Cleaning ancient oil off machines

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I recently aquired a mill and lathe that haven't been operated in close to 20 years, but received a light oiling every two to three years. The oil has hardened up and become sticky, almost like masking tape adhesive and is tough to get off . I started off with Wd-40 which is breaking most of it down, but not all. Then I noticed the quill return of the mill was sticking at the 1 inch mark so I pulled it apart and found the grease on the gears was also gumming up. I got the parts of the quill assembly cleaned up and want to pull the bearings out to inspect and clean but I can't figure out how to get the assembly apart. I got as far as removing the snap ring and backing out two set screws on the side of the quill. One set screw was tiny and the other acts as a plug with another set screw behind it on the rotating shaft within the quill body. Does anyone know how to remove the bearing assemblies? Should I remove the bearing assemblies or is there an easier way to clean it out? Attached Images
Reply:naptha and a bristle brush has always worked well for me, or kerosene.When any government, or any church for that matter, undertakes to say to its subjects, "This you may not read, this you must not see, this you are forbidden to know," the end result is tyranny and oppression, no matter how holy the motives.
Reply:Kerosene would be my choice..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Lacquer thinner
Reply:Since you aren't in CA, I'd highly recommend Berrymans B-12 Carb and Choke Cleaner, some thick gloves and respiratory protection.  I haven't come across an oxidized oil yet that the berrymans stuff wouldn't take down.Not affiliated, just like to talk up good products
Reply:Leave the quill alone until you are adept at working with the precision of that assembly! Those quill bearings, if like those in a Bridgeport, are high doller, much higher precision than what you have probably ever run across, matched and best left undamaged by unskilled paws. Clean what you can do easily and wait on the rest. I don't know you well enough Mark, so please don't take this as criticism. I'd much rather see you using the mill soon than waiting on repairs of your repairs. Now, if you are skilled enough to make this a minor job, have at it!The setscrew combination is most probably for the R-8 taper spline...again, if it is like a Bridgeport.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Gasoline. [/thread]Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Too busy to write much earlier Mark. The set screw hidden behind another set screw is to index your collets, tooling shanks, or whatever other R-8 piece you are inserting when you install them in the quill. Take a look at any of your collets or other tooling and you'll note a lengthwise keyway spline...that's where that set screw rides. I've read differing opinions on the set screw or lack of same. Mine works, but I doubt I'd spend much time or effort to replace it if it ever wears down or shears off. It may make all the difference in your mill's design though.As far as the bearings go, I'd check to see if they are running freely. You should be able to either download the Jet manual if you don't have it or do the same for a like model mill, maybe Grizzly if they sell one similar. Owning a Jet lathe, I can tell you that Grizzly and Jet often interchange on the major parts and there isn't a whole lot of difference between them other than cost, paint color and the occasional bell or whistle. Also, the Grizzly manual for a similar lathe as my Jet is at least twice as informative. Take this with the caveat that an older Jet mill may share nothing in common with a newer model Grizzly machine and what I've said bears revelance only to what I've come across in the past 5-6 years. As far as the bearing go, with reference to a Bridgeport J-head older model belt change mill, the spindle/quill would be lubricated with light spindle oil and not grease. As a generalization, and that is what it is, I would say not to use grease on a milling machine as it quickly becomes a grit/swarf magnet and unless used regularly will dry out and cause problems. Sort of like using high detergent or non-detergent oils...one works best with an oil filter the other works best on engines/machines without a filter and only equipped with a sump to let the impurities in the oil seperate out. The detergent would keep impurities trapped in suspension either until they pass through the filter or pass innumerable times through the machine/engine without a filter. Now, why Bridgeport in their infinite wisdom installed grease zerks on the tables of their mills I can't begin to answer other than to say that I hope either the bean counter or designer would made that choice now resides in his own special section of Hell! As far as the quill return...it isn't a drill press. Mine is full manual because the spring is sacked. I may never find a reason to replace it. BTW, while I can't say a thing about the quality of the cast iron in your mill due to its age...gut feeling is that it is better quality..., but the cast iron in a newer Jet lathe is two steps above petrified panda poop. Watch yourself on that quill!Don't know if any of this will help you out, hope so.Last edited by WyoRoy; 07-26-2012 at 02:28 AM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:For degreasing:  a company, ZEP produces a product called Big Orange.  Spray it on, rinse off with water.  It is, hands down the best product available on the market for degreasing.  It does require a smidgeon of scrubbing but it is the fastest least effort product on the market.
Reply:Ok, no need to tell me twice; I know when to leave well enough alone  I just put the snap ring back in.I put the quill assembly in a clean bucket and filled it half way with clean kerosene and worked the bearings until the sound changed to dry bearings. Then I switched to a bucket half filled with mineral spririts to rinse out the kerosene and it's now sitting on the bench drying. Both buckets darkened up so I know I rinsed the worst of the old oil out.Both machines have many "silver buttons" for oiling, but there's no clear way on how the gears would get oiled. Should they be greased again the way I found them?How do the bearings get oiled? I plan to dip the quill in a oil bath before putting it back in the machine, but how does it stay oiled after that? Does the glass oil holder on the top perform that function?I have 2 different oils that came with the machines. I presume I should use the spindle oil to dip the quill in before re-assembly. Should I be concerned about the age of the oil? Attached Images
Reply:The best degreaser that I have ever used is Wab engine and chassis degreaser. You just have to be careful with it.http://wabchemicals.com/index_files/Page503.htm
Reply:Mark,I believe you're on the right path! The right container of oil contains way oil which has properties that cause it to both stick around onto wherever it is applied as well as remove the slip-stick....or is it stick-slip??? action of typical lubricants under heavy load. That container would be used for other than spindle bearings to keep your mill's table, gibs and assorted gearing lubricated. The left is spindle oil.The drip oiler is indeed the method for lubricating your mill's spindle. It is a total loss system in that the oil works by entering the top, lubing the bearings while operating and then passing on through the spindle and quill to dribble impurities and oil onto your mill's table. Shut the petcock off after use and the oil will last longer!As for greasing the gears? Your guess is as good as mine without a manual. If you have one, check out the recommendations. Personally, I'd use the grease. Inside the mill's head would be one of the few places I wouldn't mind seeing grease as there is little chance of the grease either picking up swarf while machining or drying out due to either inactivity or exposure.Last edited by WyoRoy; 07-26-2012 at 10:59 AM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Mark,Visualize stick-slip by thinking of the action of a wet plate of glass on a marble countertop. Transfer that action, or inaction!!!, to the ways, or bearing surfaces, of your mill's X and Y axes. The suction and temporary adhesion/temporary jerky release is addressed by your way oil. The other properties of the way oil are its excellent adhesion to the bearing surfaces...think ways again...instead of drooling off quickly and leaving those bearing surfaces dry and absorbing abuse.The 'silver button' oil port are spring ball oilers. Personally distasteful to me since mine usually, on a much newer Jet machine, aren't of a quality manufacture and tend to bind up and become unworkable. Although it would have cost a bit more and cluttered up the machine area, I would have much preferred flip-top Gits oilers instead. Still, better than the grease zerks on the Bridgeport meant for oil. I had to convert a handheld mini-grease gun for that operation.Last edited by WyoRoy; 07-26-2012 at 11:58 AM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.