Is there such a thing as hopelessly dirty steel?

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I mean steel that is full of crap so that you can't clean it? I've been trying to TIG on this 3/8" steel and no matter how I grind and clean  no matter how I prepare my electrodes it's welding like it was covered in crap.   The welds are pitty and pocked with holes large and small like it's bubbling up from inside.   As I weld I get what appears to be a nice wet puddle and then, as I move on, the lovely puddle bursts into a cratered mess. I gave up toward the end and switched to stick welding because it was so awful.In the spirit of humiliation here's pix:Last edited by Raul; 05-16-2014 at 12:57 PM.Hey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:Too many ground up Toyota's.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:that's weird, it looks almost like a gas/shielding problem.  Not saying it is, just saying what it looks like to me.   1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Yikes!  You sure had a frustrating day.Did you try weld some other steel to make sure the metal was the problem?Did you try running a bead without filler to see what happens?Are you using the right filler and did not get some mystery sticks mixed in?Shooting in the dark as I have not seen this yet.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Did u use shielding gas?
Reply:try grinding/sanding it with a new clean disk first. Then wash it good with acetone then use a new from the box grind/sand disk. Had some issue like that with cross contaminates on 304l sst hardwire once... Otherwise like you said stick awayTOOLS AND TOYSSMAW Mid States Inc. "MISSING LINK" 10-150 AMP Buzzer circa 1945ishSMAW Magic Wand 40-60 AMP Suitcase Buzzer circa 1939ishGMAW Hobart 210 IronmanOxy-Propane TorchMany other old and cold goodies"Rusty but Trusty"
Reply:Pics show great big gaps--this can cause great big turbulence, great big porosity,as well as no shielding from the backside.Time to work on your joint fitup before blaming every thing else.Blackbird
Reply:It may be leaded cold rolled street which is easy to machine but not to weld J. R. Bauer
Reply:Steel J. R. Bauer
Reply:try some other metal and filler rod....Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:From the looks of it I think there's a good possibility you might have some 12L14 leaded free machining steel you're trying to weld on.   Where did you get it?
Reply:Hmmm  Back flowing shielding gas from the other side of the weld? Didn't think of that.    But I am not currently equipped to accomplish that. However if it were  that, then wouldn't the weld done  on one side solve that for the other side?  Maybe not if it was terribly porous.   The fit was not super.  All the parts were cut  with an  Abrasive disk  in my makita chop saw.    They were very tightly clamped  from three directions.  The steel in question is all pretty much unknown it is:   bar stock steel is (a) Hillman from the borg, (b) Mystery metal 6" disk  from ebay, and (c) Extra Heavy steel pipe from a plumbing supply. Cross contamination issues could be a problem as the abrasives I use tend to get used on other metals, but not as general purpose abrasives, but there could be oils and crud on them.  These parts were washed in mineral spirits and  then with 409 and water.Hey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:Originally Posted by RaulHmmm  Back flowing shielding gas from the other side of the weld? Didn't think of that.    But I am not currently equipped to accomplish that. However if it were  that, then wouldn't the weld done  on one side solve that for the other side?  Maybe not if it was terribly porous.   *****big gapping can cause big porosity from turbulence and pull air into the molten puddle from theback side. I'm NOT suggesting backpurging.The fit was not super.  All the parts were cut  with an  Abrasive disk  in my makita chop saw.    They were very tightly clamped  from three directions.  ****that gapping is no good Cross contamination issues could be a problem as the abrasives I use tend to get used on other metals, but not as general purpose abrasives, but there could be oils and crud on them.  These parts were washed in mineral spirits and  then with 409 and water.
Reply:Crap metal, 6011 might work. The real question is why did you weld the entire piece out knowing it was a problem? Now you have a lot more crap to grind away.Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:I'm betting on leaded or sulfurized free machining steel.  S/F...Ken M
Reply:bar stock steel is (a) Hillman from the borg,
Reply:How did it turn out once you switched to stick rod welding of the pieces? Any better or the same, did you try stick welding it yet?
Reply:What gas are you using? Also what are your other settings and machine?  Does it weld fine on other steel?
Reply:Originally Posted by MISSING LINKtry grinding/sanding it with a new clean disk first. Then wash it good with acetone then use a new from the box grind/sand disk. Had some issue like that with cross contaminates on 304l sst hardwire once... Otherwise like you said stick away
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Reply:Mr MJD that is the most valuable advice anyone could give  If it don't work STOP don't keep going   clifton
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