Small Plasma Comparison, TD 38 v PM 30

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Due to a small miscalculation on my part, I find myself with two small plasma cutters at the moment ( thanks eBay! )  I have a Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38 and a Hypertherm Powermax 30.  I'm just a hobbiest, so I really don't need two plasmas.  My task is now to figure out which one I like better, so I can sell the other one to my friend ( which will prevent him from borrowing mine constantly  )  I paid almost exactly the same amount for each, so it'll just be a question of preference.  In case it helps anyone else, I'll use this thread as my notebook.   As I mentioned, I picked up both units from eBay, used.  I received the Cutmaster two weeks ago, and the Powermax just last week.  I had no previous plasma cutting experience, so I'm still on the steep part of the learning curve.  I will cut to cut quality in a little bit, with pictures and all.  First, though, initial impressions:* The Powermax looks like a toy.  It is tiny, even before you put it next to the Cutmaster.  The TD is easily twice as big.  My friend's initial comment upon seeing them was that the TD was an 'industrial' machine, and the Powermax something for hobbiests.  I know that isn't true, but the size difference is startling anyway.* Part of the size difference is content.  The Cutmaster has an internal regulator, and gauge, neither of which the Powermax includes.  The Cutmaster also has the gas-test mode, which isn't a big deal.  The internal regulator, is, though.* Hypertherm inexplicably put the power switch on the rear of its unit.  Probably not a big deal for many, but really awkward for where I was planning to keep it.  Of course, the tiny size gives me more options for storing it, too.  The 'handlebars' on the Cutmaster are a little ridiculous, but I think they are removable.  The built-in cable holders on the Powermax are a nice touch.* It appears that consumables for the Cutmaster are roughly four times as expensive as for the Powermax, which is pretty shocking.  Best prices I can find are $80 for a 16-piece kit for the PM30, and $162 for an 8-piece kit for the CM38.  Probably doesn't make a big difference for the amount that I'll cut, but for a professional, that is probably a deal-breaker. ( Please correct me if you know of cheaper consumables for the TD ).* The work clamp on the Cutmaster is higher quality.* So far, with admittedly just a few yards of cutting, I prefer the 1torch on the Cutmaster, versus the T30v on the Powermax.  The trigger mechanism is better and simpler, and it feels much more like a tool.  The T30v feels more Fischer-Price, although it is smaller which I'm sure is an advantage sometimes.  That hasn't been useful to me, yet.  I don't dislike the T30v, but if I'm picking one, it'd be the 1torch.  Your mileage may vary.   At the moment, there's really no difference in the cut quality, but neither, honestly, are up to snuff due to the operator.  As I practice some more, I will post some hopefully-meaningful comparisons that don't look like an animal chewed on them.  I'm also going to try 120v versus 240v, and see if I can see any difference there.   To be continued...__David Hillman
Reply:David,I'll help answer a few questions for you...however as a 34 plus year Hypertherm employee I could be considered a bit biased! Specifications for each:Cutmaster 38 is an inverter based air plasma with a cutting current range of 20-30 output amps. It has an output power rating of 2.34 killowatts at 35% duty cycle at 104 degrees F.  Input line current draw when producing 2.34 killowatts is 29 amps at 120 volts input.Powermax30 is an inverter based air plasma system with a cutting current range of 15-30 output amps. It has an output power rating of 2.49 killowatts at 35% duty cycle at 104 degrees F. Input line current draw when producing 2.49 killowatts is 26 amps at 120 volts input.They have similar power and duty cycle. Hypertherm has a wider amperage range. The Hypertherm has a higher output killowatt rating (generally this means faster and thicker) and the Hypertherm also draws less input current. Hypertherm unit is more efficient...putting more power to the torch, with less wasted in the form of heat.Cutmaster 38 was manufactured in the US (originally) not sure if that has changed with the shift of manufacturing from their  West Lebanon, NH plant to facilities in Mexico. The torch is produced in Mexico. Input air consumption is 5.0 scfm.The Powermax 30is manufactured in Hanover NH, USA, including the torch. Input air consumption is 4.0 scfm.The Powermax uses less air....important for a small shop, small compressor.A few other notes based on your observations:- Neither of these units are well suited for industrial applications with a 35% duty cycle. Rather, they are both aimed at sheet metal work and hobbiests that generally spend most of their time cutting less than 1/4" thick materials. Both can sever at least 1/2' materials at low speeds.