Idealarc 300/300

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Our shop has an Idealarc 300/300. The code is 8167-C. We have a BERNARD water cooler and an Amtrol foot control, and two WELDCRAFT torches (one set up for aluminum, and the other for stainless steel). We use it mostly for stainless steel (1/16" wall tubing all the way to 1/4" flat stock) with a 1/16" 2 % thoriated tungsten electrode. We occasionally weld aluminum (1/8" - 1/4" flat stock, round bar, tubing), with 1/16" pure tung elctrode. We use Argon gas. This welder is used daily to make and modify wheelchairs, and other equipment for the handicapped. I have attached a picture of the front, and the inside (looking in from the top).We've had this unit since before I started working here 20 years ago, and it's been a workhorse. We replace and regap the points every couple of years. We bought new torches 15years ago (not because we couldn't get an arc, we were leaking water and couldn't repair the hoses any more).I have read all the posts for Idealarc 300/300' s on this forum. I've tried some of the suggestions I read here, and still haven't solved our problem. Our problem is, we can't establish an arc. When I hit the amtrol, the contactor kicks in, the gas flows, and the water flows. I can actually see a small spark at the electrode (VERY faint), but not nearly enough to get a real arc going. Everything sounds as it always has (the contactor kicks in with that loud clunk, a slight buzz coming from the HF points, afterflow of the gas, etc.). We didn't have a new set of points available, so I took out the set (4), shined them up on a very fine abrasive wheel, put them back in and gapped them. The access panel has the gap printed on it (.010), so I gapped em to .010. One post I saw here suggested that the gap should be .040, but we've always used .010 and it's worked great. I left the cover off, and hit the amtrol to watch the HF points which give a nice, even, blue spark.I watched the inside relays from the open top as I hit the amtrol. All the relays pull in (the afterflow relay has the appropriate delay before opening back up). I also looked for shorts, sparks, etc....nothing. I checked the contacts on the AC, DC-, DC+ selector switch, all good. We've never changed the selector switch or the current control selector switch under load (why would we?), so I doubt these switches are damaged.I read one post where a similar problem was solved by replacing the torches. Our torches still look new to me, but is it possible that they need to be replaced? I have to be reasonably sure this will get us up and running again, before I beg the cheap @#$#&'s that handle the money here to buy us new torches. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Also, does anyone out there have a supplier for parts for these machines (points, relays, switches, PC boards)? Ours went out of business. I guess we also need a supplier for consumables too. Attached Images
Reply:for boards  i would try   www.industrialelectronics.com they have / repair them .idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:ricks655 it sounds like you are having the same problem I am with an identical welder. Just like you wrote everything is clicking and humming like normal but no arc. Just curious, can you get an arc if you set it to the highest setting? I can actually weld a little on the highest setting but it's not very hot.
Reply:Before you buy another torch, can you stick weld with it.  IF not Some thing is open in the weld circuit or the reactor control circuit. You can use an ohm meter to make sure all connections are good. You can try calling Lincoln and asking for a clean diagram and the trouble shooting guide for your code number.
Reply:Prop-Doctor, Thanks for the info.
Reply:welcome  hope you can get fixed upidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:VVM65,I just tried using the highest setting, got nothing. We've never used anything above Medium current.Thanks, it was worth a shot.
Reply:ccawgc, we've never used it for stick welding, and don't have the set up for it.We have an oxy acetylene set up for brazing and cutting, but we never have stick welded here.