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Miller Syncrowave 180 giving me problems

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:19:49 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hey everyone, Great forum, been learning a lot.  I have been fighting with a used Miller Syncrowave 180, manufactured in 2002.  When I first fired it up it was blowing holes through the metal.  After talking with Miller tech support, I narowed this down to most likely being the transducer.  I replaced it, and there was a difference in the performance of the welder, but now that difference is that the welder is only producing a weak arc.  Tech support seems to think I am looking at a board problem, which I may be, but after reading through the forums I am starting to think that it might be my remote pedal.  I tested the potentiometer acrossed pins E & D and got the 1000 ohms, but when testing from C & E, I got nothing, with or without the pedal depressed.  I checked directly at the potentiometer and got the 1000 ohms for the respective wires for C & E, so it is checking out from what I can tell.  Checking continuity from all three wires on the plug, it seems that none give me continuity to pin C, so I think I have a short.  My question is, how do I open up the plug on the RFCS-14 foot pedal?  I took off the screw down clamp but cannot get inside of the plug to fix the wires.  Looking inside closer it does look like the pink wire has a cut on the insulation.Last edited by Bassplar; 08-25-2014 at 10:26 PM.
Reply:Update.  I figured out how to get the plug apart, but it got messed up a little in the process.  Anyone know of a source for a replacement 14 pin plug for the RFCS-14?
Reply:Exactly how is it messed up?Photos?Where are you located?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I had to cut through the outer housing.  It can be fixed with JB weld, but I wouldn't be opposed to replacing the entire thing.  The outer housing was really locked on, and looked like it might have been epoxied or glued together by the previous owner. No photos offhand, I can take some when I get home though.  I am in the Chicago area.Last edited by Bassplar; 08-26-2014 at 07:23 AM.
Reply:They are easy to take apart. remove the clamp bars. put back in receptacle and turn off clamp housing. wires can be soldered back to the pins. Takes a AMP pin removal tool to take pins out. Takes a AMP crimping tool to install new pins on wires. Or you can replace the whole plug with a metal Plug that you can solder on the wires.available from most on line electronics stores.
Reply:What kind of potentiometer is it ? My miller is missing the potentiometer and idk what to replace it with
Reply:I got the piece apart and ordered a new plug.  @5670873, call Miller tech with your model number.  They will give you the correct part number.  With that you can order it or find a cross referenced aftermarket piece if it is available.
Reply:Thing is they don't know the specs and I didn't want to pay the 200 bucks for a dollar part ...from what I remember it was 15k 10ohm potentiometer I ordered a few with different specs I'm going to try
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