Welding table design review

admin

Looking for some input on my welding table design. First post, first time user of Google Sketch-Up and this will be my first welding project so feel free to comment as such. I want this table done right.  General: It'll be a freestanding table in the middle of the garage.Dimensions: 3' x 6'Top: 1/2" with 3" overhangFrame material: 1.5" x 3.5" x 1/4" (already have this material, it was from a warehouse structure, it has rounded corners though so looking to avoid having to cope the material to make joints as much as possible)Casters: 5" 1000lbs capacityLeveling feet: Might make them from bolts and washers but might buy them as well.Clamping slots: CNC plasma cut, patterned off the Miller welding tablesTo be added to the design: (potentially)Simple shelfMetal stock storage loops Clamp rodReceivers for vice, grinders, etcQuestions?1. Should I build a rectangular frame under the table top rather than have the legs go straight to the base of the plate?  I have a feeling that'll be easier to keep it level.2. Will the inboard casters be a pain?  I don't anticipate moving the table around much but don't want it to be unstable.  The table will generally reside on the leveling feet but occasionally will move around the garage as needed.  I don't really want the casters outside the frame corners though they could potentially be under the corners. I was afraid with that configuration that I'd have to rig for the leveling feet wouldn't be particularly strong, hence the inboard casters.3. I've seen other slot patterns that look more like a fan.  Any comments on that or clamping slots in general?4. I have a Eastwood MIG135 welder (110V) that supposedly will weld 1/4" material but according to the supporting materials I'd need to use flux cored wire rather than gasless.  Why is that and what preparations or precautions should I use to weld the thick leg material with a smaller welder.5. Will plasma cutting the table top introduce bowing? I know the steel plate won't be perfectly flat but I don't want to add warpage to it.  A CNC shop will be doing the cutting.6. I'm sure I'll have more questions as this goes along.  Thanks in advance.
Reply:I opted for this design based on the Miller X-clamp.  After using it for a year I really like the layout.  I like your design and if you are not doing a whole lot of intricate ornamental work I think that X design would work find for general purposes.  Nice design. Attached ImagesJay DavisAWS-CWIC-60 Specialty Welding ContractorLoving husband, and father of two boys (
Reply:1. Should I build a rectangular frame under the table top rather than have the legs go straight to the base of the plate?  I have a feeling that'll be easier to keep it level.
Reply:Instead of casters & stops try some of these staging wheels.  I made this cart for hauling 6'x10'x.250" Diamond plate sheets out of an old mill building.  They not only lock the rolling, but they lock the swivel & don't move.  It was $100 clams from El Cheapodepoh (with free shipping!)With a bit of filing they can fit inside a piece of 1.250" Sched 40 pipe.Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:Take a look at Tyler's table that uses skate board wheels:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=62615
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireTake a look at Tyler's table that uses skate board wheels:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=62615
Reply:Its tough to see in the pic, but we used two cheap bottle jacks between the caster bars and cross bars on the table.  We eventually made custom foot pedals and extended hand release levers for the jacks.  Two quick pumps on either side and that table glides across the room.  Release the jacks and she ain't going anywhere.  I think the bottle jacks were maybe 10 bucks and the casters I had picked up at a swap meet months ago.  Super cheap way to move a monster!
Reply:Great suggestions so far.  Keep 'em coming.  I'll be incorporating some of the design ideas and post another image once I can find some time to work on it.
Reply:Jbyrd, I recently found out the Miller clamps will only work for 3/8" tops so I'm assuming your table top is that thickness.  How do you like it?  I'm debating 1/2" versus 3/8" now since I'd like to use the Miller X clamps.
