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see my next post #2Last edited by Cardinal Grammeter; 07-24-2014 at 09:59 PM.Reason: Duplicate
Reply:EDIT: I spoke too soon. The conduit "fitting" is in the torch where the "block" is.It appears that the same quick disconnect fitting is used for the gas tube and the conduit. To remove the gas tube, you push the ring in on the end of the fitting. The gas fitting is in the block, the conduit fitting is on the conduit. I didn't remove the conduit fitting because it appears the conduit is a tiny bit larger in diameter and so it is really right in the fitting. (gas tubing is .155 and conduit is .160 inches in diameter)I'm guessing the OE replacement is just a length of conduit which is the proper length and is simply replaced just like the gas tube.So I guess any liner that has the right OD should work. In fact, I don't even think the conduit has to be fixed at the fitting. If it was loose in the fitting it would simply be trapped and should work fine since wire is pushing.Is it that simple?Also, I found what I thought was "broken conduit" coming out the end of the torch when I recently fed some new wire into it. Turns out there was nothing wrong. As you can see in the pics, there is a wound wire conduit stub that simply lives inside the torch trapped between the block and the copper contact tip.I actually don't know if the conduit is worn. All I know it is almost impossible to push the wire through the conduit with my fingers. If the sheath is straight, the wire slides smoothly but when it has any bends, the wire is very hard to push by hand. If there is an aggressive bend in the sheath, it ain't happinin.' (NOTE: This is .023 steel)Since I don't do a lot of welding, would there by any downside to put a Teflon liner in it for steel and aluminum? The total conduit length is 6.5' so it is nice and short to push aluminum wire. I think Daytona said their MIGs all came with Teflon liners. Also, since I've heard the wire feeder is not the strongest, maybe Teflon isn't a bad idea? I still have to decide if the conduit is actually worn though. Will be searching for how to determine....At least I've got some photo documentation for this little MIG if anyone else needs help.ThanksTomAttachment 779621Attachment 779631Attachment 779641 Attached ImagesLast edited by Cardinal Grammeter; 07-24-2014 at 10:01 PM.Reason: Lost images
Reply:I'm not sure if this thread will help you or not. From what the OP says, the Hobart 196139 .023/.035 liner will work on the 130. My Powermig 130 gun/ drive assembly looks exactly like your unit. I'm betting the basic drive / gun parts are identical between the 110 and the 130.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...130-Liner-swapI originally "parked" my unit when I couldn't locate parts to get it working after if failed. I eventually found someone selling a similar unit cheap, and bought it as a parts machine.You commented on alum above. Don't even bother. While the gun might be short, the machine lacks the power to do alum. My 130 doesn't have the power to even bother to attempt to try and run alum. You need at least a 180 amp class mig, maxed out, to do 1/8" alum. Smaller machines like this simply lack the output power to weld alum since it's such a good heat sink..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I've looked carefully at that Hobart 196139 and the local welding supply said it crosses into a Miller 194011 which is an .030-.035 liner.But both of them have the wrong fitting. AND the way the fitting is designed it appears to go into a block at the feeder end, not the torch end. The liner may be a usable diameter but you'd have to get it to fit the quick disconnect in the Astro gun.As far as aluminum, it would never be more than "body panels" which would be less than 1/16" but yes, alum is a heat pig.Still a Teflon liner might make it feed a lot smoother and prolong the life of the feeder.Actually, I buttoned mine up and am just going to use it. When I pushed that little stub liner extension out the front of the gun, that is what caused me to think I had a broken liner.I did put a new .025 tip on it - think it was a .035 so that may help things a little. Harbor Freight tips work.Need to find a nozzle for it...
Reply:Mig on alum less than 1/16" thick will be an effort in frustration. Alum mig is simply too hot a process. Some have had "success" on 1/16" alum with small migs, but the picts I've seen of their results, the vast majority of the welds are cold. Those that wet in properly almost always blow holes in the material because it's too hot. 3/32" alum is about the thinnest most can manage with mig, and even then it's not easy. Thin alum is really the realm of AC tig where you have a lot more control over the heat input..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:21:44