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So I am in the planning, stage for my kids 4H project and one of the things we were going to build is a farrowing hut. At this link on page 8 figure 11 you can find the plan of what we were going to build. In essence it is a birthing hut for the sow to offer weather protection and help keep the sow from crushing piglets. I was planing on making the frame out of 1.5x1.5 11 ga tube steel and then skinning it with corrugated galvanized panels but am at a loss for the two hinged lid sections. I am scratching the brain trying to figure out how I might hinge that area and still have it be somewhat weather resistant even if only when the lids are latched down. The only thing that I could figure would be something along the lines of having those two small upper parts of the roof that the hinge welds to be sheet metal and then have a screw down type of 6 inch or so flexible membrane that laps over the hinges and joint. Problem is I have no idea where to find such a material or what it would be called. When I use to install commercial doors on my job sites we would install a vertical door sweep that came into contact with the threshold at the exterior of the door to keep debris and critters out of the building. It would be something like that with an aluminum strip that spreads the load of the fasteners to hold down the rubber but I have no idea where to find something like that or better yet if you have a better idea then mine. It does not need to be water tight but I don't want rain pouring in either. http://www.ipic.iastate.edu/publicat...ingOptions.pdf
Reply:Thinking maybe one could get tractor tubes and cut pieces of rubber 18" by 8' long .... and you may get longer pieces ... I know they may not want to lay flat but once under the upper section they will screw down flat. Just a thought and alot of tractor tire stores have used tubes.Located In SE OklahomaLincoln Mig 135Hobart Ironman 230 Mig5x10 CNC Table with DTHC & FTHypertherm PM65 on the tableMiller Bobcatwww.caneyagequipment.com
Reply:I would try a plastics wholesale outfit. What about those door strips of plastic that they use as a barrier on drive thru overhead doors? I would use something other than tubing where contact is made with the ground and pig shlt. That stuff is nasty corrosive.
Reply:This looks like the design you're talking about.Here's another style that looks a little more conventional, framing-wise.Be careful with metal skin as far as sharp edges. Also, I'm not sure metal would insulate as well as a wood skin....A rub/crush rail I either styl and a good heat lamp can help keep the little ones away from mom unless eating.Sows are tough on everything. Giving them straw early will let them shred something for bedding while "nesting" without (hopefully) tearing things up. Show us what you build.DBLast edited by labparamour; 03-16-2016 at 10:21 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by labparamourThis looks like the design you're talking about.Here's another style that looks a little more conventional, framing-wise.Be careful with metal skin as far as sharp edges. Also, I'm not sure metal would insulate as well as a wood skin....A rub/crush rail I either styl and a good heat lamp can help keep the little ones away from mom unless eating.Sows are tough on everything. Giving them straw early will let them shred something for bedding while "nesting" without (hopefully) tearing things up. Show us what you build.DB
Reply:Shower pan liner is one option if looking for a "rubber" material to make the hinge area water proof. You can also get a variety of roll membranes for sealing door and window openings that might be useful. Usually these are adhesive backed to stick to walls/roofs etc..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You could make a gutter inside the hut just below the edge of the door frame. If you do that, and have the hinges on the outside and mounted so the door part of the roof overlaps the ride part with no warping so the door makes contact all along the seam I think it would be dry in all put the biggest rains.Another idea would be to use a round tube running the with as a hinge. Have bushings in the walls for the tube to rotate in, and mounted so the top edge of the door is under the roof. The hinge point would be down slope from the top edge so when the door swings up the top edge of the door swings down. The door wouldn't be able to open a full 180 degrees but could go past vertical so it would stay open.Either way I would consider making a latch to hold the door open if there is any chance of wind could blow the door shut.
