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Hello folks... Love this site, and am often reading (and not posting). I don't have much to offer, as I'm just a hobbyist garage welder.I do have a question for the electrical gurus.As of last night, my 200 won't spin the driver rollers. After much reading, a call to Miller (thanks Kevin!) and some more reading I found that more then likely my CR1 relay is bad. I did clean the contacts, and go through some troubleshooting steps this AM... and actually got the drive rollers to spin and feed wire. Partial success!I know I can order a new relay kit (#122696) for about $90-95. Not too bad, but I'm one who sees the opportunity to save a buck. It looks like the kit comes with a relay, some jumpers, etc. More importantly, an instruction manual on how to replace the open relay with the newer version. I looked and looked for a copy of those instructions, to no evail.Adding to this, I'm not an electrical guy when it comes to AC. But I have found a similar or same relay for $24. Here's a link to it, as it's Allied PN 850-0225 or what I found here; http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70184985 Is there anyone here, who could;- confirm this is truly the relay that would work for my CR1 location?- let me know how to wire it correctly, with either a diagram or some detailed instructions?If not, I understand and will just bite the bullet on the more costly "kit" from Miller. However, I also have to buy some mix as I'm about out, and every cost is putting a hit on my wallet at the moment. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Reply:That relay should work. The connections at the bottom are the coil.Now when you get the new relay look real close at both relays. you will discover that the normally closed set of contacts are in a different place. Keep wires on the left on the left and the right on the right. This way if you get it upside down you will not damage anything. won't work right but nothing will get damaged.Mark your wire C for coil and CL for coil left. S for swinger.(moving arm).NCL will be normally closed left side. mark all wires then move them to the new relay.The jumpers in the kit allow you to connect one of the wires that uses a piggy back connector. The piggy back may not plug into the new relay with out causing a short.Click on my name and send me a P.M. if you need more detailed information.
Reply:Originally Posted by ccawgcThat relay should work. The connections at the bottom are the coil.Now when you get the new relay look real close at both relays. you will discover that the normally closed set of contacts are in a different place. Keep wires on the left on the left and the right on the right. This way if you get it upside down you will not damage anything. won't work right but nothing will get damaged.Mark your wire C for coil and CL for coil left. S for swinger.(moving arm).NCL will be normally closed left side. mark all wires then move them to the new relay.The jumpers in the kit allow you to connect one of the wires that uses a piggy back connector. The piggy back may not plug into the new relay with out causing a short.Click on my name and send me a P.M. if you need more detailed information.
Reply:In advance of its arrival, maybe this will help to understand what ccawgc was describing. Attached ImagesF122716 - Replacement CR1 Field Instructions.pdf (44.4 KB, 208 views)MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:You might pm me,ber 7A749 and see if he has a relay. Better to spend your money here than some other company.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55In advance of its arrival, maybe this will help to understand what ccawgc was describing.
Reply:I decided to copy some of you, and added my toys to my sig. Miller Multimatic 220 (AC/DC TIG/MIG/Stick)... with 150A Spool GunHF Titanium Unl 200 (TIG/MIG/Stick)HF Titanium Mig170 (MIG)Hypertherm Powermax65Oxy/Ace RigJD2 Model4 BenderJD2 Tubing Notcher...etc |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:20:11