6010-6012 unavailable. Can I modify a 6013 instead?

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I'm a beginner, and my goal project is to weld thin galvanized steel sheet with the stick welder I just bought. I don't expect it to be easy.All my internet searches say that 6010-6012 is best for this, since it doesn't get so hot. In Hong Kong, nothing besides 6013 is available for mild steel. Since the main difference is the flux, can I modify 6013 to be more like 6011? Perhaps by scraping off half of the flux?Also, a welding supply store recommended a specific brand of 6013 for galvanized. I thought within a category, every brand was basically the same. Not so?
Reply:No trying to remove part of the flux will not change one rod type to another. It's the chemical composition that is different. Lack of flux coating just makes the rods not run right.6010/11 are deep penetrating, fast freeze rods. Not sure about 6012 as I've never used them. It's the fast freeze properties of 6010/11 that some find useful for thin material, but the deep penetrating properties usually give most people a lot of issues with thin stuff. 6013 is a low penetration rod and many find it a bit easier to use on thin sheet.You don't say what size material you are trying to weld, or what size rod. For thin stuff, your best bet is very small rods like 1/16" or 5/64". However selection is often limited in those small sizes. Smaller rods means you run less amps, so you have less chance you will burn thru.Galvanizing just makes things tougher. Best bet is to remove the galvanizing 1st if you must weld galvanized material. 6010/11 because it's a deep penetrating rod that tolerates more impurities than other rods, tends to be the choice for welding thru galvanized coatings. Keep in mind the fumes from burning galvanized zinc can make you very ill. Best bet is to not weld on galvanized material. 2nd choice is to weld outside and use a good respirator designed for welding galvanized..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:What DSW said is choice #1.  Then there's Choice #2.  If you're still hell bent on using 6013 on galvanized sheet, the good news is that it can be done.  In fact, testing out a new welder yesterday afternoon, that's exactly what I was using (among various electrodes) on galvanized pipe with no grinding/removing of the zinc coating.  You can use 6013 on zinc electroplated and/or galvanized, but don't count on the weld being "deep" when using the 6013's.   Since you're only welding sheet metal, it shouldn't matter provided that you are a competent stick welder that has experience in rod manipulation etc...  My own experience with successfully welding galvanized sheet metal using 6013, is to turn up the heat a little more.  Be careful however because you could burn through, depending on just how thin your work piece is.  The only way to know for sure if it will  work, is to practice on some galvanized scrap first and see if it meets your satisfaction with the 6013.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Thanks for the pointers and reassurance! I have two brands of 5/64" welding rods--2mm, as we call it here. I think they're pretty different, as one says it's "high titania" (whatever that means) with yellowish flux. I have two thicknesses of galvanized sheet for practice. And I've previously made fumes that are scarier than zinc, and my ventilation strategies proved adequate.Other options: tack welding only. Or tack welding a few times until it's fully welded. And clamping on a thicker backing to help with burn through.
Reply:5/64" 6013's (DC-) are good and in fact are my personal favorite for "beer-can thin" steel.  However, If you had some 1/16" 6013, you might fare much better.  But those can be tricky and are very unstable on initial light up.  They shake like a hummingbird's wings in a hurricane.  At least they do for me when I try to use them, but in the hands of a skilled welding "surgeon," they do work amazingly well, especially if #1 TIG or #2 MIG processes are not available.   They work very well on thin  steel in the hands of the EXPERIENCED SMAW weldor.   Google "back step welding".  That's one way to prevent overheating parts of your sheet metal which leads to distortion and burn through.  A large aluminum or copper (better) heat sink behind the metal while welding also helps.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Galvanized solders pretty easily doesn't it?Sent from my HTCONE using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:SuperArc, I'll try your suggestion, I think I'm cursed because the metal is both galvanized, and very thin (0.7 mm). Shallow penetration just boils away the coating and doesn't bond the steel, while deep penetration melts a hole through the sheet. I think either thicker metal or plain steel would make this work better. Does that sounds right? (Though if the heat sink makes a huge difference, it could still work.)And BTW, soldering has insufficient strength: kick it and it falls apart. I'm brazing right now, but I want to move to welding because the surface preparation is less of a pain.