6011 vs 7018 slag

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Excuse my lack of knowledge, newbie here.  Anyways, I was doing a bunch of practice beads the other day with 1/8 6011 and 1/8 7018 and I noticed 6011 slag is much harder to remove.  On the 7018, all I had to do was run the chipping hammer along the side and it all came off (and I often here if you are doing really good it will peel itself of).  However, on the 6011 beads, the slag was very hard to remove, and only was taken off by a couple passes of the wire wheel on a grinder.  Is it something im doing wrong, or is this just a difference of the electrodes?
Reply:not really, thats kinda normal what you described
Reply:Is it possible to make a 6011 bead look as "pretty" as a 7018 then?
Reply:i'm not going to say it not possible, but i havent seen it, and dont think i will.      you can get it to where you can chip it a couple times and make a pass or two w/ a hand brush though
Reply:Originally Posted by LeviCIs it possible to make a 6011 bead look as "pretty" as a 7018 then?
Reply:Knowing your settings and rod size would help as far as knowing why the slag was hard to remove. Typically 6010/11 is run at about the amps of the next size down 7018., so you'd use about 90 amps for 1/8" 6010/11, and 90 amps for 3/32" 7018.As far as looks, I've seen a very few people who can make 6010/11 beads look close to 7018 beads, but they are the exception to the rule..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:There is part of a 7018 cap on a piece of 3inch, the rest of it is 6010.  1/8 60103/32 7018As for amps I'm not really sure I run my sa200 in 3rd gear 120-190 amps.  I run the 3/32 7018 at 40 on the fine current.  I have also noticed that the Lincoln jet weld 7018 the slag is really hard to knock off regardless of heat or travel speed.   We've been running the excaliburs and it just falls off most of the time with very little effort.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWKnowing your settings and rod size would help as far as knowing why the slag was hard to remove. Typically 6010/11 is run at about the amps of the next size down 7018., so you'd use about 90 amps for 1/8" 6010/11, and 90 amps for 3/32" 7018.As far as looks, I've seen a very few people who can make 6010/11 beads look close to 7018 beads, but they are the exception to the rule.
Reply:Originally Posted by LeviCI was running 70-150 on coarse adjust and 5-6 fine adjust on a miller bobcat 225g which I believe is around 110-120 amps, DCEP.
Reply:Originally Posted by BWTWe also have a miller bobcat were I'm working, seems no matter what you do the 7018 slag is hard to get off.  I've tried multiple settings I think it might just be a bobcat thing.  We also have a little max star 150 and at 120 amps the slag falls right off idk.  IMHO a bobcat is a fence building/carport building machine... I've used several and I don't like them for pipe welding at all.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by LeviCI was running 70-150 on coarse adjust and 5-6 fine adjust on a miller bobcat 225g which I believe is around 110-120 amps, DCEP.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou didn't mention rod sizes. 110-120 is on the high side for 1/8" 6010/11. That may account for why the slag on 7018 comes off easy, as you are close to the "zone" for 1/8" 7018, but find 6011 slag a bit harder to remove. Try dropping the amps some and see if it helps.
Reply:I do t weld with 6011 much, could they have been AC only?  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by BWTI do t weld with 6011 much, could they have been AC only?  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by LeviCI thought Electrode numbers are, first two/three = thousands of psi, 3rd/4th number = position, 4th/5th number = current.6011 being 60,000psi, all position rod that works on ac, DC+ and dc-
Reply:Originally Posted by 12V71Yup. you got it right. Are you using Brown or White 6011? The white 6011C cleans more easily. Still a power brush job though. Nature of the beast.
Reply:4th digit is the electrode coating
Reply:Originally Posted by iongar4th digit is the electrode coating
Reply:Originally Posted by LeviCI thought Electrode numbers are, first two/three = thousands of psi, 3rd/4th number = position, 4th/5th number = current.6011 being 60,000psi, all position rod that works on ac, DC+ and dc-
Reply:Originally Posted by LeviCWhich you can know current from; in this case (6011), high cellulose potassium is the coating and runs on ac, dc+, and dc- .
Reply:Personal preference, but I think a whipped 60XX bead looks better than 7018.  With the fleet of Bobcraps I run , I like 8-10 on the fine for 5/32 6011 and 1/8 7018.  Let the bead cool a bit , than drag the chisel end over it, a wire brush should get the rest.
Reply:I was having a hard time chipping slag with 6011. So I just cranked up the welder 5-10 amps, and it was easier to get off!
Reply:Originally Posted by JessI was having a hard time chipping slag with 6011. So I just cranked up the welder 5-10 amps, and it was easier to get off!