- The Hypertherm unit is very compact.....it also is more efficient with higher output power and lower input power and air flow requirements. Custoers in the 120 volt plasma market requested smaller and more efficient...and that is what was designed!- The Hypertherm Powermax has a built in regulator with a fixed setting, and an auto drain mechanism for air line moisture. There is no need to purge the torch.- The Hypertherm Powermax comes with power cord adapters to easily adapt it to either 20 amp or 25 amp 120 volt outlets as well as 230 volt twist lock style outlets.- The Hypertherm torch...designed specifically for low air flow and for template and drag cutting using very simple consumables with a design that promotes extremely long life....what Hypertherm is famous for. The pointed torch front end has excellent visibility for freehand cutting.Run them both through their paces....both are very nice units....and are built by well respected companies. I suspect some users will prefer the Cutmaster, and some the Hypertherm.Jim ColtSo... Originally Posted by David HillmanDue to a small miscalculation on my part, I find myself with two small plasma cutters at the moment ( thanks eBay! )  I have a Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38 and a Hypertherm Powermax 30.  I'm just a hobbiest, so I really don't need two plasmas.  My task is now to figure out which one I like better, so I can sell the other one to my friend ( which will prevent him from borrowing mine constantly  )  I paid almost exactly the same amount for each, so it'll just be a question of preference.  In case it helps anyone else, I'll use this thread as my notebook.   As I mentioned, I picked up both units from eBay, used.  I received the Cutmaster two weeks ago, and the Powermax just last week.  I had no previous plasma cutting experience, so I'm still on the steep part of the learning curve.  I will cut to cut quality in a little bit, with pictures and all.  First, though, initial impressions:* The Powermax looks like a toy.  It is tiny, even before you put it next to the Cutmaster.  The TD is easily twice as big.  My friend's initial comment upon seeing them was that the TD was an 'industrial' machine, and the Powermax something for hobbiests.  I know that isn't true, but the size difference is startling anyway.* Part of the size difference is content.  The Cutmaster has an internal regulator, and gauge, neither of which the Powermax includes.  The Cutmaster also has the gas-test mode, which isn't a big deal.  The internal regulator, is, though.* Hypertherm inexplicably put the power switch on the rear of its unit.  Probably not a big deal for many, but really awkward for where I was planning to keep it.  Of course, the tiny size gives me more options for storing it, too.  The 'handlebars' on the Cutmaster are a little ridiculous, but I think they are removable.  The built-in cable holders on the Powermax are a nice touch.* It appears that consumables for the Cutmaster are roughly four times as expensive as for the Powermax, which is pretty shocking.  Best prices I can find are $80 for a 16-piece kit for the PM30, and $162 for an 8-piece kit for the CM38.  Probably doesn't make a big difference for the amount that I'll cut, but for a professional, that is probably a deal-breaker. ( Please correct me if you know of cheaper consumables for the TD ).* The work clamp on the Cutmaster is higher quality.* So far, with admittedly just a few yards of cutting, I prefer the 1torch on the Cutmaster, versus the T30v on the Powermax.  The trigger mechanism is better and simpler, and it feels much more like a tool.  The T30v feels more Fischer-Price, although it is smaller which I'm sure is an advantage sometimes.  That hasn't been useful to me, yet.  I don't dislike the T30v, but if I'm picking one, it'd be the 1torch.  Your mileage may vary.   At the moment, there's really no difference in the cut quality, but neither, honestly, are up to snuff due to the operator.  As I practice some more, I will post some hopefully-meaningful comparisons that don't look like an animal chewed on them.  I'm also going to try 120v versus 240v, and see if I can see any difference there.   To be continued...
