Lincoln sa 200 wont weld

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Ive searched around and I come up with replacing the brushes... now my problem is this.  I just completed rebuilding the engine. The last time I used this welded was 10 years ago. About 8 years ago it had water in the cylinders and seized... So I had some spare time and wanted to get this working again... So today I got it running and had a few this to weld... But it wouldnt weld....My questions are... Is there a way to test for amps?  any fuses?  Breakers to look for?  No power at the 110 outlet...  I pulled the cone off the front of the generator and looked at the brushes and it looked like they were in contact...Now I understand there is more brushes under the large band around the generator too.. I will check that in the morning to see if there not in contact.  Now is there something other then this to be looking for or anything else to expect.  Can there be something more serious?  It didnt look like any of the wires or contacts were broken. thanks for the advise in advance.... JD
Reply:Since the welder has been down for such a long time and since you have no voltage at the receptacle, I would first try flashing the fields.  There are several ways to do this, but the factory recommended method is in the Lincoln Classic I operator's manual on page E5.http://content.lincolnelectric.com//...r/im/IM514.pdfThe Classic I is just a copper wound SA-200 with a later model Continental Engine.If this doesn't do it, look over all the wiring and fix anything that looks loose or corroded.  Work the controls a bunch of times to wipe them clean.Measure the voltage across the weld terminals, across the DC receptacle terminals, and across the exciter brush terminals.  (All voltages on this machine are DC.)  Post those voltages and someone here will probably be able to help.  There are lots of very knowledgable and experienced folks on this forum.Good LuckBob
Reply:This may not do a thing and it may fix it but it is quick and easy. If you have no voltage at the brushes on the exciter try running a stone on it until the copper is bright. If it has formed enough oxide just sitting the brushes can't make contact with the commutator.
Reply:Common causes are dirty commutator. Brushes stuck in brush holder. Or no resisual magnetism left requiring flashing the field. Or dirty range selector.Or any combination of these.Here Is the procedure from Bob's linkFlashing the exciter field consists of passing current through the fields using an external source of 6 to 125 voltsof DC power from a storage battery or DC generator. If using a DC generator, keep the generator turned offexcept when actually applying the flashing current. To flash the fields:1. Turn the welder off. Raise one exciter brush off the commutator.2. On Lincoln welders, attach the positive lead from the external DC source to the right hand brushholder.3. Carefully holding an insulated section of the negative lead from the DC source, touch its lug or clamp to theleft hand brushholder for five seconds. Pull it away quickly to minimize arcing.Remove the lead from the right hand brushholder, replace the brush on the commutator, start the welder and thegenerator voltage should build up.I have always used a somewhat cruder method, but I like the factory one betterJoewww.CummingsHauling.com
Reply:Thank you everyone for your help and for this fourm... Im going to have to wait till the weekend now to try any of thses fixes.       Now for the stone part I saw someone say they used scotchbrite pad to clean commulator or can I use a sharpening stone or is it that I need to go buy a special stone?         I have time today where I will be out so maybe the welding shop will carry one of these stones?    Thanks jd
Reply:Lincoln used to say use the stone or in a pinch sandpaper could be used.
Reply:I did clean the commutator with "sandpaper"  as it was oxidized and dirty, I then did a flash to the exciter side brush and holder for 5 secs.   Restarted and ran it for a few minutes and it has an arc... Pretty simple machine to work on... From the motor to the generator its as simple as it gets to repair... Gotta love them Lincolns!   Thank You for your help.... got some work to do ...    jd
Reply:Good deal. Get that work done.
Reply:I have a question, I have the same ploblem, On a lincoln 250 engine drive .which brush holder on the exciter is right? and which one is left, nearest the iron is neg, Is the that one the left or Right, For flashing the field on the exciter Which Brush do you lift? Do you connect the positive to the Neg brush ? do you have the engine running while holding Dc to the Brushes.
Reply:Hey guys, I need help. Restoring a 75 SA 200. Motor runs good, have voltage at the receptacle, but just a small spark when I try to strike an ark. I have cleaned everything that I can think of, and checked for loose wires. The fast idle switch works, but im not sure the idler board is working. I am an electrician so I ohmed thru the rheostat, the range selector contacts, and I checked resistance at  leads U and N coming off the shunt coils, and it read around 10 ohms resistance, which tells me that they should be ok. If anyone knows of any other tests that I can do, I would appreciate it very much. The voltage across the terminals where the leads hook up is only about 3 volts.Thanks for any help
Reply:Originally Posted by cottonHey guys, I need help. Restoring a 75 SA 200. Motor runs good, have voltage at the receptacle, but just a small spark when I try to strike an ark. I have cleaned everything that I can think of, and checked for loose wires. The fast idle switch works, but im not sure the idler board is working. I am an electrician so I ohmed thru the rheostat, the range selector contacts, and I checked resistance at  leads U and N coming off the shunt coils, and it read around 10 ohms resistance, which tells me that they should be ok. If anyone knows of any other tests that I can do, I would appreciate it very much. The voltage across the terminals where the leads hook up is only about 3 volts.Thanks for any help
Reply:Originally Posted by jd1060I did clean the commutator with "sandpaper"  as it was oxidized and dirty, I then did a flash to the exciter side brush and holder for 5 secs.   Restarted and ran it for a few minutes and it has an arc... Pretty simple machine to work on... From the motor to the generator its as simple as it gets to repair... Gotta love them Lincolns!   Thank You for your help.... got some work to do ...    jd
Reply:I have been working on an SA 200 for a few weeks now and I had this same problem- nothing happening at the exciter. I tested the coils and armature- all good, flashed the fields- still nothing, using a voltmeter in the receptacle it somehow shorted out and all the sudden I have welding current. I do not really understand what happened but it works like a champ now, does anyone have a theory of what occurred here?Oh I need to sell this machine also its in CA
Reply:The company I've been working for this year is loaded down with 200D's and it seems I'm always using one of them.  So far there has been at least 4 times these machines won't weld, and won't even run a grinder.  Every time it has been because of a stuck exciter brush or a gaulded exciter brush.On a simple stuck brush I usually bend down the brush clip a little to loosen up the brush.  Then after its working (welding/grinding) I'll wet it down with some water.  That fixes them.For a really gaulded brush (hard shiny surface) it takes a little emery cloth seat job followed by a light brush cleaner stoning.  To make it weld smoother I also like a little water wetdown. Good luck
Reply:The rough stuff of emery conducts electricity.  Using emery can cause shorting between commutator bars.   Sandpaper is the thing to use no matter what someone says.Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:get a brush seating stone. grainger has them. use them just enough to clean up the com.