Amperage Question

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My question is does anyone know how the amperage or volt settings go for the letters corresponding to the lincoln MIG welder? Like mine has 5 settings, A-E. Does anyone know the equivalent of each setting or does each letter just cover a voltage range? I have the weld-pak 15 and it has 208-230 voltage if that helps.
Reply:Each letter on the voltage selector knob picks a voltage tap setting.And each voltage setting varies depending on the output amperage (the wire feed speed or WFS).  As the amperage/WFS increases, for any voltage setting, the voltage 'droops' or gets lower and lower.Example, at the MAX voltage knob setting but the minimum WFS the voltage may be 30V or so (close to the maximum open-circuit voltage the machine can produce).  At the MAX voltage knob setting and a maximum WFS (that is still able to work and make a decent weld), the voltage may have drooped to about 16-17V.Quite a voltage range there, and you didn't even change the voltage knob at all!Unless you are using a different wire than the wire types listed on the parameter door chart, you can pretty much just use the door chart settings and not worry about it.If you are using a different wire, and you know the supposed operating parameters for that wire (voltage and amperage and WFS) and want to know which letter/number to set the voltage/WFS knobs to, you can either cross-reference the door chart settings and look up the parameters (volts/amps/WFS) for the Lincoln L-56 or NR211-MP wire and back into what the letter/number chart settings translate into for volts/amps/WFS and then use that knowledge to make an educated guess as to what settings to use for the 'new' wire.Or just stick the 'new' wire in and make some test welds.  Probably start with the door chart settings for the general wire 'type' to hopefully get you in the ballpark, and adjust the settings as needed.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Hey moon thank you, that does explain a bit to me. I was trying to recreate a weld i made in class. In class we had a mcuh more industrial sized lincoln(the exact model escapes me)but the settings were different, instead of letters A-E you could actually turn a knob to get the number of volts, same with the wire speed. So in class at around 300 WFS and 22 volts I made one of the best welds on 1/4" plate.So I then tried to re-create it the next day on my home lincoln.. On C setting on the same plate(i got to bring home) it looked kinda ropey and tall and too cold I'm guessing? So I then turned it up to D, and the weld looked alot like the one I had created in class, but I noticed there wasn't always that crackling noise and stub-out occurred sporadically so I tried using various types of wire speed.. Not sure if I got it right yet.So as a general rule, the thicker the metal and the higher the setting should the WFS increase as well, or should it be lower? My teacher said a good rule is to keep it in the middle for decent speed and voltage.. If you say the voltage drops at MAX WFS, what need would you need the wire to come out so fast for but at such a low voltage?Last edited by Mikey D; 03-04-2009 at 09:56 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mikey DSo as a general rule, the thicker the metal and the higher the setting should the WFS increase as well, or should it be lower?
Reply:An 'industrial' Lincoln MIG with the knobs and meters for volts/amps/WFS would be a 250-class or better machine.  Current model is the PM255XT.  http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=62126And that machine has MUCH more ooomph than a WeldPak15.  You mean a MIG-Pak 15?  That machine is rated at 130 amps and 20 V at a 30% duty cycle, WFS range from 50-400 ipm (pretty much what all the 'smaller' MIG machines can do) and an amp range from 30-155 amps.Hmmm, 300 ipm WFS and 22V just happens to be one of the listed parameter settings for short-circuit transfer using Lincoln L-56 (ER70S-6) in 0.030 dia using CO2 gas.  Right out of the product catalog.    If you use C25 gas, the recommended voltage drops to 20-21V at that WFS.Just start with the doorchart settings on your MIGPak15 for 1/4 inch steel and the wire type/diameter and gas used. As Brocolli said, the 'correct' parameters depend on the wire (type and diameter) and the material (type and thickness).  And the gas type used (for GMAW aka MIG).  And the type of transfer mode used or desired.  The parameters don't depend on the machine, but not all machines can produce all parameters (example, your MIGPak can't produce enough volts/amps/WFS to drive into spray mode but the PM250-255 can  ).Go to the Lincoln website and look up document C4200.   GMAW Guide.Or go to the ESAB website ( www.esabna.com ) and read up about welding.  