Reply:Thanks Jim.  A lot of that I knew, but some of it was new, too, and prompts a couple questions.   I'm surprised most about the internal regulator in the PM30.  The manual says..."The gas supply for the Powermax30 can be shop-compressed or cylinder-compressed. A highpressureregulator must be used on either type of supply and must be capable of delivering gas tothe filter on the power supply at 3.5 scfm @ 65 psi (99.1 l/min @ 4.5 bar). To ensure adequatepressure to the power supply, set the regulator to 80 to 100 psi (5.5 to 6.9 bar)."   I guess there are a few ways that can be interpreted, but I thought it meant that I need to use an external regulator set to either 65 or '80-100' psi.  As you know, there's an additional warning about not exceeding 135 psi input, or 'the filter bowl will explode'.  I have a 5 scfm @ 90 psi compressor, which I connect to the Cutmaster basically unregulated ( maximum 150 psi ).  Now I'm not sure what to do when connecting it to the PM30.  I had been turning the compressor reg down to 80 psi.  I don't really understand why, if there's an internal regulator, the manual suggests limiting input to <100 psi.  That's inconvenient if I'm running other air tools, unless I buy an external regulator dedicated to the PM30.  That's stupid, IMO, since I already have a reg on the compressor, and (apparently) one inside the unit.   The power input part, I still can't figure.  Based on the numbers you quoted, I would think both machines would pop the breaker on a 20 amp 120 volt circuit, running at max amps... but neither do.  How much does the draw decrease at 70* versus 104*, I wonder?   Both units are Made in the USA.  I guess it's worth noting that the Cutmaster is no longer produced, and I think the replacement model is now imported.__David Hillman
Reply:There is no noticeable change in current draw at different temps. The temperature is quoted as you must have a baseline temp when talking about duty cycle. Higher ambient means lower duty cycle.Both machines will pop a household 20 amp breaker after some use when operated at full output on 120 volts....the T-D will obviously kick it off first. If you reduce the output current below about 25 amps output on the Hypertherm you can run on a 20 amp breaker. I'm not sure at what level you need to reduce the T-D unit to to operate on a 20 amp circuit for a longer length of time....I would guess it may be at around 21 amps or so.  Amperage draw is based on amperage out x voltage out. If you cut thinner materials, the amperage draw will be less than for cutting thick materials, even if the amperage is set at the full 30 amps....this is because the arc voltage is lower when the arc length is shorter. Drag cutting draws les amperage as compared to standoff cutting....the Hypertherm can drag at all power levels.Sorry for the confusion on the Powermax air supply. Any input pressure between 65 and 135 works. The one in my home shop has been running on full pressure from my shop compressor for over 4 years,  which cycles between 90 psi and 125 psi. The inlet pressure is limited to 135 psi on the Powermax30 based on the internal filter bowl manufacturer rating. I have used 4 nozzles (tips) in 4 years....am on the original electrode and the original swirl ring and retaining cap. There is no start cartridge.Jim ColtLast edited by jimcolt; 10-03-2011 at 05:27 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by jimcolt   Both machines will pop a household 20 amp breaker after some use when   operated at full output on 120 volts....the T-D will obviously kick it   off first. If you reduce the output current below about 25 amps output   on the Hypertherm you can run on a 20 amp breaker.
Reply:Remember....the breaker will need time to cool down after the test!  If you test one right after resetting a tripped breaker for the other....the breaker will likely trip much quicker.You should be able to trip a 20 amp breaker cutting 1/4", easier if you cut 3/8", or hold a standoff distance...which will increase arc voltage.Jim
Reply:Most 'small' air compressors have at least some sort of pressure regulator on the air outlet.  That's pretty much all you need in order to 'feed' the PM.  Set the regulator for the air pressure coming out of the air compressor to somewhere around 100 psi or so (unless you are running some really-really-really long air lines or really skinny (small ID) air lines) and the built-in air regulator on the PM30 does the rest.  No knobs or adjustments needed at the plasma machine.Don't go and 'feed' it either unregulated high-pressure air from a compressed air/nitrogen cylinder or unregulated or an air pressure over 135 psi from an air compressor (for instance a two-stage air compressor running at 175psi out to a distribution piping layout and then right into the plasma cutter -without- a point-of-use pressure regulator).Your existing use of the regulator on your compressor is just fine.  Set the air compressor regulator to 90-100 psi and hook it to the PM30 and cut away.  Just remember that clean DRY air makes the plasma cutter work 'nicer' (and helps the tips to last longer!)PM30 is nice.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseMost 'small' air compressors have at least some sort of pressure regulator on the air outlet.  That's pretty much all you need in order to 'feed' the PM.  Set the regulator for the air pressure coming out of the air compressor to somewhere around 100 psi or so (unless you are running some really-really-really long air lines or really skinny (small ID) air lines) and the built-in air regulator on the PM30 does the rest.  No knobs or adjustments needed at the plasma machine.Don't go and 'feed' it either unregulated high-pressure air from a compressed air/nitrogen cylinder or unregulated or an air pressure over 135 psi from an air compressor (for instance a two-stage air compressor running at 175psi out to a distribution piping layout and then right into the plasma cutter -without- a point-of-use pressure regulator).Your existing use of the regulator on your compressor is just fine.  Set the air compressor regulator to 90-100 psi and hook it to the PM30 and cut away.  Just remember that clean DRY air makes the plasma cutter work 'nicer' (and helps the tips to last longer!)PM30 is nice.
