SA200 - What Next!!

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Well, hadn't done anything with "Ol' Yeller" (yep-bought used-bright yellow..gotta change that one of these days) other than crank it up and let it run for 20-30 minutes about every 2 weeks over the last 4-5 months. Illness and family issues sometimes just throw us a wicked cruve every now and then. Anyway, was gonna help my son build some new pens, cranked 'er up, idle switch on high, let it run about 5 min., switched to auto. idle; idled down...that's the good part of this entry. Went to strick a arc..won't idle up. Welds on high ok. Seems like where ever I look on the thing, old wire cracked or connection just doesn't look right. I had already replaced the Alternator and starter wiring, and since it seemed to run ok didnt mess with the other stuff. So how do I fix it? Go to my welding site and check all the info and entries on sa-200's. Bound to be a answer in there some where. Re-did wiring from solenoid to PC board. No change. Cleaned all contacts and the little supports on PC board. While pulling wires of PC board, traced the one that goes to reed switch, "bottom" half of reed switch fell out..thing was broken! Dang! what else now! Off to Chris's Welding in Odessa (2nd time this week) with solenoid, PC board, and broken reed switch in hand. PC board bad, solenoild good but wires brittlle. Left the welding shop with new solenoid, new reed switch, good PC board, new thermostat, hoses and plugs and wires. So this time I won't be hoping the wireing and things I can fix are left undone. So wish me luck. Without the info from this forum I wouldn't have a clue as to where to start on the troubleshooting part. Also, Chris's keeps all the parts in stock and has been a great help also. Know we are a long way from nowhere, but I would recommend him!  Just wanted to blab abit..sorry for the long post!!! j/r
Reply:Plug a drill or grinder in the outlet, it should rev up, if not check your exciter brushes to make sure they're not stuck. Also you may want to clean the armature. Mine was doing the same thing and I had to end up changing my brushes.
Reply:Here's what I did today..sorry if I repeat something..I did clean the armature with a cleaning stone, brushes have plenty of life left in them ( that was done when I first notice I was having problems). And while trying to mess with high/low rpm was when I noticed a leak in one of the radiator hoses. Removed top cover, gas tank, and battery. Completed all the wiring just a short while ago. Whereever there was a connection..got a new wire. I did not remove the generator cover, just found a good place on the wires coming out the top of the generator and splice each wire with new wires. Where wires were grounded to front frame, remove the screws, clean all rust from frame area, installed new screws..bolts and nuts would correct term I guess.Mounted PC board, before mounting board, cleaned all tabs and cleaned rust from area the board mounted to frame. So tomorrow, will put gas tank, battery (with new cables). Then re-adjust all governor and carb. linkage. Maybe it will work..let ya know tomorrow evening.
Reply:Thought I would post the latest, "Got'er Runnin!". All the updates completed, reset all the linkage, low idle 1000/1050, high idle 1550. Haven't ever noticed this in any of the post on the Sa -200; but another check for low/high idle is to have 40 volts out at low idle and 90 volts at high idle, if you don't have a tach the voltage will get you pretty dang close. Anyway, everything looks to be ok for now.
Reply:I can usually set the low idle ocv's to about 28, but if the exciter end isn't working properly it may not rev up. just adjust up a little more till it will rev up. As far as the high speed if u dont have a tach u should always set it by using the receptical voltage. 117.5 to 118 vdc. That is where the machine should be set at. Then if it still doesnt burn a rod good (for pipeline use) adjust the rack.