Dialarc HF Cart

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Ok guys, I'm finally ready to start building a cart for my Dialarc HF, Coolmate 3, and 2 cylinders. The attached picture shows the design but I'm looking for "professional review" so I can cut down on the redo BS. It wil. Have lead hangers, etc also but I don't want to detail any of that until the basic structure is built. Let me know what you think and what you would change.Thanks!GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:I would use large like 12-14 inch wheels on the  back but step it down for the cylinders. Check out Surplus Center for wheels and casters. Might want to check out like a red wagon type axle and handle for the front if you move it a lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DI would use large like 12-14 inch wheels on the  back but step it down for the cylinders. Check out Surplus Center for wheels and casters. Might want to check out like a red wagon type axle and handle for the front if you move it a lot.
Reply:One thing I did on my dual cylinder cart was to weld a piece of 1 inch pipe verticle centered in front of the cylinder , behind the welder. Into that I took a piece of 1 inch rod bent into an L about 3.5 feet by 1 foot with a stop welded on the 1 foot end. I slip that into the 1 inch pipe and when its down its a cord hook. I drilled a 3-8 hole thru it that would sit on the pipe if raised about 1.5 feet over the cylinders. I then use one of those little 1-4 ton chain comealongs to raise the cylinders on and off the cart. I have a cylinder cap I welded a ring onto for lifting cylinders. Saves the back when changing out the big cylinders.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Here is a machine I owned prolly ten years ago. It is roughly the size of your Dialarc HF.Just to give you an idea. It was one of my earlier designs. Not that I'm some expert now, but I've built a few since then and learned a few things. This cart originally had steel hub rubber tires from Harbor Freight on it.Yeah, they flattened on me. It was a PITA to fix, but adding the phenolic wheels solved the problem. I believe these were ten inch by three. I've gone to using either retaining collars or snap style captive pins to keep the, on instead of nuts. Shaves a couple inches a side off the footprint. I used one inch bolts for the axles since it was a legged cart ad I didn't want an axle going thru the bottom. I've since gone to using axles since it's a little less work getting both sides exactly the same to avoid the problems that come from the cart sitting crooked or teetering because the wheels aren't all sitting on the floor at the same time.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DOne thing I did on my dual cylinder cart was to weld a piece of 1 inch pipe verticle centered in front of the cylinder , behind the welder. Into that I took a piece of 1 inch rod bent into an L about 3.5 feet by 1 foot with a stop welded on the 1 foot end. I slip that into the 1 inch pipe and when its down its a cord hook. I drilled a 3-8 hole thru it that would sit on the pipe if raised about 1.5 feet over the cylinders. I then use one of those little 1-4 ton chain comealongs to raise the cylinders on and off the cart. I have a cylinder cap I welded a ring onto for lifting cylinders. Saves the back when changing out the big cylinders.
Reply:I can see how you had a hard time deciphering it. I had a hard time describing it. I always had the cap for loading cylinders on a truck and for getting them on upper levels in buildings. Much safer than trying to choker them. It works good on the cart for me since any time I need help coworkers scatter like roaches when you turn the light on.
Reply:I'm looking forward to seeing your cart being built, Gravel.I might have to build one for my S/wave 250....
Reply:Hey, Gravel.Just my opinion, but for my Syncrowave 250, I have the welder in front and the cooler behind (Like Steve said, I don't like water on top of my welder). Then I leave the 330 tank chained to the wall and use a long (25') gas hose. That is a lot of weight to pull and more importantly TO STOP! Unless you have a huge shop or plan to move around a lot, leave the bottle stationary. Opinions are worth what they cost!! Be interested to see your new cart.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtHey, Gravel.Just my opinion, but for my Syncrowave 250, I have the welder in front and the cooler behind (Like Steve said, I don't like water on top of my welder). Then I leave the 330 tank chained to the wall and use a long (25') gas hose. That is a lot of weight to pull and more importantly TO STOP! Unless you have a huge shop or plan to move around a lot, leave the bottle stationary. Opinions are worth what they cost!! Be interested to see your new cart.