Reply:For what it's worth,  most air tools are meant to be operated at 90psi.  I set my line pressure right about 100 though.  Tank pressure will be higher.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmFor what it's worth,  most air tools are meant to be operated at 90psi.
Reply:Originally Posted by David Hillman because at some point, I'm going to turn it all the way up, in all likelihood.
Reply:Okay, enough talk about air, let's cut some metal.   To give you an idea where I'm at, here are two simple 6" cuts in 1/4" mild steel.  First the Cutmaster, second the Powermax.  Both at 30 amps, drag cut.  For the Cutmaster, I aimed for the 'typical' speed from the manual, which is 20 ipm.  The Powermax manual quotes maximum speed (33 ipm), instead of typical or recommended, so I stuck with the same speed.   There's more dross on the Cutmaster sample, but basically all of that fell off when I scraped a screwdriver down the cut, on both samples.  Both are still rougher than I think the machines are capable of, but maybe I'll get better.__David Hillman
Reply:Next I tried the test mentioned above, to see how long I could cut on 20 amp 120 volt circuit.  Since the Cutmaster should lose this test, it went first.  To my surprise, I lost, instead.  If there's a limit, I don't think it's a practical one for hand cutting.  I couldn't get the breaker to trip, or the temperature light on the unit to illuminate.   I took a 10x25" piece of 1/4" steel, and repeatedly cut along the 10" length, pausing only long enough to look around for fire between every couple passes.  After a few straight passes, I started doing curves, and zig zags to make the passes longer.  All drag cut, again.  Wound up somewhere around 25 feet before I gave up ( that's just a few of the pieces pictured above ).   At around 20 ipm, that's around 15 minutes, and well in excess of the claimed duty cycle.   I'm not sure if I'll repeat this test with the Powermax, since it's unlikely to be informative.  Maybe if I can score some 1/2" scrap.__David Hillman
Reply:If you cut the 1/4" much slower (don't worry about the proper speed to get best cut quality) then the amperage draw will be higher (slower cut speed produces a longer arc, which means higher arc voltage, and more amperage draw on the input line). Or you can hold about a 3/16" standoff when cutting the 1/4".....which will also increase the arc length/voltage.Everytime you stop the cut....the circuit breaker (which has a duty cycle too) gets to cool down. If you are trying to trip a 20 amp breaker....you will have to cut continuously until it trips. I have done it a few times with my Powermax30.....but the cuts on 1/4" were probably about 5 or 6 feet long, and non stop.Here are some cuts I did with my 30 a few years ago when someone wanted to see if it would cut the 3/8" that it is factory rated for.....They are ugly when you get above 1/4", however if you tap the dross off with a hammer...the cuts are pretty nice all the way up to 5/8". My powermax 30 is used most of the time for cutting structural tubing....1/4" wall to length using a jig as a guide (for cutting 45 degree miter cuts).....faster than my horizontal band saw...and much more portable.Jim Attached ImagesLast edited by jimcolt; 10-04-2011 at 07:54 AM.
