Home Made tig cups

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Id like to make my own larger cup for more gas coverage for when i need it and have seen several people make them out of different materials; I've also seen the large ck pyrex cup but would rather make my own. Im having a hard time sourcing the mesh stainless screen WITH what looks like a bronze insert in the center where the tungsten goes thru; I've posted a picture that shows what I'm talking about. The center insert almost looks like a small rivet. Just a fun little project that id like to do is all. Anyone care to post pictures of their home made cup?Learning the ropes....
Reply:Just buy the bigger cups and spend your time welding. About half way down the page in the link are large dia eter pyrex cups. No sense in reinventing the wheel when good wheels are already cheap.http://www.usaweld.com/TIG-Pyrex-Cups-Kits-s/67.htm
Reply:thing is i don't want the pyrex cup...do you know if i can use another cup on that ck setup thats not pyrex?Learning the ropes....
Reply:Are you OK?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:That is a gas saver kit from ck worldwide.  They all sell gas lense kits in standard or stubby version that use the standard cups.
Reply:Originally Posted by superchargedv8Anyone care to post pictures of their home made cup?
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveWhen you use a homemade cup you end up like this guy......
Reply:SS mesh is on eBay. I use 24 series collets as guides for the tungstens.  Not really worth the trouble unless you're bored.Last edited by Oscar; 10-31-2014 at 09:56 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYeah...That's what the end result is....Not a happy time.......zap!
Reply:How does one clean a pyrex cup?30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanHow does one clean a pyrex cup?
Reply:That is what I figured Dave.  Too advanced/expensive for me at my level of learning.   30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanThat is what I figured Dave.  Too advanced/expensive for me at my level of learning.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I have a couple of them, and still prefer the standard gas lense with a number 8 cup.Besides, you so much as tap it against something after it gets hot and you're buying a new one.Ask me how I know that
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749  Ask me how I know that
Reply:Whenever I see that Mr. Tig with his corncob sized Pyrex cup in hand I want to smash it with a hammer.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarSS mesh is on eBay. I use 24 series collets as guides for the tungstens.  Not really worth the trouble unless you're bored.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Besides, you so much as tap it against something after it gets hot and you're buying a new one.Ask me how I know that
Reply:btw i have a gas lens setup up to a number 8 already..but i want a larger size to get into hard to reach spaces with stainless.Learning the ropes....
Reply:Originally Posted by superchargedv8btw i have a gas lens setup up to a number 8 already..but i want a larger size to get into hard to reach spaces with stainless.
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarWhat size torch?
Reply:Sorry to burst your bubble... but you don't need a huge cup.It might help if you're welding titanium, but you're not.You can't just stick a huge *** cup on a little collet body or gas lens, it doesn't work. Buy a champagne tig cup and see for yourself. The CK jumbo pyrex design is the correct way of doing it because it has an appropriate diffuser, but like I said unless you're doing titanium it's completely unnecessary and makes welding much harder because it's enormous and gets in the way.Trying to make your own ghetto gas lens/cup is a strange way to waste time lolLast edited by MikeGyver; 11-01-2014 at 03:15 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Why? Just why? Why would you try to build something and as said, reinvent the wheel when things are mass produced and cheaply acquired?Welp, that is enough stupid and internet for today.  Going to watch tutorials on underwater basket weaving.14' PowerMig 210 MP13'Burntables 5x10 CNC Table14' SAE300 HE on a 12' Ram 4500 60 CA 4x4. Custom bed/bottles/reels.87' SA250d, 78 SA200,11' Ranger 250 GXT AC/DCThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 8112' Lincoln Precision Tig 22508' LN25
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverSorry to burst your bubble... but you don't need a huge cup.It might help if you're welding titanium, but you're not.You can't just stick a huge *** cup on a little collet body or gas lens, it doesn't work. Buy a champagne tig cup and see for yourself. The CK jumbo pyrex design is the correct way of doing it because it has an appropriate diffuser, but like I said unless you're doing titanium it's completely unnecessary and makes welding much harder because it's enormous and gets in the way.Trying to make your own ghetto gas lens/cup is a strange way to waste time lol
Reply:Originally Posted by TheJackalWhy? Just why? Why would you try to build something and as said, reinvent the wheel when things are mass produced and cheaply acquired?Welp, that is enough stupid and internet for today.  Going to watch tutorials on underwater basket weaving.Originally Posted by superchargedv8ok,what do you suggest i use for my application?
Reply:16 gauge 321 stainless steel for a turbo manifold. The collector to be specific.Learning the ropes....