Reply:The clamps work fine for up to 5/8 inch tables.  The fastener on the bottom is adjustable.  I set mine for my 1/2 top and then loctited it so it wouldn't move.  Works great.Sent from my DROID3 using TapatalkJay DavisAWS-CWIC-60 Specialty Welding ContractorLoving husband, and father of two boys (
Reply:Figured I'd post an update now that I'm pretty close to being done with my table. Here's the final configuration I went with. I moved the lower shelf in to help support the casters and also give me some foot room. The unpainted portions are to tack the angle iron that'll border the expanded metal shelf. Just haven't gotten to that yet.I also added two 2" hitch receivers to be able to make mounts for my grinder, saw, and so on in the future. A few lessons learned:The rectangular tubing sucked!  It was recycled material so much less expensive than new (.25" material) but it was a PITA to remove the powder coat and also to fit up each piece due to the rounded corners. I'd use it for other projects, just not one like this.Also glad I went with a 6" heavy duty caster and made sturdy leveling feet. This table is heavy! I'll be rolling it out of my stick framed garage to weld so it's nice that it rolls well once you get it moving. It's heavy enough that it doesn't move much at all until you really want it to move.  If I need it to stay absolutely put I'll put down the extendable feet.I borrowed a Miller 175 and made a 65' high voltage extension cord to run it from my dryer outlet. I definitely needed the power versus my 110 machine for this table. Eventually I'll wire my garage for 220V and get a bigger welder but for now it'll have to do.My welds varied from sucky to fairly decent but overall I need a lot more practice for them to look nice. In general they seemed to get relatively good penetration though based upon the discoloration that appeared around the welds so I'm not worried about their strength. In general I need to slow down and be more patient while laying the weld.Here's a few photos of the process since I know people like to see more than read.
Reply:Nice. Do consider a leather apron because if your shirt gets snagged in the grinder you will regret it. Most of my grinders don't have a dead man switchMiller diversion 165Miller mig 211Hypertherm pm 30Milwaukee 6230 14 inch chop sawMd 45 mag drill (RIP; fell on its head)New MD 45! Thanks to the esposa!Finally got an O/A setup
Reply:Good job. Looks nice.
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected]. Do consider a leather apron because if your shirt gets snagged in the grinder you will regret it. Most of my grinders don't have a dead man switch
Reply:Originally Posted by [email protected]. Do consider a leather apron because if your shirt gets snagged in the grinder you will regret it. Most of my grinders don't have a dead man switch
Reply:Since then I've bought some steel toed boots for metal work too. The thought of one of those segments crashing down on my toes... no thanks! I switched to heavier gloves as well.
Reply:Yes, build a frame for under the plate, also, depending on how you use it, I have the lower spreader bars up higher on all my tables, it keeps you from banging your shins. More overhang on the top. You want at least as much overhang as  your deepest c clamp. 5" casters work great. I roll my tables around every day. I don't have adjustable feet on mine and have never needed them, just run a pin through the wheel locks holes to keep it from moving on the rare occasions you need it. Plasma will warp the top, how much is the question. Even bigger question is how much weaker the top will be, and how much more flex will there be in it? I think you would be better off to bore a series of holes through it instead, keeps the structure more rigid that way
Reply:Wow, some really nice tables folks.Working on cars and bikes is my hobby, learning to weld the pieces together is my quest.
Reply:Very nice table.  Love it!-AaronJet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:Great looking table.  The receiver hitches are a nice touch.  I guess you would have to have two grinders, etc. in case one was bolted down to a workbench and the other could be portable out to your table?
Reply:One thing I'll note is that welding tables with a crossbars near the floor are a pain in the AS$ when you're TIGing with a foot pedal.I would only put one cross bar lengthwise down the middle, and make it high enough for a pushbroom to easily clear.Last edited by MikeGyver; 09-21-2012 at 01:51 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:for easier mounting of the staging (or scaffold ) casters,menards.com has these for 5 bucks each. Attached Imagesmiller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:Nice table! Great job, thanks for sharing your project.
Reply:Great idea with the use of hydraulic jacks to lift the table.  I'll put that into my book of stolen ideas.  Thanks
Reply:I truly am impressed! Great looking welding table.Old tools, trajan band saw, grizzly, delta,lincoln