Just bought a Lincoln Weldanpower Code 8705 R ?

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What is it telling me? Is it a date code or...? I have seen that what code is it is always asked here when questions on these come up. Has B&S 16 hp engine. Not sure what options. Not sure how to tell. Switch has AC, DC+, and DC-, I figure that is just for the welding part. How do you tell if it has the Constant Current, or that other one that everyone asks about but my mind is blanking on? I don't see anything with those lables, so I am assuming this doesn't have them.Are the online manuals from Lincoln Code specific, or model specific, or some sort of inbetween?Can you tell I am in way over my head? Here are a couple of pictures, not sure if they will help or not. Is there a "Weldanpower for Dummies" book? Going back to searching for answers now.Thanks,Russ Attached Images
Reply:The AC, DC+ and DC- are the welding polarity settings used for different type rods.  The Weldanpower units are Constant Current welders which means just that - output current remains constant while welding whereas arc voltage varies with arc length.  Stick and TIG welding require CC power supplies that come in gas driven versions like the Weldanpower and many types of electrically powered units as well.The "other one" is Constant Voltage and means just that as well.  CV units are used for MIG welding operations.The manuals are code specific as are parts lists.  Here's your unit manual.http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...t.aspx?p=31683To help you understand it's operation, I suggest you download the manual and read it through.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:every thing in Lincoln land is keyed to the code number.Do not be afraid to call lincoln and ask for more information. even though the owners manual is for your code number, it might also cover 5 or 6 others. so ask for the wiring diagrams from lincoln for your code number. be sure to include the R on the end of the code number.It means the factory installed an option when they built it. ask them what the R stands for.Have fun and look for loose, broken and corroded wires and connections.Make a list of everything you need. A lot of the parts are no longer available from lincoln.Don't want to buy a lot of parts, and not be able to use them because you need one more important part that you can't get. You may even have to make some of the parts you need.
Reply:Thanks to both. I think the best place to start is to get the engine running. The seller thought it needs a head gasket, becuase when you crank it you can feel air. I don't know, going to have to hook up a battery to it, put some gas in the tank, and see what happens. It does spin easily, hopefully it isn't too easily meaning no compression. Got a lot of work ahead of me. Then I get to find out if I can even weld. :-)Russ
Reply:Is the code in fact a date code, or something totally different? IOW, was my welder made in 1987? If not, how can I tell the date?I am asking because I was just searching weldanpower here, and found a post where someone said they had a 55XX code, and thought it was built in the 60's.Oh, and probably not the smartest thing to do, but I got impatient, and put some gas in the tank and hooked up a car battery to it. Did not even crank when the button was pushed. I think it may be the battery needing charged, or the battery cables on the welder, they don't look very good. Funny thing is I am a Ford car guy when possible, and this has a Ford style starter relay in it. :-) At least I have a clue about that much of this thing. Thanks,Russ
Reply:I should have been in bed a couple of hours ago, but have been re-reading both Duane's and Ken's threads on their rebuilds of weldanpowers. got a couple of questions.1. Should I try to clean mine? I don't have a pressure washer or a truck with a bed(have an SUV). so can I use something like a spray can of engine cleaner and just an ordinary house water hose to clean it? Should I use the cleaner, or just water, and is there any places I need to avoid? I also do not have an air compressor, so it will have to air dry. 2. What shade of red did you use to paint yours? I tend to favor the Rustoleum being in Ohio where everything rusts. I am not intending to do a full restoration like you guys did, but who knows? If I can make sure it runs and welds, then I might go ahead and make it pretty. I just want to make sure it works before spending the time and money.Thanks,Russ
Reply:Originally Posted by russ69coupeIs the code in fact a date code, or something totally different? IOW, was my welder made in 1987? If not, how can I tell the date?I am asking because I was just searching weldanpower here, and found a post where someone said they had a 55XX code, and thought it was built in the 60's.