Good info there.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseAn 'industrial' Lincoln MIG with the knobs and meters for volts/amps/WFS would be a 250-class or better machine.  Current model is the PM255XT.  http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=62126And that machine has MUCH more ooomph than a WeldPak15.  You mean a MIG-Pak 15?  That machine is rated at 130 amps and 20 V at a 30% duty cycle, WFS range from 50-400 ipm (pretty much what all the 'smaller' MIG machines can do) and an amp range from 30-155 amps.Hmmm, 300 ipm WFS and 22V just happens to be one of the listed parameter settings for short-circuit transfer using Lincoln L-56 (ER70S-6) in 0.030 dia using CO2 gas.  Right out of the product catalog.    If you use C25 gas, the recommended voltage drops to 20-21V at that WFS.Just start with the doorchart settings on your MIGPak15 for 1/4 inch steel and the wire type/diameter and gas used. As Brocolli said, the 'correct' parameters depend on the wire (type and diameter) and the material (type and thickness).  And the gas type used (for GMAW aka MIG).  And the type of transfer mode used or desired.  The parameters don't depend on the machine, but not all machines can produce all parameters (example, your MIGPak can't produce enough volts/amps/WFS to drive into spray mode but the PM250-255 can  ).Go to the Lincoln website and look up document C4200.   GMAW Guide.Or go to the ESAB website ( www.esabna.com ) and read up about welding.  Good info there.
Reply:The thickness (and type) of the metal being welded determines how many amps (how much power) is needed to properly/successfully weld that metal.How many amps narrows down what size and type(s) of wire can possibly handle that amperage.With the amps and wire size and type narrowed down, then you narrow down what sort of voltage is needed from the machine in order to make that amperage happen.And you check the gas or gas-mix choice(s) to make -that- is compatible with the parameters you are narrowing down.Then you double-check to make sure your chosen machine (or your -only- machine  ) can do what you think you are picking it to do.Example:  You are really not going to pick 0.045 " diameter solid ER70S-6 wire  (like Lincoln L-56 wire) to try and weld some thin 22 gauge plain mild steel sheetmetal with CO2 in short-circuit transfer mode.  Unless you have a fancy $$ pulsed GMAW machine    The wire type is fine, but the diameter is too big for the metal thickness, which means pretty much too many amps going into the arc.  And that means you melt right through the thin sheetmetal.How about picking 0.025 L-56 wire and C25 to weld 1/2 inch plate?  Nope again, that wire is too small for the metal thickness.But the 0.025 L-56 wire and C25 would usually be a pretty good pick for welding some 22 gauge sheetmetal.And that 0.045 L-56 wire would be more suitable for welding that 1/2 inch plate.  But you might want to use a different gas (mix) like 98-2 argon-O2 instead of straight CO2 and run in spray transfer mode (a much higher energy transfer mode than short-circuit transfer).  But that restricts you to working in the flat position and not doing out-of-position welds, because the weld puddle will be so fluid from all the heat/energy.  Again, unless you have a fancy $$$ pulsed spray GMAW set-up.Working outside in a breeze?  You might want to pick an FCAW-S wire instead of the GMAW (aka MIG) wire so you don't have to worry about the breeze blowing your shielding gas away or have to set up wind-block tents/tarps all over the place.Etc, etc, etc.For most of your at-home stuff, pretty much follow the door-chart recommendations about the wire size/type and gas and machine settings.  And that is based on the thickness of the metal being welded.Ed, sorry about the misspelling of "Broccoli".  Oops.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Excellent info again moon, thank you I think I understand much better now what you mean. I guess my problem is(and clearly its a rookie thing)is that right now I am not really welding much of anything except for running and practicing beads on old scrap metal, I got like 6 pieces and they are all different sizes so I sometimes I guess misjudge how thick they are. The smallest being like 18 gauge and the biggest is 1/2". Now I mean I did understand that the higher settings were for thicker metal but the whole diameter size of the wire, I was unsure of. I have the L-56 wire for the indoor, and the(number escapes me)FCAW for outdoors. Originally I had the FCAW setup until I had enough money to get the gas. It appears some shopping is in order for some bigger wire and tips, especially if I can bring home those 1/4" plates from vocational school Last edited by Mikey D; 03-04-2009 at 05:14 PM.