Reply:A local roofing company may have scraps of EPDM rubber membrane. I've seen Lowes or Home Depot sell the PVC shower pan liner by the foot, though I don't know the width. A vinyl floor base molding may work OK."...mounted so the top edge of the door is under the roof..." I thought the same."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Maybe consider doing the roof like the Smidley's , http://smidley.com/products/hog_farr...house_pen.htmlAttachment 1375641 Attachment 1375651
Reply:I would consider coating the entire wooden structure in side and out with 2 part epoxy resin. This will seal the wood forever and keep any moisture that does get in including urine from every rotting the sheeting, floor and structural wood beams. it also sticks well to metal. West system is the most common but you can buy non brand name epoxy coatings as well. On areas like the doors where you need strength I get some 2 or 3 inch diameter empty cardboard flooring rolls or a bunch of mailing tubes. put them through your table saw and cut in half. now each half will be a stringer(see pictures the carboard is under the black carbon fiber. you dont need carbon fiber) that you and the kids will strategically place for strength like on the doors. You will take more epoxy resin and fiberglass matt material and lamminate up and over the cardboard tubes and let it overhang onto your flat surfaces 2 times the length across any of the tubes like. if the tubes are 2 inches cut 8 inch wide strips however long the tubes run.. by using this method you will get an amazing amount of strength on the roof doors while being able to keep them light as possible. At least thats hos the space shuttle doors were fabricated but using much more expensive and exoctic materials. This work is just like paper mache for the kids and the epoxy is not as bad to work with at all compared to the polyester resins. no fumes and denatured alcohol cleanup. im not saying its hazard free but i think the way this west system epoxy resin system works is very very innovative by its ability to encapsulate any wood to preserve the moisture content of the wood forever. They call the resin system a "structural coating" which without any fabric at all seems hard to believe but one coat of this resin on any wood makes it stronger. like 3/8 plywood becomes 1/2, 5/8 then 3/4 etc. add the fiberglass matt/fabrics to it and you get super strength low weight and forever sanitary washable surface. You can then put the roofing membranes some of the other folks have mentioned on top of the coating and stringersand put more 1/8 thick coated plywood over that so the insulation gets protected from the pigs trying to eat it. thye eat evrything man ...everything. I have a bunch of fiberglass chopped sting matt here that is compatible with epoxy that I can send your group for free if you would like. The picture from BD1 of the smidley hog house shows a perfect example of the roof structure that can be made from th elightest plywood 1/8 thick luan and this epoxy with the cardboard tubes glassed in running just like you see in the photo of smidley. the only drawback is the epoxy needs to be covered from the sun because most of it is not UV stable. so topcoat the lid with spar varnish, paint, metal or both. etc. I firmly believe that moving forward we will see more and more products developed using a combination of composites and metals to form more efficient and cost effective dwellings/structures due to strickly the overall less weight and greater strengths and service duty the combination of both materials offer. let me know if you want more help or at least if I can donate the fiberglass matt for the project. My dad and i built a chicken house and man it took forever to paint and seal everything. i wished we had the epoxy/fiberglass option at that time but he was old school and said no were doing it this way. its really hard to clean these closed shelters unless you seal them with an industrial coating like a 2 part epoxy. something to consider in this project as I think its an educational project. I think you insulation may be better outside the buildings envelope and covered with the corregated you mentioned then you can get the max r value and not have the hogs eat it. here is the west system link if anything you can read about the system. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/hope this helps. johnMillerMatic 200Miller 30A Pro Spool Gun wc-24Miller "Plazcut"
Reply:on last thing. if this 2 part resin is not in the budget then at least get a few gallons of clear gloss spar varnish for wood floors at home depot or loews. then just coat everything wood everywhere you can and that will give the entire wood structure a ton of long term protection in and outside of the dwelling. spar varnish is hard and it can be washed easy and re-coated. JMillerMatic 200Miller 30A Pro Spool Gun wc-24Miller "Plazcut"
Reply:It looks like you have the equivalent of a ridge board running horizontal near the peak and a possibility of a solid board pannel for the movable door. By using rubber belting maybe salvaged from a source like an old round baler you could make the hinge and have a near weather tight seal. Nice to see kids involved with livestock and a building project. Thanks Dad
Reply:I think a few are misunderstanding....I am not planning on building it out of wood. A fellow member here simply posted the attributes of wood and also posted some pictures of wooden ones of similar design to my original link. I do like the resin idea for future wood projects but wanna build this one out of metal.