Reply:Ok, so I have a bit of a redesign in process but I'm looking at wheels and am thinking about using 8"-12" pipe to make them from.I'm going to try to leave work early enough today to go to my steel supplier and see if they have something I can use but wondered if anyone had any other suggestions that don't cost an arm and a leg. Phenolic 8" would cost me close to $200.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:I see used scaffolding wheels for $10-$15 per wheel on occasion.But wheels made from pipe would work too.I've used the two rear big tires for push mowers (about 12" or bigger by memory) on my torch cart for over 15 years.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I have the same machine and built this cart for it.  It works well for me, but I don't move it around a whole lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI see used scaffolding wheels for $10-$15 per wheel on occasion.But wheels made from pipe would work too.I've used the two rear big tires for push mowers (about 12" or bigger by memory) on my torch cart for over 15 years.
Reply:Originally Posted by 69BroncoI have the same machine and built this cart for it.  It works well for me, but I don't move it around a whole lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelOk, so I have a bit of a redesign in process but I'm looking at wheels and am thinking about using 8"-12" pipe to make them from.I'm going to try to leave work early enough today to go to my steel supplier and see if they have something I can use but wondered if anyone had any other suggestions that don't cost an arm and a leg. Phenolic 8" would cost me close to $200.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Don't forget I have some pieces of heavy wall pipe about that diameter to make steel wheels from that you could have if you're passing by.  Could probably fix you up with hub and spoke material too.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelThanks for that! Do you have any problems with flat spots on them? They say they are "hard rubber" so maybe they are less prone to developing flat spots.
Reply:X100. I've got smaller casters on one of my carts and it is a PITA. GO BIG!!!!!!!!!!!!  Originally Posted by M J DI would use large like 12-14 inch wheels on the  back but step it down for the cylinders. Check out Surplus Center for wheels and casters. Might want to check out like a red wagon type axle and handle for the front if you move it a lot.
Reply:Sweet cart. If it were mine I would have to put an automatic hydraulic dump on the table. Keep me from putting too much crap on it. Set it to dump every 20 minutes or so. I do like your locking casters. Originally Posted by 69BroncoI have the same machine and built this cart for it.  It works well for me, but I don't move it around a whole lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessSweet cart. If it were mine I would have to put an automatic hydraulic dump on the table. Keep me from putting too much crap on it. Set it to dump every 20 minutes or so. I do like your locking casters.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DI would use large like 12-14 inch wheels on the  back but step it down for the cylinders. Check out Surplus Center for wheels and casters. Might want to check out like a red wagon type axle and handle for the front if you move it a lot.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelThat was the first thing I thought of when I realized what I needed.  I also need to bring you this argon bottle. I'm trying to figure out when I can get out that way.  Might be worth a special trip vs buying something.
Reply:Space saver spare tires with a unit type hub-bearing work good especially if you need to go outdoors.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Look on eBay. I've never paid even close to that for big phenolic wheels.Originally Posted by duaneb55No worries on the cylinder and if you're willing to meet my son at I-10 and 146 I might be able to talk him into taking them with him on his way back to SA this weekend.  I could throw in what I think you might need for spokes and hubs too.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DSpace saver spare tires with a unit type hub-bearing work good especially if you need to go outdoors.
Reply:Oh, and I really appreciate all the help so far. Been a rough couple of days in my world and my brain firing right.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelWhen is he coming through? I'm up in the air on the phenolic vs steel because of the price. Also have to consider what the steel ones would do to my garage floor (it is conveyor belt material).
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DIf its soft like rubber belting you will need a pneumatic or a very soft wheel. Steel would be a nightmare on anything softer than wood.
Reply:It's heavy. I've got an antique factory wagon I'll give you if you are willing to pay freight. Otherwise I'd get some Tractor Supply pneumatic wheels or something capable of serious weight.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I have some steel wheels off a miller cart, may be able to ship them to you in a flat rate box. I'll have to look at them
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BIt's heavy. I've got an antique factory wagon I'll give you if you are willing to pay freight. Otherwise I'd get some Tractor Supply pneumatic wheels or something capable of serious weight.
Reply:I'd guess $100.00.
Reply:Your thread made me change direction, i have the exact same equipment dialarc 250 (orange version  ) and a coolmate 3. was planning to put cooler on top.My shop floor is pretty rough and i don't like to vibrate my old machine on hard wheels, i have golf kart wheels the tires have been filled with urethane and i'm trying to figure a way to do things once and for all, usually ( for me) the best or better ideas are known after the job is done i drafted this incomplete sketch but for you with 2 bottles and wanting to keep it as narrow as possible it's probably just food for brain storming a little longer   these "running boards" could store the pedal, it's not finished  brackets are to design (i'm waiting to see if something better comes up from here)
Reply:I like where you are going!Consider the idea of angling the machine like a MIG stolen! GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:I like where you are going!Consider the idea of angling the machine like a MIG stolen!