Reply:A few things that might help..023 wire needs 5 inches per minute to use one amp, SO 400 ipm should be about 100 amps.  That is more than the wire will take, BUT .023 wire is perfect for thin gauge steel..030 wire uses 2 ipm for one amp, SO 400 ipm would be 200 amps, more than your machine could put out. Too keep going, .035 is 1.6 inches for one amp and .045 is 1 ipm per amp.If your machine has a knob 0 to 10, then 1 would be 40 ipm, 5 would be 200 ipm.....030 would be the ideal size wire for your machine unless you are mostly doing thin stuff.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I see, I agree I think .030-.035" would be ideal especially for the thicker metals as well.
Reply:The 'standard' Lincoln FCAW wire that comes with the 'smaller' welders is NR-211MP.  It probably even says that on the door chart with the parameters, just like the door chart says L-56 and CO2 on some other lines and L-56 and C25 on some -other- lines in the chart.Pssst, you DID realize that the nice door chart Lincoln has on the inside of the door over the wire spool compartment has those silhouettes of various thicknesses of metal and the listed size of the metal?  And that the pictures are pretty close to scale, so if you don't have a ruler/caliper/micrometer/etc to measure the thickness of the metal piece you are working on you can just hold it up to the picture and see which pictured thickness matches?  Sheet metal thickness = use the 0.025 wireNot quite so thin metal thickness up to a little bit thicker = use the 0.030 wireLook at the door chart and see how the wire diameter has an influence on the parameter settings and on the max/min thickness of metal that can be welded with that wire size.And read through the info on the websites on in that Lincoln C4200 GMAW Guide (as well as all sorts of other useful and helpful info on the Lincoln, Miller, and ESAB sites).Basically, bigger wire can deliver more amps but can't run as well at the low end.  Smaller wire usually works better for the  small stuff but then can't deliver enough amps on thick stuff.And all that also depends on the wire type as well as the machine's max/min capabilities.For that machine and GMAW, probably use 0.025 wire if you are mostly doing thin sheet metal.  If you are working mostly with a little bit thicker steel, then the 0.030 wire may be more appropriate.If using FCAW (at least the Lincoln NR211-MP wire), then you are pretty much going to use the 0.030 or 0.035 wire diameter.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Hah yes I did notice the chart on the inside of the door and how they have silhouetted pictures.. I mean that's how I did it lol by eye comparisons. And you are right again about the FCAW wire, its the same one I have that came with the machine when I purchased it.I do enjoy that website, tons of useful stuff! So thank you for that!
Reply:I got another amperage question/setting for my weld-pak 180hd...sorry to hijack the thread.Here is the guide of settings on the welder:My question: how close is your settings to the guide given? From what I've experienced, I needed to adjust the speed of the wire to half a point more...except on 3/16 steel with .035 solid wire- I had to turn the speed up to 8-9 resulting an ok weld on butt joints..but poor on lap/t-joints (cold weld like the one below)
Reply:Fishstick,I'm having the same problem with my new to me Lincoln SP 175 Plus.  Another member said they had similar problems, basically the numbers posted/on the chart are a bit 'soft' for heat settings.  It just takes a bit of experimentation to find the sweet spot for a particular wire/metal thickness.I'm going to run another test this weekend on it against my Hobart Handler 175.  Stay tuned to that thread, I'll have pics (less blurry as I'll be using my tripod).David, I learned something new today.  Glad I got up early.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Fishstick.  You are doing fine except when you turn the wire up to 9 to weld 3/16".  The machine has run out of balls.  Turning the wire up does not help, but masks the problem.  You are getting a cold weld because the voltage has been drawn down by so much wire.  Chart says 4.5.  Going up or down a little is fine, but doubling it is way out of the ball park.T joints or a fillet (same thing) take the most heat and your machine may not have enough Ooomph to do it.  Notice it says the same settings for 10 guage as 3/16".  Its the end of the line.  For more wire speed you would need an "F" setting on the voltage.  If you weld that joint up instead of down, it will be a much better (stronger) weld.Markball2, that is why we are here.  I learn a lot here too.David Last edited by David R; 04-24-2009 at 06:20 AM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Fishstick,As David said, you pretty much found out where the top end of the machine is.That, and in general you should use vertical UP and get more heat into the weld.Using vertical down you generally have a faster travel speed and thus less actual heat going into the weld.  Vertical down would be used for thinner steel, like sheet metal.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Thanks for the advice guys. I am now considering into upgrading.
