How to cut 1 inch hole in 1/2 inch metal

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Is there anything out there that will cut a 1 inch hole in 1/2 inch metal that will chuck into my drill press. I don't have a 1 inch drill bit but was hoping some kind of hole saw is out there for metal. Any help is appreciated.
Reply:It could be done with a good bi-metal hole saw.  Put your drill on the slowest speed, and use LOTS of coolant, but a drill bit would be a faster alternative.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Bimetal hole saw would work just fine. It might even be a better option for a smaller/faster drill press because it's removing way less metal.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Silver and Demming drill bits have the shanks turned down to fit into drill chucks.http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ct_13784_13784Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:I have been using the bimetal hole saws to go through 1/4" steel and I've been pleasantly surprised how well they did.  A half inch shouldn't be a problem, keep some oil on it and back it out frequently to allow the chips to clear out. Of course, run the drill press on it's slowest speed.Ken
Reply:With a hole saw, drill a couple smaller holes just barely inside the circumference to allow the chips a place to go using gravity. Swarf is your enemy (heat) here.This has been stated many times before.
Reply:I have an assortment of bits called Steel Hogs.  They chuck into a handle oiler  arrangment that chucks into the drill press.  They are like hole saws, but more like milling devices.  Can handle metal up to like 1 1/2 inch thick.
Reply:There are three ways I have done it. Here they are, starting with cheapest first working up by more costly options;First question how many holes, for a couple of holes a carbide tipped hole saw works OK, I have had no success with straight steel. Even with the carbide use lots of coolant or tapping fluid. Everything above 1 1/4 inch I do this way ( see below )The step bits mentioned before work well for medium quantity of holes work up to the 1" run a 5/8 then 7/8 if you have them first, use lots of fluid. 1 inch is the hairy edge on step bits, above that your drill press or mill will get to chattering, as these are really too big for the press. I do it all the time, but clamp well, tighten all three sides of the chuck, cut slow and work up to the big hole like I suggested. When I said you get chattering its a combo problem, the 1/2 chuck isn't really heavy enough for hogging out big holes, and the average drill press is just not beefy enough to do this reguarly, as above 1" is really done better on a morse tapper. Again I do up to 1 1/4 on mine, but there is a big difference every 1/8 of an inch above 7/8' how well this works, I stop at 1 1/4 on this as its just too tough after that. The brand I use are Norseman for two reasons, available locally, and quality USA made: http://www.norsemandrill.com/Reduced_Facep35.htmlThe last two methods are much better ways to drill holes but both require good ( pricey ) tooling, but will do a lot of holes. First is a annular cutter on a mag drill, I have been looking at making or buying an adapter for my Jabobs tapper for a weldon ( annular ) shank. This with coolant will cut a lot of holes.And last is a punch, if your doing a lot of holes this is the fastest easiest option. My steel yard charges about $10 to punch a few holes when I buy steel, which makes this both the most expensive option ( if I was buying the punch ) and the cheapest if I just have it done. Punch usually doesn't work on tubing ( it can with a specialised backing fixture ) but for flat stock it can't be beat for a lot of holes quick. One downside to punching is it distorts the metal if your looking for a very flat no distortion piece this is not the best option.
Reply:Buy a set of Rotabroach annular cutters, they are under 30 bucks for a single cutter or buy the set for 130 or so...they go from 7/8 to 1 1/2 on the bigger set  or 3/8 thru 7/8 on the smaller set and that is about 70 bucks. I get mine from the MAC tools guy and pay more but he warranties them. They are the best cleanest cutting method you will find, and a single size is probably less than a comparable SD drill. With lube they last a long time as long as you keep a good feed pressure and slower speed.Also Jancy has an adapter for using annular cutters in the drill press. I see good deals on annulars on Flea-bay all the time. The adapter runs about 130 bucks but if you are drilling holes frequently it will save a ton of time and dont need to dig out or buy the mag drill.Last edited by Coupebuilder; 05-19-2012 at 11:50 AM. "Anybody can talk $h!t behind a monitor, I let the quality of my work speak for itself"Lincoln Square Wave 255 and 355 Tig Lincoln 255 Power-Mig w/ spool gun Koike 5 x 10 CNC plasma Hyd-Mech DM-10 bandsaw Ineco QB-76 NC tube bender
Reply:Another option is if you're close by a member, I'm sure someone would make the holes for you for some beer. If they have to have a 'milled' finish, or if someone with a circle cutter can just plasma the holes for you. Putting your location in your profile will help with that. If you're close to me, I know I wouldn't mind making a few holes for another member.Miller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders
Reply:If you're making fewer than 100 holes, then a bi-metal hole saw is a no-brainer.  You don't really need coolant to go through half an inch -- some cutting oil would be plenty (in my opinion), and absent that any kind of lubricant would do it.  Make sure the press is running at its lowest speed.  It's a very easy cut to make.  And a bimetal hole saw will set you back all of $5 or $6 at HD.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenIf you're making fewer than 100 holes, then a bi-metal hole saw is a no-brainer.  You don't really need coolant to go through half an inch -- some cutting oil would be plenty (in my opinion), and absent that any kind of lubricant would do it.  Make sure the press is running at its lowest speed.  It's a very easy cut to make.  And a bimetal hole saw will set you back all of $5 or $6 at HD.
Reply:Originally Posted by Old SkoolThe correct answer condensed into one paragraph, some guys really must like to type.
Reply:Originally Posted by CoupebuilderNo information regarding the original post whatsoever...you are 100% correct...some guys really must like to type
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1The same holds true for cutting oil.
Reply:Cutting oil is a high pressure lubricant. I buy it at use-enco.com . I usually use tap magic for pretty much everything out of a small oil can.Miller: 200dx, Bobcat 225, Passport, Powermax 45, Milwaukee: Dry Saw, MagDrill, grinders
Reply:Originally Posted by k45Okay, here's your chance:   educate me (simply) about cutting oil.   Where do you get it?   Is it significantly better than plain old oil?Thanks,Ken