Reply:Thanks. I wish I could rent a power washer. I need one for my project car also.I keep forgetting I do have a small(very) air compressor, it might work to blow things off. It is a campbell hausfeld that walmart was selling for about $70 a while back. Single tank, holds 1.5 or 2 gallons I think. Looks like a toy version of their bigger ones. :-) It will air up about a tire and a half before empty. Works really well as an airbrush supply though. A real air compressor would overtax the electrical in this place. We just rent, so upgrading isn't an option. Hence the desire for the weldanpower in the first place:-)will keep your carb info in mind. first thing is to get the starting system going. have to dig out my dvm and start taking measurements. And thanks for the link to the serial number site. I am going to have to go out and write mine down. I can't read it in the pictures I took so I wouldn't have to do that. Russ
Reply:Can anyone tell me where I would find the date code on the engine? It is the B&S 16hp. I didn't see anything on the big label, course my eyes are not the best. Thanks,Russ
Reply:Right here.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Cool, Thanks!The briggs and stratton website wasn't real helpfull, too many possible locations. Wish I was at home so I could find it. Russ
Reply:Another question. Anyone know about how much these things weigh? I am looking at carts to put mine on, since I can't build one before the welder is working (assuming the weldor works, which is yet to be determined, I will be learning on this). And the Lincoln wheel kit for this is long oop. Thanks,Russ
Reply:Guess there is a time limit here on editing posts. Anyhow, been doing more reading. And that brought up another question. Is separating the engine from the rotor the same on the Briggs and Stratton engines as it is on the Onan? I think my slip rings are ok, but I need to clean them up and use my eye loupe to make sure. Yes, my eyes are getting that bad. :-( Thinking it might be easier to clean and inspect them with it apart. Thanks,Russ
Reply:Yes, the Onan and Briggs seperate the same but I can assure you it's not easier to clean the slip rings by seperating the engine from the welder.  If you need more room to access them, I suggest you remove the brush holder assembly (two bolts and a couple wires) instead.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Ok. I was thinking about my fat fingers :-) Mainly I was just preplanning in case I end up having to take it apart.Thanks,Russ
Reply:Either way, you'll have to take the brush holder assembly out anyway.  If you don't before attempting to seperate the engine from the welder, you'll damage the brushes.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Understood. I am hoping not to have to separate them, but if one of the slip rings is broke it doesn't sound like I have a choice. I need to get the service manual for this I think. Wouldn't have to ask so many questions here.Any idea on the weight of these?Thanks,Russ
Reply:well, that is interesting. I went out to move some stuff so I could get the car back in the garage. had to move the battery I just charged, so figured why not. I cleaned the terminals to shiny metal on the battery and on the cable ends. Still nothing. so I remembered something from the Ford stuff, and jumped the positve straight to the starter. Got a few sparks, but nothing else. Could be a bad starter, or could be I just didn't have a good connection at the starter end. This isn't in a good position to work on that side. Then I noticed the interesting thing. The starter relay is cabled backwards from how it should be(at least on a car, thinking it should be the same here). The side connection that should be coming from the battery is hooked up to the starter, and the starter side is hooked up to the battery. I don't think it is physically possible to work this way, but am willing to be proven wrong. Think I am going to have to hook the welder back up to the engine hoist, and reposition it so I can get at both sides. I couldn't tell for sure, but it also looked like the starter cable may have been painted at the starter, I just need to get to it and give it a good once over. I may not know welders, but I have LOTS of experience with this type of starting system. I also saw the engine numbers where Duane was showing them, I just couldn't read them. Need better light and my eye loupe. :-(Russ
Reply:Just a quick update regarding the "R" after the code. The Lincoln rep who responded to my request for wiring documentation said that the R didn't stand for any options. He thought it had something to do with the unit having a replacement label put on at some point, which doesn't seem right to me, but he works for them. I just went and pulled up the email. here is the part about the R---"Our records don't indicate an "R" being used for an engine welder option.  There is an "R" stenciled at the beginning of the serial number field of a replacement nameplate.  Often the code number precedes the serial number on the nameplate.  It is possible that the nameplate was replaced and the service technician may have stenciled the numbers from the old plate."Now, on mine the code is on the left side as you face the unit, and the serial number is on the right side. But I am not going to worry about it. Just thought this info might interest some of you. RussLast edited by russ69coupe; 08-30-2010 at 01:39 AM.Reason: added infoRIP Mallory, we miss you.
Reply:russ69Coupe, I have one very similar,and my code # is close.  You are already talking to Duane. He is  THE MAN for the ideas and directions on this. He knows them well.   I might be able to snap a pic or two of something to help. When I go out to the shop today I'll try to get a pic of the leads to the starter for you.   Mine welds nicely, maybe that's a li'l inspiration.  Be patient with yourself and take your time. It doesn't have to be beautiful now, just would be nice for it to crank up and weld  The  most fun projects for me are always the ones where I need to dig a lot for info, I learn sumthin'enjoy, BretLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Here's the pic, might help?   enjoy, Bretps: mine is a 89xx code # Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Thanks,RussRIP Mallory, we miss you.
Reply:On weight... only reference I found was in Australia and read 318 Kilos which would be about 700 pounds.  Seems about right to me? someone will know more acurately probably.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Originally Posted by russ69coupeThen I noticed the interesting thing. The starter relay is cabled backwards from how it should be(at least on a car, thinking it should be the same here). The side connection that should be coming from the battery is hooked up to the starter, and the starter side is hooked up to the battery. I don't think it is physically possible to work this way, but am willing to be proven wrong.
Reply:Yeah, after looking at it I am sure you are right. It just seems "wrong" since I am so used to seeing it the other way. (yes, I am a Ford guy). Haven't gotten back to it this week. Hoping to get some time this weekend. thanks,RussRIP Mallory, we miss you.