Reply:Something is definitely off as even with my 135 I could get the Weld bead to stick to the steel- this area doesn't even look like it is attached??? Attached ImagesEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Thats right, it didn't even melt the steel. When the bead cooled down, it just separated itself from the steel. I was suppose to weld upwards to generate more heat. If I turn the wire speed down close the setting given (.035 solid wire), it will only create a soupy molten wire. I try preheating the 3/16 steel whenever I am welding away from the edge to get better penetration. I just don't know how strong it will be....need a bigger welder
Reply:fishstick,A 180-class machine and 0.035 solid wire with C25 gas pretty much maxes out the wire/machine amperage where the door chart has the specs.  Those machines and that wire will only do short-circuit transfer, and the top amount of amperage you can push through 0.035 solid wire and C25 gas in short-circuit transfer is right around 180 amps or so (give or take a little bit).  That works out to be about 250-300 ipm WFS (and about 20-22V).That and your use of vertical down and the inherent fast travel speed meant that you didn't get enough heat into the base metal to melt it.  So you got a 'cold weld' or 'cold lap' or 'inadequate penetration'.  The arc heat didn't melt the base metal and pretty much just melted the filler wire and globbed it on top of the (still cold and unmelted) base metal.You should watch the puddle of molten base metal that the arc is making (not the arc itself) and make sure that there -IS- a melting of the base metal.  Otherwise you are just melting the filler wire and globbing it on top of the base metal.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by fishstickThats right, it didn't even melt the steel. When the bead cooled down, it just separated itself from the steel. I was suppose to weld upwards to generate more heat. If I turn the wire speed down close the setting given (.035 solid wire), it will only create a soupy molten wire. I try preheating the 3/16 steel whenever I am welding away from the edge to get better penetration. I just don't know how strong it will be....need a bigger welder
Reply:...so i came up with a solution
Reply:Originally Posted by fishstick...so i came up with a solution
Reply:If you can't get it to run, send it to me, I'll send you my Lincoln for you to use.I've come to the conclusion, Lincoln's chart isn't hot enough to penetrate.  Crank your voltage up on the 180 to about C, then adjust your wirespeed to about 5-6.  Give that a go & see if it penetrates better.  If you blow through, reduce your wirespeed one notch at a time until you get to 2.  If your still blowing through, adjust voltage to B wirespeed 5-6.  Adjust down again until you get the right penetration/weld.Last edited by MarkBall2; 04-28-2009 at 07:00 PM.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I suggest trying the chart settings first.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.I was referring to the 180 mig, not the new one.Unless he wants to send me his new one.  MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:sure i can send you the box. Its a 255xt. I sold my 180 already. I am planning on welding thicker stuff so I decided to upgrade. I will just have to practice and get the right settings with this one.Going upwards on vertical welds sure does make sense, but why are they showing downwards on the chart for MIG?...the 180 says downwards tooLast edited by fishstick; 04-28-2009 at 11:08 PM.
Reply:Fishstick,  I am a huge lincoln fan, but they ought to be shot for that one.UP is the way to go!DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Nice upgrade.Let"s go red!Last edited by Joker11; 04-29-2009 at 11:11 PM.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain