.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by BlauSchuhthis would probably work.. seriously, how the heck are you going to anchor that to the wall?
Reply:Oxy fuel would be my choice. If it was me, I'd take it over to a buddies shop and set it up on his track torch, or use the one at the tech school in a few weeks after the semester starts. I'd make 2 cuts as someone else suggested and leave the main web alone. You can make beautiful cuts taht require almost zero grinding if you get the settings right. Even close would probably be good enough.Barring that, I'd go at it with my hand torch and a good straight edge set up so I  only have to worry about travel speed. I'd probably preheat the pisz out of it with the big propane torch to get everything up to temp 1st if I had to do it that way..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:A line-burner, or in this case the most appropriately named,  track-cutter, or a powered guided torch would do it. It may take some finesse to get things aligned accurately and the burn started so that washing out at the side of the web won't be a problem, but I think it could be done... and while ending  up with two usable halfs too.  I know, you don't have track-torch. So head over here to see reply #49 and other ideas:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=25754&page=2Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 08-18-2011 at 10:20 PM.
Reply:The RR track that I've messed with has all had little hard spots in it. Drill four holes, one will hit a spot that'll destroy a bit. I'd have to wonder how a band saw cut would work out."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Originally Posted by dumb as a stumpNot everyone will get that reference you know just the nerds( I do)
Reply:Originally Posted by BlauSchuhthis would probably work.. seriously, how the heck are you going to anchor that to the wall?
Reply:You're going to warp the piss out of it.  If you really like that look, you should consider faking it.  Some sheet could be bent to the profile you want.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I don't think it'd warp very much.Short lengths, very high carbon steel, a narrow web that won't need much heat input  and a heavy head and wide flange will all help to combat warping.Although again, I will say that alignment is going to be tricky. Especially since at least some warping and expansion will take place and that will tend to shift the work during cuts.C'mon JeffThom, go for it.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 08-18-2011 at 10:33 PM.
Reply:40' steel planer might be best bet. Where to find one............
Reply:Originally Posted by TritiumEven my 81 year old mother knows what the "Death Star" is.Thurmond
Reply:Track / line torch - brilliant!!That would give a much cleaner cut them my hand cut even with a strait edge setup.Especially considering I don't really use the O/A torches much . . . my plasma cutter works for pretty well everything - except this.denrep: thanks for that link to the the other forum post.  Those pictures in post #49 are great and the video in post #46 was also quite helpful http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=25754&page=2I've got the Straight Line Cutting Guide for the plasma cutter . . . maybe I'll try and adapt it to the O/A torches.Worst case is I scrap a one of my pieces of rail that was free to begin with . . . and more is only a short drive a way.  Biggest pain was finding a piece small enough to fit into the back of my VW wagon.If it does't work out I'll just start calling around for the other two.  Not likely that I'll have many other uses for building a track cutter since the plasma will cut 1/2 inch like butter and this has been the first time I've cut anything over 1/2" thick.Off to the shop . . .Miller Dynasty 200-DX   :   Lincoln SP-180C   :   Cutmaster 52 Plasma  :  O/A Torches   :   Rung Fu RF-31
Reply:A track "torch" will work with plasma also. All you really are doing is setting your travel speed to the correct speed for best cut quality, and engaging the torch. The buggy won't care if it's carrying an OA torch or your plasma..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:here is the best solution for your problem but it will cost you some gas money weld a chain to one end next tie to the ball on your pick up truck and drive 200 miles stop check it if to desired cut if not repeat the process 2-3 time .... be safe and good luck lolLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:DOT grinder!Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:I was thinking a vertical bandsaw.  That way you're only cutting through the thickness of the height at one time.  Set up the fence and just push the rail along the fence as you cut.  It's still going to take a long time to cut.  I've also seen old wood tables saws setup with an abrasive blade.  Works great for small brackets, etc.  You get to use the fence and miter gauge.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Here's my thoughts...Torch cut is likely to blow out in the web area.Band saw would be slow and hard on the blade.  As mentioned, a rail is not mild steel. This is not a job for a plasma cutter (assuming you want to cut it down the middle). If it were mine, I'd put it on the waterjet and let it go.  Not going to be a "cheap" cut.I guess I still haven't quite grasped why anyone would want to use a railroad rail and spikes for a "coat rack".Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.If you use any kind of a saw or abrasive, just know that once you start the cut you better not stop.  Im not sure if all rail is like this but I would assume so...the people I know who cut rail for a living say the rail hardens so much from the cut that if the stop mid cut, you're pretty much done.  Let us know what you come up with and share a picture
Reply:Originally Posted by assassin_workshere is the best solution for your problem but it will cost you some gas money weld a chain to one end next tie to the ball on your pick up truck and drive 200 miles stop check it if to desired cut if not repeat the process 2-3 time .... be safe and good luck lol
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauIf you read post # 20 he said he only has a VW Wagon, not a pick up truck. The V-Dub might not have the power to PULL this off as you described.The light saber suggestion is probably the best option, but that is going to require going thru all the Jedi Knight training before he can build one for himself, unless he already knows a Jedi Knight that may do it for him. May the force be with you on this quest.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauIf you read post # 20 he said he only has a VW Wagon, not a pick up truck. The V-Dub might not have the power to PULL this off as you described.The light saber suggestion is probably the best option, but that is going to require going thru all the Jedi Knight training before he can build one for himself, unless he already knows a Jedi Knight that may do it for him. May the force be with you on this quest.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIHere's my thoughts...If it were mine, I'd put it on the waterjet and let it go.  Not going to be a "cheap" cut.I guess I still haven't quite grasped why anyone would want to use a railroad rail and spikes for a "coat rack".
