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I have a problem with overhead stick. I can do 1G 2G and 3G with no problem day in day out but I can't do over head for my life. No matter what the amps or the arc length the bead never looks right. Anyone know what's wrong? I'll do alittle overhead tomorrow at school and post a picture tomorrow to show you guysEdit: I forgot to mention that we only use 7018 and 5P+ 6010 for overhead with/without backingLast edited by bbertb; 10-19-2014 at 06:45 PM.
Reply:As with all SMAW, it's all about rod angle, and arc length. Pictures will help.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPAs with all SMAW, it's all about rod angle, and arc length. Pictures will help.
Reply:What are you welding? What type of joint?JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeWhat are you welding? What type of joint?
Reply:Originally Posted by bbertbMy rod angle is usually straight up and down or a slight drag angle maybe 10-15 degrees
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThat sounds about right. Which direction are you traveling?Here is an over head open root with 7018 I did years ago.
Reply:One point is you have to remember to push that rod up - it feels like pushing because gravity isn't helping you drop your arm like in the flat position.If you don't constantly raise your arms (push up) you will intermittently long arc and screw it up.I don't like dragging to me on overhead - I know it's common and lots of guys like it - but if I can, I like to look from the side like I do for every other position when able.Your weld should look the same as welding flat. I like a zero to 5degree drag.See if this video helps you out and have fun http://welding-tv.com/2012/07/17/arc...ith-7018-rods/Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by bbertbusually dragging it towards me
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveOne point is you have to remember to push that rod up - it feels like pushing because gravity isn't helping you drop your arm like in the flat position.If you don't constantly raise your arms (push up) you will intermittently long arc and screw it up.I don't like dragging to me on overhead - I know it's common and lots of guys like it - but if I can, I like to look from the side like I do for every other position when able.Your weld should look the same as welding flat. I like a zero to 5degree drag.See if this video helps you out and have fun http://welding-tv.com/2012/07/17/arc...ith-7018-rods/
Reply:keeping a short arc is a key.you seem to have to rod angle worked out.try to push the rod up gently as to gently touch the flux of the rod on the work piece.so that you can just feel it touch.G
Reply:Originally Posted by gordfraserkeeping a short arc is a key.you seem to have to rod angle worked out.try to push the rod up gently as to gently touch the flux of the rod on the work piece.so that you can just feel it touch.
Reply:Originally Posted by bbertbSee I always thought it was bad to have it touching. I always kept it maybe 1/16 off. Is that too much?
Reply:Originally Posted by bbertbSee I always thought it was bad to have it touching. I always kept it maybe 1/16 off. Is that too much?
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI often have the flux lightly touching as well on 7018. Same for 6013 and 7014.
Reply:bbertbAgree - short-arc and riding-the-flux is key to developing superior skills.I you can't weld flat and vertical without flux contact - you are not ready for over-head.Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERRObbertbAgree - short-arc and riding-the-flux is key to developing superior skills.I you can't weld flat and vertical without flux contact - you are not ready for over-head.Opus
Reply:You didn't say what doesn't look right about them. A little description or some photos would help us help you. You also didn't mention what you are using for a machine or settings, and now might be a fine time to check your settings especially if you have controls such as on the sae 400 and others.
Reply:Overhead is pretty hard. PeriodYou don't have to do it this way, but here's how I do it.First get comfortable. Number one thing is to feel confident that you're not going to drop hot slag on your body. I wear a leather jacket when I do overhead. It allows me to concentrate on the weld without worrying about getting burned. I very often have my brace arm directly below the weld if I feel that this is the most stable position.As I just said.........get a good braced position if you can. Do a dummy dry run with your arm and rod to see where you're gonna wind up as you make the pass. This tells you if you are set right with enough freedom of movement.Now for rod angles....You need a slight drag angle to keep ahead of the puddle. The arc force will keep the puddle in check with this angle.Point that rod almost straight up into the joint. (I've used a fillet joint here as an example, it's about the most common joint out there).You CANNOT keep the rod pointed at the root all the time as you drag. You must do a gentle side to side motion to fill the bead. If you do keep the rod pointed at the root, you'll wind up with a very narrow bead that doesn't cover the proper throat area. It's like a very mini mini weave. Any movement away from the root has to be just enough to make the metal flow into the toe that's away from the root. Remember, gravity works, and you're just trying to do enough to widen the bead. It will droop on you if you stay on the outside toe too long.Travel speed is pretty important. Watch the puddle, and travel just fast enough to keep the puddle building (sagging) without spilling the metal. Don't go too fast, or you'll get a thin bead, and little penetration. This part is really about practice, and running a lot of rod.Always try to view the puddle from the side (head facing