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Tying pickup to bed of flatbed truck

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:18:46 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I have a F450 with a 16' flatbed.  I was thinking about buying a S10 and hauling it up north on my truck.  I figure I could load it on a flatbed wrecker and drive it onto my truck from the wrecker.  The big deal would be how to tie it down so it doesn't come off.I have a wood floor on my truck.  I am wondering what I need to do to make sure it doesn't come off. (or if this is even a god idea)Thanks,
Reply:If the structure of the bed is wood and not just the decking I say don't do it. If the structure is steel then it would depend on the construction.  Either way, probably not a good idea.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:is it a factory flat bed  or fabed by you or a welder ,usually chains will go into stake pockets and hook back on out side . maybe you can find a drive in loading ramp and skip the wrecker .
Reply:Steel frame, good wood deck no problem. Chain binder on each side of the rear axle. One on each side of the front suspension. Lower control arms. NOT the steering linkage, tie rod ends, drag link, etc.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Back end, we used to chain to the frame hitch on the 250 when we tied it to the 15 ton trailer. If the pintle hitch was in the receiver that was another good solid tie down point.  Front end was always to the two frame mounted D rings..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Sounds plenty sturdy to carry that small truck. Good luck with it.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Attach your tie downs to the frame of the S-10, not the suspension components. That way there is no suspension bounce/rebound from the carried vehicle. I have seen vehicles being carried on trailers or trucks where the wheels or axles were used for tie down points, and every time  it hits a bump you could see the carried vehicle bounce up and down IN ADDITION to the bouncing of the truck/trailer. If I move a vehicle on a trailer/truck, I tie to the frame of it and tighten it down so that the suspension doesn't bounce around in addition to the transport vehicle's suspension.
Reply:Originally Posted by CraboI have a F450 with a 16' flatbed.  I was thinking about buying a S10 and hauling it up north on my truck.  I figure I could load it on a flatbed wrecker and drive it onto my truck from the wrecker.  The big deal would be how to tie it down so it doesn't come off.I have a wood floor on my truck.  I am wondering what I need to do to make sure it doesn't come off. (or if this is even a god idea)Thanks,
Reply:Car haulers  tie down on chassis ,so the cars don't bounce and hit each other or the trailer frame . but you can use either frame or axles  as long as it can't hit the cab
Reply:I have seen when going to the frame, the suspension will still bounce some... When it compresses the chain/strap will loosen up. So if you go that way youd better tighten it all the way down.- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:Go to Northern Tool web site, search for "T hooks"...... One at each corner of S10Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkQualified & experienced at welding scrap metal
Reply:Originally Posted by little JeepGo to Northern Tool web site, search for "T hooks"...... One at each corner of S10Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:When loading something with wheels, it's generally a good idea to bridle it.  Chains at each axle, one on both sides of the axle, pulling towards front and rear.  This keeps it from rolling, and will keep it from moving sideways.  In this case the chains are attached front and rear of the load.  Here the chains are attached to the inside of the loadBut pay attention to the direction of pull on the chains.........always opposed front/rear.  It locks it up tight, and it will not roll.Check the chains after the first half mile, tighten them, then check every time you stop for food or fuel.  There's always a slight twist on a bed when you load, and the chains will generally seem tighter than they are until you re-tighten them after driving that half mile."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Another trick if you are loading equipment is to raise the buckets up before you chain the machine. The weight of the buckets usually causes the tires to squat some and when you set the buckets down, that adds even extra tension to the chains.I had one helper who had a hard time understanding this no matter how many times he'd watch me chain/ unchain the backhoe. He'd come and tell me he couldn't get the binders loose, even with the 6' pipe. I'd walk over the to machine and get in and start it, and raise the backhoe bucket even with the roof of the cab. Then I'd get out and pop the binder by hand and loosen the chain. Then I'd either roll the machine forward slightly to take the tension off the front chains, or raise the front bucket and pop that binder by hand.With tracked machines I'd chain the one end, then crawl forward slightly to tension the chains, then get out and chain up the other end, then go back and put the binders on the 1st end in case we needed to tighten that for some reason..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
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