Do I have enough welder?

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Hello All,I have two Miller welders, Thunderbolt XL stick (AC/Dc) and Millermatic 211(older style). The 211 was worked very well for past projects but this next project I might need a bit more poop. I want to build a frame for my tractor / backhoe (small 6ft) out of 3 X 4 X .5 angle iron. I was considering stick welding but I think I need ~200 amp (or more) to do the butt welds. I prefer DC stick. The thunderbolt can run 200 amp but that's AC. Really didn't want to go to a 50amp 220 circuit but I might have not choice. Thanks, Brian
Reply:In my opinion you are fine - none of what you describe would require over an 1/8" rod (with a bevel and using multiple passes).You can certainly use a larger rod if you want though.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I don't see the need to go to 200 amps either. Even on super coupons with a .625 wall I run 1/8 rods at about 110-115
Reply:If you stick weld it you will be fine.   More amps if you want to MIG weld it.  But proper bevel and joint prep with multiple passes, my guess is that you could do it with the 211 alsoTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Just out of curiosity, what kind of frame do you need for your backhoe?Usually they just clip into some brackets just outboard of where the 3-point hitch lives.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:This is an old 1981 Ford 1700 4wd tractor that I want to use a (chinese) LW-6 backhoe. There aren't many subframes around for that combo. It is supposed to be a 3point mount but I really don't like that method. Figgered I'd run some steel under the rear axle up to the motor mounts to distribute the weight a bit better. Plus I can pull the BH in closer to the rear wheels to cut down the overhang. That's the plan anyhow. Wasn't going to go that thick but I got a deal on the .5 angle iron.
Reply:I understand completely.I had a 3-point backhoe for a while. Doing anything serious did terrible things to the hitch.Depending on mounting points around the diff, you may not have to go that far forward. I'm not familiar with the 1700. (My only Ford tractor was a 2110.) Are there available threaded holes in the diff housing? Or are the only holes in the clutch housing?Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:The front loader brackets are on the clutch housing. I have a 770a loader from a Ford 1710. Had to open up all the brackets as the 1700 is wider by 1.5 inch. The 211 was great for this job as the brackets were 3/16. Been an interesting project.The rear axle has a square housing out at the wheels that I was planning to clamp to. Then bring the bars up under the loader brackets to the engine mounts. (Little more support for the loader)
Reply:Since I'm not there and you have a clear understanding of what your are doing, I'll stop bugging you.If you need a sounding board for ideas, PM me.Be wary of The Numbers: Figures don't lie,. but liars can figure.Welders:2008 Lincoln 140 GMAW&FCAW2012 HF 165 'toy' GTAW&SMAW1970's Cobbled together O/A
Reply:You Miller Thunderbolt would do just fine.  Don't fear "AC" welding either.  .A Liberal is someone who lives in a gated community with private security,  but says that a boarder fence won't work and people don't need guns for self protection.