the joint). It's very hard to look thru the arc from behind the rod, and really can't be done until you've had a lot of practice. It's also good to see the puddle from behind (head slightly behind the weld looking at the puddle with the arc going away from you). Of all the angles, I feel that looking from the side is about the best. Some practice runs to check out different rod brands (Hobart v. Excalibur). Go around the piece, grind out the welds you've made, then go around it again. Just stacking welds won't teach you crap. You need an actual clean first pass fillet to develop your technique. Stacking comes later. Real world fillet/lap joint attaching a spring hanger to a semi trailer.I'd say that about 95% of all welding is out-of-position. If you can't do this, you're in a real world of hurt when it comes to large weldments. You simply can't flip everything to weld it. At some point it gets to big to flipI almost forgot AMPS Run overhead at the same amps as you would a good hot flat weld. Around 85amps for 3/32 7018, and around 125amps for 1/8 7018. You'll find the range that's most comfortable, and I'll bet it gets higher as you progress with your practice, and get better at it."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammOverhead is pretty hard. PeriodYou don't have to do it this way, but here's how I do it.First get comfortable. Number one thing is to feel confident that you're not going to drop hot slag on your body. I wear a leather jacket when I do overhead. It allows me to concentrate on the weld without worrying about getting burned. I very often have my brace arm directly below the weld if I feel that this is the most stable position.As I just said.........get a good braced position if you can. Do a dummy dry run with your arm and rod to see where you're gonna wind up as you make the pass. This tells you if you are set right with enough freedom of movement.Now for rod angles....You need a slight drag angle to keep ahead of the puddle. The arc force will keep the puddle in check with this angle.Point that rod almost straight up into the joint. (I've used a fillet joint here as an example, it's about the most common joint out there).You CANNOT keep the rod pointed at the root all the time as you drag. You must do a gentle side to side motion to fill the bead. If you do keep the rod pointed at the root, you'll wind up with a very narrow bead that doesn't cover the proper throat area. It's like a very mini mini weave. Any movement away from the root has to be just enough to make the metal flow into the toe that's away from the root. Remember, gravity works, and you're just trying to do enough to widen the bead. It will droop on you if you stay on the outside toe too long.Travel speed is pretty important. Watch the puddle, and travel just fast enough to keep the puddle building (sagging) without spilling the metal. Don't go too fast, or you'll get a thin bead, and little penetration. This part is really about practice, and running a lot of rod.Always try to view the puddle from the side (head facing the joint). It's very hard to look thru the arc from behind the rod, and really can't be done until you've had a lot of practice. It's also good to see the puddle from behind (head slightly behind the weld looking at the puddle with the arc going away from you). Of all the angles, I feel that looking from the side is about the best. Some practice runs to check out different rod brands (Hobart v. Excalibur). Go around the piece, grind out the welds you've made, then go around it again. Just stacking welds won't teach you crap. You need an actual clean first pass fillet to develop your technique. Stacking comes later. Real world fillet/lap joint attaching a spring hanger to a semi trailer.I'd say that about 95% of all welding is out-of-position. If you can't do this, you're in a real world of hurt when it comes to large weldments. You simply can't flip everything to weld it. At some point it gets to big to flipI almost forgot AMPS Run overhead at the same amps as you would a good hot flat weld. Around 85amps for 3/32 7018, and around 125amps for 1/8 7018. You'll find the range that's most comfortable, and I'll bet it gets higher as you progress with your practice, and get better at it.
Reply:First get comfortable. Number one thing You CANNOT keep the rod pointed at the root all the time as you drag. You must do a gentle side to side motion to fill the bead. If you do keep the rod pointed at the root, you'll wind up with a very narrow bead that doesn't cover the proper throat area. It's like a very mini mini weave. Any movement away from the root has to be just enough to make the metal flow into the toe that's away from the root. Remember, gravity works, and you're just trying to do enough to widen the bead. It will droop on you if you stay on the outside toe too long.Sound advice here. Just how I do it. I start by pointing my rod more toward the top piece which in this case is the backing strip and pull the puddle down to the lower piece with a very slight oscillation. I will pull an overhead toward me if I have to but I do weld structural steel on a daily basis also.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveOne point is you have to remember to push that rod up - it feels like pushing because gravity isn't helping you drop your arm like in the flat position.If you don't constantly raise your arms (push up) you will intermittently long arc and screw it up.I don't like dragging to me on overhead - I know it's common and lots of guys like it - but if I can, I like to look from the side like I do for every other position when able.Your weld should look the same as welding flat. I like a zero to 5degree drag.See if this video helps you out and have fun http://welding-tv.com/2012/07/17/arc...ith-7018-rods/ |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:16:34