Reply:David,'Small compressor' is something of maybe 5hp (real motor horsepower, not inflated (Hah!!) 'peak' hp ratings) or less.  Pretty much anything you can run at home or that doesn't use larger 3-phase power or a large engine as the power source is 'small'.  A 'large' compressor might be some 25 hp 3-phase continuous running screw/scroll compressor.    Or a diesel engine running a compressor to run a jackhammer.  That sort of thing.But large or small, it doesn't matter what the maximum pressure that the compressor pump can deliver is, you ALWAYS have to have some sort of regulator to deliver the 'proper' air pressure to the device you want to use.  Because it is pretty rare to have the peak pressure of the pump match up exactly with what the device is supposed to run at.  And it also would cancel out one of the 'benefits' of air tools, where the compressor pump can put higher pressure air into the storage tank and then you can 'meter' out the desired air pressure to the device.Most pneumatic tools are made to run at 90 psi (as mentioned).  Store the air in the compressor tank at 135 or 150 or 175 or 200 psi, but feed the device the pressure it was made and designed for.  Just like Hypertherm is telling you in the manual not to feed the cutter with greater than 135 psi (so you don't blow out the internal filter bowl), you don't want to feed excessive air pressure to other air tools either (so you don't blow out their seals and such).Spray gun at 150 psi?    Your call and your tools.  Also your money and your possible injury if you 'abuse' the tools by not giving them the proper air pressure.  And you are not "wasting" (as you put it) any air pressure by feeding the device its proper air pressure.  Store the air in the tank at 150 psi (or whatever the pump and tank and pressure cut-off are designed and set to), if your air distribution piping is rated for 150 psi then you can put that pressure in there too, but then you have to have a point-of-use regulator to deliver the 'proper' air pressure to the device(s) you want to use.Just like you don't feed a 12V electric motor with 120V, or a 120V motor with 240V, you don't feed an air tool made and designed for 90 psi with 150 psi air.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Ya know what?  Nevermind.  Arguing with people about compressed air is not why I started this thread, but it's all some people appear to want to do.  So go ahead, and continue your harangues here in my absence.  I'm going back to work in the garage.__David Hillman
Reply:Harangue?  Nah.  Notice the smileys and beer in there.  Me, I'll look in the manual and if it says feed the tool 90 psi or no more than 135 psi, then that's what I'll do.You asked and mentioned about running 'unregulated' air pressure to the tools, and said it was a 'negative' for the PM30.  I disagreed and said why, in that all air tools (or air-using tools, as a plasma cutter is) are made to operate on a certain specified air pressure and at that air pressure they need a certain available flow rate in order to work.As to the plasma cutters, so far they look pretty close in capabilities.  As is to be expected, as they are almost the same in capabilites and pretty much in the same performance 'segment'.  The PM30 is a little bit more efficient in power and air usage, and Hypertherm kind of touts their consumable life. PM30 is nice.  I think I mentioned that already.    All that power in that relatively small 'lunchbox'.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Im sure the TD unit would have and input air pressure limit.Im also sure if you shot a quick e-mail to TD they would confirm the upper limit for you.
Reply:dude ....i'd hav to be a tard' to run my paint guns DIRECTLY off my 2 stage compressor.....it'd blow the packings rite out of them.        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:My $0.02, if I were running a shop system, I would have a regulator on each connection. run the compressor at full bore and regulate at the connections. thus allowing deticated connections (like you plan for your plasma) to be regulated without affecting the total pressure of the system.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:hehe, I'd go through alot of airtools with my 2stage 3cyl 240gal compressor at 250psi if I didn't use regulators --Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:well back to the point. I'd say, go with the one you like the best. be it for the price of consumables, or the feel of the gun. "this apple is redder, this apple is heavier, this apple is shinier" they are all apples, and when it comes time to eat, you take the one you like the best.As you plan on selling the other one to a friend. it's not like you couldn't use it for it's benefits (different torches) if you need to.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:No need to argue air pressure. The service manual for the Cutmaster 38....which is available as a free download....says that the maximum inlet pressure is rated at 125 psi. Since the Powermax 30 says 135 psi....both systems clearly have an upper limit on pressure (as do most air tools)....so to meet the manufacturers specifications...each unit needs an upstream pressure regulator. In my shop....since my compressor tops out at 125 psi...I could probably run both without a regulator.David Hillman....how about getting back on this thread and continuing as you were with the side by side comparison of the Powermax30 to the Cutmaster38. Don't let the comments bother you....each shop and each user will have their own set of requirements that will each be a little different.....and that is why each manufacturer  builds their products slightly differently....to try to fill the market withy the biggest needs.As a Hypertherm employee that is involved with new product development....I love hearing what end users like and dislike about plasma cutters. We call this the "Voice of the Customer" , and this is how features get integrated into the next generation of products...by listening to the people that use the systems.Jim Colt   Hypertherm
Reply:Me personally, i would keep the powermax 30. I always swear by hypertherm - seem to make the best plasma cutters out there. Has to be an individual choice though so go with which one you prefer to use.