Reply:You don't need anything custom made for that, actually for turbo manifolds you want the smallest cup you can get. Never heard of 321 stainless either. Also a motor head. BTW that is thin for a manifold, most of us use sch 10. Good luck.14' PowerMig 210 MP13'Burntables 5x10 CNC Table14' SAE300 HE on a 12' Ram 4500 60 CA 4x4. Custom bed/bottles/reels.87' SA250d, 78 SA200,11' Ranger 250 GXT AC/DCThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 8112' Lincoln Precision Tig 22508' LN25
Reply:huge cups are even more useless in merges where argon is more easily contained anyway.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:so i really don't need one then...hmmm. I thought i did but i guess all the larger homemade cups I've been seeing are for titanium stuff. Ill stick to what i have now then....ThnxLearning the ropes....
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverhuge cups are even more useless in merges where argon is more easily contained anyway.
Reply:If color is what you want in manifold, I suggest you get a big cup kit, can be purchased from different places all depends your cash flow. Arczone or rad welding supplies. I personally use the toxic fab/ rad welding supplies cups when building manifolds. Do some research https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...I7_HjD_bYnXXPA
Reply:A #8 cup on a small gas lens is about all I ever use for anything. I've been welding deep in a merge and have stuck the tungsten out as far as about 1.5" (although needing to do this is extremely rare). I never even turn the flow past 20cfh. Argon is like 2.5x heavier that air so position it so the argon fowls downward onto the area you want to shield.I've tried the monster cups and they are almost never worth the hassle/drawbacks.These merges are 30degrees total (15deg each side) and I only had to stick the tungsten out like 3/4" to get the end of them. The area is so contained and tight that this amount of stickout is nothing. If you tried using a jumbo pyrex cup to get in there you'd have to stick the tungsten out inches because it's so big, and then you're just trying to displace the atmosphere too far away from the cup, and you'd need a huge amount of argon.Last edited by MikeGyver; 11-02-2014 at 05:16 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Take a look at the cups Mike Furick is making (mfurick here on WW and instagram)He sent me one of his Fupa Turbo cups and it's awesome. http://www.dogfab.com/Cup_Kits_and_Pricing.html
Reply:Mikegyver, what works for you may not work for this guy. If a bigger cup helps him then that's what he needs. Zt, Thanx for the link, nice cups
Reply:Originally Posted by That Guy ThereMikegyver, what works for you may not work for this guy. If a bigger cup helps him then that's what he needs. Zt, Thanx for the link, nice cups
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverJust sharing some of the tips that I've learned in making thousands of stainless headers.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabTake a look at the cups Mike Furick is making (mfurick here on WW and instagram)He sent me one of his Fupa Turbo cups and it's awesome. http://www.dogfab.com/Cup_Kits_and_Pricing.html
Reply:Originally Posted by superchargedv8 I think I'm not moving along at the correct rate for the given amperage i was using and have come to the conclusion that i need to focus on heat input ex.how fast/slow I'm moving for a given amperage setting. I believe i have the basics down I'm just working on trying to add rod and make it look nice.
Reply:To all the nay sayers that talk smack about the big cups all i can say is you are not open minded enough to realize there is a time and place for everything. There is a million ways to skin a cat as there is with welding results and techniques. Dont spew shlt when you weld the same crap everyday using the same material and techniques. It's a big world out there!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by rgfab242^^I think you're onto it here. I like to weld stainless hot and fast. Avoiding excessive heat build up. If you feel like the part is getting too hot, take a break for a min to let the heat dissipate or use shop air to cool it down. What size filler are you using? On 16ga tube I would use a .040" filler. There is a guy on YouTube (Fritzkat) that has a couple of excellent videos welding 321 stainless headers. Maybe you could check those out to get an idea of the pace.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeTo all the nay sayers that talk smack about the big cups all i can say is you are not open minded enough to realize there is a time and place for everything. There is a million ways to skin a cat as there is with welding results and techniques. Dont spew shlt when you weld the same crap everyday using the same material and techniques. It's a big world out there!
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeTo all the nay sayers that talk smack about the big cups all i can say is you are not open minded enough to realize there is a time and place for everything.
Reply:Now now, let's all play nice both the Mike's I've seen pics of your work and both of you guys are good welders. Let's not get in a dicck measuring contest. I personally use whatever it takes to weld my merges whether it's my #18 cup down to a #7.
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverThat's exactly what I said in my first 3 posts. If you've actually tried, you'd quickly realize that excessively big cups actually make welding merges much harder with no benefit. I say this based on my actual personal experience with many of the big cups. There are indeed a million ways to skin a cat but they're not all the best/fastest/easiest/most practical/etc.lol wtf, yeah when seeking advice don't take it from an expert who specializes in, and everyday does the same thing you're trying to do... That only makes his insight all that less valuable  wow...Kinda seems like you might be the one who is "spewing sh|t" and not even adding anything to the thread. And if you're trolling, you're not even doing a good job at it, try it somewhere else.
Reply:This message goes to ztfab. Does that clear cup stay clear and how tough are they? I wanna get one. I was just talking to Ryan at baisleys high performance today about them.