how would you

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I was thinking today and I was wondering how some one would transition from welding say a 1/16th gap to a 1/8th gap without stopping? is it possible or should some one stop and restart ( I know it weakens the weld). just curiousMullets&Pullets
Reply:What's wrong with stopping? Your restarts should be seamless anyway.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Learn to read the puddle..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Back-step weld it. Weld the 1/8" gap first, then weld the 1/16" gap.More information should be included about the specific scenario...is it thick plate, or thin sheet metal? What process? Etc...Rich
Reply:no situation I was just thinking about it.. not somthing im doin, it just ran across my mind during my day dreams.Mullets&Pullets
Reply:What process, material thickness?  Pretty routine with stick.  So stick weld it.
Reply:Originally Posted by 1AgKidI was thinking today and I was wondering how some one would transition from welding say a 1/16th gap to a 1/8th gap without stopping? is it possible or should some one stop and restart ( I know it weakens the weld). just curious
Reply:Originally Posted by 1AgKidI was thinking today and I was wondering how some one would transition from welding say a 1/16th gap to a 1/8th gap without stopping? is it possible or should some one stop and restart ( I know it weakens the weld). just curious
Reply:one other thing is weld the bigger gaps first when part is cold as when part gets hotter it is even more difficult to fill big gaps
Reply:Originally Posted by 1AgKidI was thinking today and I was wondering how some one would transition from welding say a 1/16th gap to a 1/8th gap without stopping? is it possible or should some one stop and restart ( I know it weakens the weld). just curious
Reply:Originally Posted by WNY_TomBone other thing is weld the bigger gaps first when part is cold as when part gets hotter it is even more difficult to fill big gaps
Reply:I have to do that quite a bit with my ****ty fitter I had at the project I'm at now. He works so slow that it's pointless for me to tell him to redo the bevels, so I just have to go with it. I do mostly carbon or chrome pipe with TIG, and I've been bumping up my amps from usually running around 95 to 105. Most of the stuff I weld in quarters on the root, hotpass and a couple more passes depending on the thickness, so most times there isn't too big of a difference in the weld gap for each quarter. But when it does get tight, for full penetration you have to keyhole the root, which means you let the torch melt the edges of the bevel in front of your bead so you get kind of a round hole opened up, which essentially is widening your gap. Then you can dab your rod in or if you get a good rhythm going, you can lay the rod on the forward edge of the keyhole and it will flow around the edges of your hole and into your bead. Or if I don't feel like fkn with it, I'll just dry wash the bevel open with the torch before welding it.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldSparksGuess you have to make a judgement call as conditions suggest.  I generally weld the tight spots first to make sure I get through and then hope for shrinkage to tighten the gap if need be.  If the gap is still troublesome wide, I find that by jumping around and working each way off the areas you have been able to weld is a good way to fill the gaps.