Reply:Originally Posted by woi2lddude ....i'd hav to be a tard' to run my paint guns DIRECTLY off my 2 stage compressor.....it'd blow the packings rite out of them.The one thing I don't like about the power Max, Is that, the torch has a spring in it, that if, it goes bad will cost you $75.00 to $100.00 to rebuild the head or about $200.00 to replace it!!! and they only warranty it for a year!!!!  They must know it a problem  cause they changed it on the new 65 to the way that the cut master do it !!! I hope they do a retro fit for all the power max's ,Cause, I really like the 45 but not sure if I want that expense after all these thing are not cheep to start with!!!!!SportLast edited by Sport; 01-14-2012 at 05:24 PM.
Reply:To clear up this info:The Hypertherm Powermax torches use a blowback design....which was invented by Hypertherm in the early 1990's. It utilized a spring loaded plunger in the torch body that allows the electrode to move, creating a short circuit spark which ionizes the gas, creating the plasma arc. This was developed to eliminate costly and troublesome high frequency arc starting circuitry in portable plasma systems. The Hypertherm design was very well recieved, and has proven to be extremely reliable over the years with well over 400,000 of these torches operating around the world. Like anything....they occasionally fail from long term wear, from dirty air, or for a variety of reasons. Hypertherm continuously improves the design of their blowback torch as new systems and technology are developed.Most other manufacturers attempted to design their torches around Hypertherm's patented bowback torch....T-D 's version uses a "start cartridge" that effectively bypasses Hypertherm's patents and allows their torch to start without a high frequency generator. Start cartridges are a replaceable component. Many users of the T-D systems have to replace the start cartridges fairly often...at a rather high cost.....the Hypertherm torches do not have this cost.The new style torches (Duramax) that are used on the Hypertherm Powermax65 and 85 and also are available as upgrade torches for the Hypertherm Powermax1000, 1250 and 1650 are nothing like the earlier Hypertherm torches....and certainly are nothing like the T-D start cartridge design! These torches have no moving parts.....as the moving part is designed into the electrode ("Spring Electrode Technology") which is a very clever patented design that increases consumable life, increases torch reliability and lowers the cost of operation (no high cost start cartridge to replace).Hypertherm systems are warranteed for 3 years, torches for 1, the warranty is similar to most manufacturers warranties. The Hypertherm torches are all desgned engineered, tested and manufactured in Hanover , NH, USA. You may want to check where T-D and other manufacturers get their torches!You can easily rebuild most of the older technology Hypertherm torches if you have internal failures (such as a sticking plunger)....they are easy to work on and you can download Hypertherm service manuals for free from the Hypertherm website. Hypertherm torches as well as their plasma systems are well known for their long consumable life as well as their reliability.....and the company builds these systems in the USA, all assembled by employee / owners.Hope that clears any misconceptions!Jim Colt    Originally Posted by SportThe one thing I don't like about the power Max, Is that, the torch has a spring in it, that if, it goes bad will cost you $75.00 to $100.00 to rebuild the head or about $200.00 to replace it!!! and they only warranty it for a year!!!!  They must know it a problem  cause they changed it on the new 65 to the way that the cut master do it !!! I hope they do a retro fit for all the power max's ,Cause, I really like the 45 but not sure if I want that expense after all these thing are not cheep to start with!!!!!Sport
Reply:[QUOTE=jimcolt;560458Everytime you stop the cut....the circuit breaker (which has a duty cycle too) gets to cool down. If you are trying to trip a 20 amp breaker....you will have to cut continuously until it trips. I have done it a few times with my Powermax30.....but the cuts on 1/4" were probably about 5 or 6 feet long, and non stop.[/QUOTE]It's funny.  I never noticed this thread, until I searched tonight for "Cutmaster 38", since I just bought a used one (couldn't pass it up at the price, but to be clear, I'd have chosen the Hypertherm over a TD hands down myself, but I haven't seen a used Hypertherm pop up locally).Anyway, the comment about the circuit breaker got me thinking.Circuit breakers have published time/trip curves.  With some of the thermal/magnetic ones I encounter at work, if you're right on the line at 20A, it might take a continuous 3 hours to get one to trip.  By 25A, it's more like 30 seconds.  By 28A, more like a fraction of a second.The ratings plate on my TD Cutmaster 38 says a maximum of 29A @ 110V, so I just stuck a 240V plug on it, and plugged it into the same socket as my welder.  No tripping breakers for me.   I figure at a full 29A, it would trip pretty fast on 110V.  OTOH, at only 26A, the PM 30 might not trip a good thermal/magnetic breaker (like a Square D QO), simply because the machine's duty cycle limits the run time.