Need help with 7018 cap 2G

admin

I'm working on a project for school, it's a GTAW root, with 7018 cap, all done in 2G position. The root I have down pretty well, but then I go to fill it out with SMAW and my welds start to slump towards the bottom of the weld. I'm using a syncrowave 250, at 120 amps, DCEP, dig set at 50, 1/8 inch electrode, the base material is 3/8 inch A36 plate that's about 6inches by 8 inches with a 30 degree bevel on both plates to form a V. I've been careful to keep my arc length as short as possible. I'm using a weave to fill the gap up, and even if I pause on the top piece, the weld metal always flows to the bottom of the puddle. Is this a speed issue? do I need to slow down and pause longer at the top of my weave? I can't provide pics yet, I apologize for that.
Reply:You should never weave when welding in the horizontal position. Always run stringers and stack them on each other. Ensure each pass on top of each other flows down evenly into the pass under it. I like It a bit hotter than what your using for amps. Keep your rod angle square to the piece, then drop your hand just a wee bit to point the end of the electrode ever so slightly upward.Ensure the top pass is done with a very short arc or you will get undercut. You can also use a very slight  J motion to ensure no undercut on the top pass if you have to. Pausing a second at the topLast edited by snoeproe; 09-08-2014 at 07:20 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:that's not speed, that's gravity. You can try weaving on a 45 degree angle, will help some. Stringers work better.
Reply:Sorry it took so long to reply. These are the results of the test. We're expected to weld, and then inspect it. Thanks for the help! I got a solid grade on this weld. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Never heard of weaving in 2G, but I've never been in a tutored environment.Should be a straight drag with the rod at an angle you're comfortable with.  I use a 45 degree angle upwards, with a slight back angle on the drag (maybe 5-10 degrees) mainly to keep ahead of the puddle, and to remove any tender body parts out from under the dripping slagThere's 2 different techniques going on here..........The top weld is a straight hot drag at about 125amps, 1/8 Excalibur.  The material is ground to a V bevel beneath the weld, approximately as wide as the bead, and about 1/4" deep or slightly less.The bottom weld is made with a slight oscillating motion somewhat side to side to keep the heat out of the knife edge on the lower part of the joint (lower weld is a joint between 1 1/2" square tubing, and the open "C" edge of a piece of channel).  This is allowed, as long as it's not a whipping motion which removes the arc from the face of the puddle.  85-90amps, 3/32 ExcaliburI would think a weave, in the 2G position would be the same as whipping.  It would take the arc out of section of the puddle for a time, and possibly allow slag entrapment.  A weave in the vert position isn't as problematical though, because the heat will burn out the slag because the weave is slower, and gravity + heat will do the job for you.  Personally, I prefer stringers in the vert position as opposed to a weave, but that's up for debate"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/