Reply:boring mill or bridgeport and about a  3 inch facemill..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:$800Sounds about right.You don't work a $1,000,000 machine for peanuts.BTW:  Couldn't help but notice it, what with the big blob flashing, but has anyone ever heard of a RIDGIT 14" chop saw?  Figured that maybe Assassin has a one of a kind there.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by AndyADOT grinder!
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIII$800Sounds about right.You don't work a $1,000,000 machine for peanuts.BTW:  Couldn't help but notice it, what with the big blob flashing, but has anyone ever heard of a RIDGIT 14" chop saw?  Figured that maybe Assassin has a one of a kind there.
Reply:Dude, just fix the spelling in your sig...My name's not Jim....
Reply:Cut it into the wall. Job done.
Reply:Sundown, looks like jr is loosing it.  Assassin, you need to thicken your skin alittle.  What mild treatment you have had here is nothing like the real world of any trade.Be glad you aren't in a plumbing/electrical trade tit for tat.  Now they cross the line just getting outa bed.
Reply:Slip into your NEW buddies shop (the head guy you are going to hunt down {not that kind of head - engine block/head} and buy a beer) and throw it on the surface grinder.  Might take a few nights and he may notice his wheel shrinking a tad but you would get a nice smooth finish and with most of them being flow cooled you won't have to worry about work hardening.  Of course if you get caught your new buddy may become your new plaintiff.When any government, or any church for that matter, undertakes to say to its subjects, "This you may not read, this you must not see, this you are forbidden to know," the end result is tyranny and oppression, no matter how holy the motives.
Reply:I would cut it with an O/A and then grind it flat with a surfacing cup stone. Attached Images
Reply:Track torch  with big tip.. I suggest propane because it is cleaner maybe 40 or 50 psi oxy.  To stop distortion,  pierce about one inch from end and cut about 18 inches, stop, pierce an inch ahead then continue.  let the whole thing cool before finishing the cut.... you may still have to shrink it straight after but it will not be as bad as a full cut.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott YoungSundown, looks like jr is loosing it.  Assassin, you need to thicken your skin alittle.  What mild treatment you have had here is nothing like the real world of any trade.Be glad you aren't in a plumbing/electrical trade tit for tat.  Now they cross the line just getting outa bed.
Reply:Originally Posted by assassin_worksive been in the rough neck and pipe line ,line of work since i got out of school "UTI" i learned one thing dont give a f#@$ about age , rank,  get mouthy your going to get you as$kicked hes lucky he aint in texas cause i would love to kick his door down and drag him down to the middle of the street and kick the **** out of him lol
Reply:Trash talk is  a time honored tradition in any trade, the internet has given us a far wider base to bless with this particular aspect of our craft.  That being said, there is a certain amount of candor or discretion that should be applied - most particularly on v Bulletin systems where nothing ever really disappears.Everyone is entitled to say their piece and I generally could care less either way.  Originally Posted by assassin_worksive been in the rough neck and pipe line ,line of work since i got out of school "UTI" i learned one thing dont give a f#@$ about age , rank,  get mouthy your going to get you as$kicked hes lucky he aint in texas cause i would love to kick his door down and drag him down to the middle of the street and kick the **** out of him lol
Reply:C'mon man.Y'all are gonna crash a good thread and get it locked up with all  this skoolgirl talk.We all know that huff'n and puff'n doesn't mean squat. We've all seen or heard of the 90lb 4'6" meek talkin' little "Lepricon" who could knock the **** out of a big-mouth "Bruiser" at 6"6" and 250. So until someone posts a picture of their airline ticket to the fight, it's all BS.However, none of us have probably ever seen a steel rail split down its web, so to most of us at least, that would be much more interesting to follow than all the other garbage. If you must carry on, go start a fight thread in Off-Topic.Now if we could re-rail this thread that'd be great.----------The real trick here would be a cut that saves both halves.Probably  a carefully guided pass with a band-saw would be the most workable.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 08-20-2011 at 02:34 PM.
Reply:Remember now that that flange is going to have a thin section of about 3/4". That'll make this about like ripping a piece of 3/4" by 6" or 8" on edge. Pretty tricky with any torch, gas or plazma. "The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Top of that track is seriously work hardened from the wheels rolling over it. Going to need a very good blade to cut it. Could be a good idea to make a nice big fire and anneal the piece before cutting. May even relieve some of the stress from the work hardening. I could prob cut it with my Roll In bandsaw, in a few steps.
Reply:Its free? Why try and make two halves. Torch the top and bottom off on one side, Weld a piece of plate on and grind welds smooth. Now you have a smooth back without alot of work. This thing will be really heavy. Make sure to use good lag bolts so some poor ol' lady doesn't go to hang her coat and end up with a hundred pound hunk of steel on top of her.Millermatic 252Lincoln 175 plusTA 185tswTA 161stlhypertherm pmax 45Victor torchHenrob torchAn S10 for each day of the week
Reply:I would just use a hand held O/A torch, and cut it the way you want it, leaving the web in the middle intact. Then just go at it with a 7 inch angle grinder, and get it smooth in no time. Just sandblast, paint, and make sure it doesnt fall off the well.Deereman75 from TBNLincoln electric AC225SBlueshield O/A torchSmiths aircraft torchCH 3HP 220V air compressorlots of power toolslongevity stickweld 250
Reply:Originally Posted by JeffThomDoes anyone have any better ideas?-Jeff
Reply:Originally Posted by Shox DrLike a I said Chop it into the wall
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