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelI like where you are going!Consider the idea of angling the machine like a MIG stolen!
Reply:Originally Posted by snowbirdYou're welcome, the main reason was to put less load on the front wheels and using the empty space under the dialarc, unexpected bonus is i will not be able to use it as a table (read pile junk over it) i'm an expert at it
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelDamnit! Now I have to redesign again to keep up my street cred! UGH!
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelWhen is he coming through? I'm up in the air on the phenolic vs steel because of the price. Also have to consider what the steel ones would do to my garage floor (it is conveyor belt material).
Reply:Mine didn't exactly have a cart. I've been looking for good pictures. I sold mine to Tuscany, When he got set up he posted some good pictures of it showing the "wagon". As I recall it used the frame of the welder as the frame of the cart. the rear was a flat plate that must have bolted to the welder. It had triangular  axle supports welded perpendicular to it. A solid axle with cotter pins held 2 6?" diameter plastic or hard rubber wheels. I think it stepped down, protruding to the rear with a shelf perhaps two inches above the floor. At the top of the welder the saddle attached with bolts to support the top of two tanks. The front was a similar plate bolted to the welder base with a bolt & castellated nut with cotter pin serving as a pivot. Front wheel assembly was a beefier version of a child's Radio Wagon. My eyeballs aren't working tonight. I'll look for a better picture & see how good my memory is. I can draw it, and fax. But I'm too dumb to post a drawing. Maybe Mrs. B. will show me how.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Just talked to him a little while ago and it looks like he'll be heading home later tomorrow afternoon or evening.  I'll give you a call when I have a better idea.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BMine didn't exactly have a cart. I've been looking for good pictures. I sold mine to Tuscany, When he got set up he posted some good pictures of it showing the "wagon". As I recall it used the frame of the welder as the frame of the cart. the rear was a flat plate that must have bolted to the welder. It had triangular  axle supports welded perpendicular to it. A solid axle with cotter pins held 2 6?" diameter plastic or hard rubber wheels. I think it stepped down, protruding to the rear with a shelf perhaps two inches above the floor. At the top of the welder the saddle attached with bolts to support the top of two tanks. The front was a similar plate bolted to the welder base with a bolt & castellated nut with cotter pin serving as a pivot. Front wheel assembly was a beefier version of a child's Radio Wagon. My eyeballs aren't working tonight. I'll look for a better picture & see how good my memory is. I can draw it, and fax. But I'm too dumb to post a drawing. Maybe Mrs. B. will show me how.
Reply:I found the wagon! Not worth the shipping to me. I could build something close enough but im going a little different direction, especially with the cooler under the welder. Really appreciate the offer!http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...61#post3943461GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelIt looks like I'm going to be tied up with either work or a 5 year old's birthday in Tomball. I'll get with you soon. That way I can bring you that bottle too. Thanks Duane!
Reply:Here's the cart I did for mine it came free with my welder I modified it shortend it up and built a better lead hanger for my cords. I'd like to add a top to it at some point. Attached Imagestrailblazer 302 spoolmatic 25a with wc-24thermal arc 161s tig rigmillermatic 200dialarc 250 hf tig rig with spool gun and boxand wanting more......
Reply:Keep in mind this is a hog. It'll be seriously top heavy.
Reply:weather is bad, so i'm trying to improve my drawing "skills" and simplify the work too. being low budget google sketchup is my friend i don't have the patience or knowledge to master a big bucks software. Still a lot to improve so if anyone has suggestions or want the sketchup file, they're welcome. By the time i'll finish the drawing the Op's cart will be rolling. (frame is tubing 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x .125)
Reply:I'm thinking about putting the big wheels in the middle of the sides and centering a swivel caster in the front and back. I would build something that could be flipped down as a brake to keep it from moving on its own.  Not a big fan of tricycle gear (except on airplanes) because of tipping but the way the weight would be distributed it would be very difficult to tip this machine.  I'll post a pic once I get the time to draw it.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.