Reply:Originally Posted by rexmarine12I would consider coating the entire wooden structure in side and out with 2 part epoxy resin. This will seal the wood forever and keep any moisture that does get in including urine from every rotting the sheeting, floor and structural wood beams. it also sticks well to metal. West system is the most common but you can buy non brand name epoxy coatings as well. On areas like the doors where you need strength I get some 2 or 3 inch diameter empty cardboard flooring rolls or a bunch of mailing tubes. put them through your table saw and cut in half. now each half will be a stringer(see pictures the carboard is under the black carbon fiber. you dont need carbon fiber) that you and the kids will strategically place for strength like on the doors. You will take more epoxy resin and fiberglass matt material and lamminate up and over the cardboard tubes and let it overhang onto your flat surfaces 2 times the length across any of the tubes like. if the tubes are 2 inches cut 8 inch wide strips however long the tubes run.. by using this method you will get an amazing amount of strength on the roof doors while being able to keep them light as possible. At least thats hos the space shuttle doors were fabricated but using much more expensive and exoctic materials. This work is just like paper mache for the kids and the epoxy is not as bad to work with at all compared to the polyester resins. no fumes and denatured alcohol cleanup. im not saying its hazard free but i think the way this west system epoxy resin system works is very very innovative by its ability to encapsulate any wood to preserve the moisture content of the wood forever. They call the resin system a "structural coating" which without any fabric at all seems hard to believe but one coat of this resin on any wood makes it stronger. like 3/8 plywood becomes 1/2, 5/8 then 3/4 etc. add the fiberglass matt/fabrics to it and you get super strength low weight and forever sanitary washable surface. You can then put the roofing membranes some of the other folks have mentioned on top of the coating and stringersand put more 1/8 thick coated plywood over that so the insulation gets protected from the pigs trying to eat it. thye eat evrything man ...everything. I have a bunch of fiberglass chopped sting matt here that is compatible with epoxy that I can send your group for free if you would like. The picture from BD1 of the smidley hog house shows a perfect example of the roof structure that can be made from th elightest plywood 1/8 thick luan and this epoxy with the cardboard tubes glassed in running just like you see in the photo of smidley. the only drawback is the epoxy needs to be covered from the sun because most of it is not UV stable. so topcoat the lid with spar varnish, paint, metal or both. etc. I firmly believe that moving forward we will see more and more products developed using a combination of composites and metals to form more efficient and cost effective dwellings/structures due to strickly the overall less weight and greater strengths and service duty the combination of both materials offer. let me know if you want more help or at least if I can donate the fiberglass matt for the project. My dad and i built a chicken house and man it took forever to paint and seal everything. i wished we had the epoxy/fiberglass option at that time but he was old school and said no were doing it this way. its really hard to clean these closed shelters unless you seal them with an industrial coating like a 2 part epoxy. something to consider in this project as I think its an educational project. I think you insulation may be better outside the buildings envelope and covered with the corregated you mentioned then you can get the max r value and not have the hogs eat it. here is the west system link if anything you can read about the system. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/hope this helps. john
Reply:Originally Posted by knightbouyIt looks like you have the equivalent of a ridge board running horizontal near the peak and a possibility of a solid board pannel for the movable door. By using rubber belting maybe salvaged from a source like an old round baler you could make the hinge and have a near weather tight seal. Nice to see kids involved with livestock and a building project. Thanks Dad
Reply:gotya....sorry!!! I saw the picture of the kids building the wood framing!!!!!! Now at least I can follow along and learn a bit about the light metal construction design you end up with. Thank you. J.MillerMatic 200Miller 30A Pro Spool Gun wc-24Miller "Plazcut"
Reply:Originally Posted by TDog78Round baler belts is a great idea..I do wonder if they flex the opposite direction as well as lengthwise. Ill check my dads baler and call a couple of the neighbors. And like Oldendum mentioned EPDM should work fine as well, wish I would have kept some of the millions of square feet of scrap we have ditched on the commercial sites I ran for years. And OMG the iron I skipped over |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:12:16