Painting and lacquering steel

admin

Hey guys, I have a steel plant stand I designed and welded up. I want to paint part of it and leave the rest raw steel and lacquer the whole thing. Should I coat the whole thing in lacquer first and then paint the part I want painted or should I paint the section first and then lacquer over it. Any advice or help is appreciated!! -John
Reply:Mask and paint first. Lacquer everything second.2c..-Niche
Reply:Thanks niche, appreciate it.
Reply:are you spraying everything? post some pics. sounds cool.
Reply:If you want to keep the color true- use a Clear Enamel as lacquer will throw a little yellow tint on it. And it dries faster.make sure that the color has cured for at least 24-48hrs.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1If you want to keep the color true- use a Clear Enamel as lacquer will throw a little yellow tint on it. And it dries faster.make sure that the color has cured for at least 24-48hrs.
Reply:this is what I spray on my raw steel that does not go to powder coating for clear. This stuff is bullet proof. you can sand and buff & polish it too. http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC_p_45.html
Reply:This will only work if the paint is also a lacquer as well, lacquer on top of enamel paint will give you the dry lake bed effect.
Reply:Hey guys, so I used a product called Permalac EF DTS (second one down the list - yellow on label) in satin as that's what they had at the local steel supply store I frequent. A guy that was in line in front of me was buying it and said it was awesome and that he'd been using it for a long time so I thought I'd try it.  I wire wheeled the entire piece with gloves on. Followed this with a really good wipedown with acetone and then a wipe down with a tack cloth  (still with gloves on). Then I just brushed it on with a synthetic bush. It was already dry to the touch within minutes of applying and doesn't appear to be flaking in the least. Never lacquered anything in my life but it seems like a good product. I'll post pictures soon when it's completed. Fingers crossed!
Reply:I usually just wipe down with a rag to remove loose debris then spray paint with Rustoleum clear coat. Gloss clear coat makes it look like raw steel with a finish, flat clear coat looks just like raw steel. And they both dry in less than a minute.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:That is a great idea Econdron and one I hadn't even considered! Maybe next time I'll try it to see the results.
Reply:Hello,If I want to get it done outsorce, is it recommended?
Reply:If you're outsourcing it, I would go with a clear powder coat. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Reply:jransomYou are describing a color over the phone;big waste of time & print . . .Too many variables - please post pics.Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by jransomHey guys, so I used a product called Permalac EF DTS (second one down the list - yellow on label) in satin as that's what they had at the local steel supply store I frequent. A guy that was in line in front of me was buying it and said it was awesome and that he'd been using it for a long time so I thought I'd try it.  I wire wheeled the entire piece with gloves on. Followed this with a really good wipedown with acetone and then a wipe down with a tack cloth  (still with gloves on). Then I just brushed it on with a synthetic bush. It was already dry to the touch within minutes of applying and doesn't appear to be flaking in the least. Never lacquered anything in my life but it seems like a good product. I'll post pictures soon when it's completed. Fingers crossed!