Weldanpower AC/DC issues!

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Hi all!New to this group and welding in general.Got this problem...I got this Lincoln Weldenpower AC/DC AC-225/DC-210/6 from my father-in-law that I want to repair.Info:Code no: 9175Serial: A1090237Onan engine.The problem:I get a reading of about 20v at the 115v socket and about 40v at the 230 socket.Across the brushes I get 2v.I've tested all the diodes and the caps, look good.Think it might be the voltage regulator but don't know exactly how to test it.Could someone help me out?
Reply:Check the ground and see if the AC power plug is connected to the circuit correctly.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:The fine control has to be turned all the way up for AC output.Try it again.  Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:David R beat me to it.  What he said.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Thanks for the replys, i'll check that out tomorrow and post what i find.Here are some pictures of the beast...
Reply:Originally Posted by MrClean...The problem:...Across the brushes I get 2v.I've tested all the diodes and the caps, look good....
Reply:My ranger eight did the very same thing and it happened to have a loose wire on the AC 115 volt outlets that ran through the circuit board first to detect power flow.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:________________________________________Took a while to get back to the garageI removed the 115v receptacles cleaned the connectors and then replaced them (Pretty beat up)The fine tune was set to 10.Still get the same results, I even bridged the fine control to see if that made a difference with still no change.How do you check the ground on the circuit?What else could i try?Last edited by MrClean; 12-06-2008 at 08:44 PM.Reason: Missed spelled word
Reply:Do you have the manual?  You can get it here http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM308.pdf to help trace and troubleshoot the control circuits.Check out page 12 of the manual (pg14 of the .pdf file).  Covers everything that should lead you to the problem.Last edited by duaneb55; 12-06-2008 at 08:54 PM.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Yes, I have the manual and the wiring diagram.The manual states "Voltage between the two brushes should be 32-45 volts when the output control knob is set at (10)"Why is mine 4v?I get 14.5v off of the voltage regulator, is this the correct voltage?The regulator has 15v stamped on it so I’m guessing this is correct.Don't understand where the 32-45 volts comes from Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Reply:Originally Posted by MrCleanYes, I have the manual and the wiring diagram.The manual states "Voltage between the two brushes should be 32-45 volts when the output control knob is set at (10)"Why is mine 4v?I get 14.5v off of the voltage regulator, is this the correct voltage?The regulator has 15v stamped on it so I’m guessing this is correct.Don't understand where the 32-45 volts comes from Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Reply:duaneb55 thanks for your help on my issue.F1 (slow blow fuse) and the flashing diode seem to be good.but I only get 6v.While I was in there I measured the volatge at the ignition coil and that was 14v.
Reply:Originally Posted by MrCleanduaneb55 thanks for your help on my issue.F1 (slow blow fuse) and the flashing diode seem to be good.but I only get 6v.While I was in there I measured the volatge at the ignition coil and that was 14v.
Reply:1) I got a reading of 5v from the '+' brush to ground2) Are these dirty: (First time ever working on something like this)      See next post please...3) I'll clean the brushes and that copper area that they push up against tomorrow.4) I see the brushes, but how would I "check for continuity between the two slip rings"   Do I just touch the leads of the meter to the two copper areas (with brushes removed)?I basically understand the wiring diagram, but have never worked on a generator circuit.Last edited by MrClean; 12-06-2008 at 11:41 PM.
Reply:
Reply:1) I got a reading of 5v from the '+' brush to ground
Reply:MrClean,I figured I'd give you a couple other things to check out after going through the previous checks.  Troubleshoot systematically when not familiar with a device.  I could have you jumping all over checking everything out of control circuit order but then you wouldn't really learn anything or at least as much as you could.  Troubleshoot in proper order and you'll have a better understanding how the unit works.OK, after performing all the checks and steps in the previous post, if everything checks out you're going to 'flash' the field as denrep described earlier.  To do this using a 6 volt (prefered) to 12 volt DC battery, breifly (2-3 seconds) connect it to the '-' (circuit 201) and '+' (circuit 219).  This should be done with the unit running and the Fine Current Adjustment Rheostat set to the maximum '10' position.  If successful, full voltage should immediately be present at the AC outlets.If there is only momentaty and less than full AC output while flashing the field you'll need to check for control AC input to the "Field Rectifier" D2 at the AC terminals (circuits 4 & 5).  If AC voltage is present check for DC voltage at the "Field Rectifier" D2 DC output terminals (circuit 200 '+' & 201 '-') which should be within 1-2 volts of the AC reading.  If not, one or more Field Rectifier diodes is/are suspect and the assembly will need to be checked accordingly.If the above checks out OK confirm the same DC voltage wihin 1-2 volts at the "Fine Current Adjustment Rheostat" R4 input (circuit 200) and output (circuit 219) as the Field Rectifier DC output with the Fine Current Adjustment Rheostat set at the maximum '10' position.  Decreasing the setting should result in a decrease in output voltage (circuit 219).  If OK, the Fine Current Adjustment Rheostat can be considered functioning properly.  You already by-passed this control but this voltage test will check for its operational condition.If the above checks out OK confirm the same maximum DC voltage wihin 1-2 volts at the '-' (circuit 201) and '+' (circuit 219) brushes with the Fine Current Adjustment Rheostat set at the maximum '10' position.If all the above checks out OK the AC and DC side of the generator output controls is functioning properly.Next move on to the AC output side of things by checking continuity of the stator between all outputs (3, 4, 5 & 6).  Specific values will vary due to the output tap locations of the output windings.  No reading between any two outputs indicates an open in that portion of the windings.  Also check for any short to ground from any output.  All checks should be with all connections removed to isolate stator windings from all other component influence.  If all the above checks out OK the generator stator can be considered satisfactory.Note:Stator output assignment3 - 115VAC4 - Field control AC 'hot' (50VAC +/-)5 - Neutral6 - 115VACStator output 'Pairing'3 & 6 - 230VAC4 & 5 - Field control VAC3 & 5 - 115VAC6 & 5 - 115VACFinally check the "Current Sensing Transformer" T2 for an open (no continuity reading) or short (continuity to ground) in the primary windings (circuit 3).This would constitute a complete control and output circuits check of the generator portion of the unit.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Any news MrClean?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:duaneb55Well...Some good news then some bad news.I followed your steps and got to the flashing part, and it seemed to work!All the voltages were correct and I was able to run a compressor off of it.Then I turned it off.Waited about 3-4 hours and tried it again, success! Still works!The following day I replaced the 230v receptacle, and then it stopped working.Maybe one of the wires on the panel that the receptacle is mounted on is loose, easy fix I’ll get to it this weekend.This morning I went to start it and it seems that the motor seized.Can't move the propeller looking thing between the motor and the generator, I was able to turn it when I cleaned the slip rings earlier.Why me!Is this a lost cause?
Reply:Originally Posted by MrClean...This morning I went to start it and it seems that the motor seized. Can't move the propeller looking thing between the motor and the generator, I was able to turn it when I cleaned the slip rings earlier...
Reply:Originally Posted by MrCleanduaneb55Well...Some good news then some bad news.I followed your steps and got to the flashing part, and it seemed to work!All the voltages were correct and I was able to run a compressor off of it.Then I turned it off.Waited about 3-4 hours and tried it again, success! Still works!The following day I replaced the 230v receptacle, and then it stopped working.Maybe one of the wires on the panel that the receptacle is mounted on is loose, easy fix I’ll get to it this weekend.This morning I went to start it and it seems that the motor seized.Can't move the propeller looking thing between the motor and the generator, I was able to turn it when I cleaned the slip rings earlier.Why me!Is this a lost cause?