Santa's Scratch-Start TIG Setup

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Well, Santa determined I was not naughty this year (I paid off his elves to put my name on the "nice" list). So she brought me a new WP 17FV scratch start TIG setup to use with my Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC rig.  I already have Argon so next week I'll set it up and begin practicing.Any advice for a brand-new TIG Wannabe?I really have no idea what I am doing.Two Shop Cats (not Bobcats...real cats)Miller DialArc 250 AC/DCScratch-Start TIG SetupMIG 175Plasma CutterO/A
Reply:Originally Posted by wannab1Well, Santa determined I was not naughty this year (I paid off his elves to put my name on the "nice" list). So she brought me a new WP 17FV scratch start TIG setup to use with my Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC rig.  I already have Argon so next week I'll set it up and begin practicing.Any advice for a brand-new TIG Wannabe?
Reply:What Dave said and a #4 cup at 12 cfh or 10 with gas lense and try to keep under 1/4 stick out. You Gota get the metal clean enough that you can eat off it 70-S2 filler
Reply:Dave, I have 1/8 steel and Santa brought 5 pounds of 1/16 mild steel rod, too.  Santa is soooo smart.Moto, I only have a #6 cup for now, 3/32 blue tungstun (2% Lanthinated).I really have no idea what I am doing.Two Shop Cats (not Bobcats...real cats)Miller DialArc 250 AC/DCScratch-Start TIG SetupMIG 175Plasma CutterO/A
Reply:You are good to go Grind off the mill scale, wire brush will only polish it.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:#6 is ok. No need to go past 15cfh if you got a short tungsten stick out. And some Millscale is tough to get off so I take that stuff off with a grinding wheel then like a 80 grit flap wheel. Did you get 70-s2?
Reply:And remember don't just twist that valve shut when ur done. You need post flow. 125 amps could use about 9 sec post flow or more
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313And remember don't just twist that valve shut when ur done. You need post flow. 125 amps could use about 9 sec post flow or more
Reply:Lol funny guy. 3 sec MAYBE if your speed tacking. But that's kinda tough to do that with out a foot pedal. Rule of thumb is 1 sec post flow per 10 amps.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Lol funny guy. 3 sec MAYBE if your speed tacking. But that's kinda tough to do that with out a foot pedal. Rule of thumb is 1 sec post flow per 10 amps.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleThat's a bogus rule of thumb. Unless he is doing stainless, titanium, inconel no more than a few seconds isn't needed.Tell me, what does he gain by having 10 seconds of post flow ? A non discolored tungsten? So what.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Lol funny guy. 3 sec MAYBE if your speed tacking. But that's kinda tough to do that with out a foot pedal. Rule of thumb is 1 sec post flow per 10 amps.
Reply:The amount of flash information floating around here is getting worse and worse by the day.I give up. I tell my customers you don't need post flow control, really. For stainless I still use less than 5 seconds of post flow and if I need more I will drop the pedal until I am welding at the least amount of current possible. (4-12amps, depending on the welder) and use that as post flow.This way you don't have to change your settings and you control it. Less if you want less and more if you want more.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:10-4 on that one. Argon is way to expensive to be wasting it! I normally run about 3 seconds of post flow, unless I want a shiney weld that is not going to be brushed or painted,.. Even at 3-4 seconds my welds normally won't discolor or oxidize. You will quickly find out what works for you,, just enjoy sticking metal togeather for a while, then practice proper techniques and controll. If you have good results with SMAW then you'll have no problem picking up on tig fairly quick!Good luck and enjoy your presents!!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Lol funny guy. 3 sec MAYBE if your speed tacking. But that's kinda tough to do that with out a foot pedal. Rule of thumb is 1 sec post flow per 10 amps.
Reply:I'm not talking about the post flow to protect your weld. I'm talking about protecting your tungsten and collet. You will need to start pulling the tungsten out with pliers because your toasting your collet wich is pinching off flow. And your tungsten will turn black and the tip will get crumbly not giving you a accurate arc. Your collet will turn blue and break from over heating it. And I lied I bought a miller econo twin with hf no foot pedal back in January this year. And gamble its not misinformation! Everyone does things different!
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313I'm not talking about the post flow to protect your weld. I'm talking about protecting your tungsten and collet. You will need to start pulling the tungsten out with pliers because your toasting your collet wich is pinching off flow. And your tungsten will turn black and the tip will get crumbly not giving you a accurate arc. Your collet will turn blue and break from over heating it. And I lied I bought a miller econo twin with hf no foot pedal back in January this year. And gamble its not misinformation! Everyone does things different!
Reply:You don't know how much experience I have! So shut the **** up!! Lets see how good your lap joints and t joints are on aluminum and steel? Not somthing that's been laying around. Weld them up soon when you got time and let's compare yours to mine! Ill do the same if you got the balls.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313You don't know how much experience I have! So shut the **** up!! Lets see how good your lap joints and t joints are on aluminum and steel? Not somthing that's been laying around. Weld them up soon when you got time and let's compare yours to mine! Ill do the same if you got the balls.
Reply:If I can lay a better looking and stronger bead I would think I would be the better welder. Just saying that's means somthing
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313If I can lay a better looking and stronger bead I would think I would be the better welder. Just saying that's means somthing
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313If I can lay a better looking and stronger bead I would think I would be the better welder. Just saying that's means somthing
Reply:Blow balls slimbob
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleLol not when you have a thread about why your aluminum welds crack.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749BrotherI'd rather be a better welder then book smart
Reply:#5.
Reply:
Reply:Man this thread went to hell in a flash. Moto dial back your ego and continue welding. Post flow is a preference based on whatever material your welding. Reactive metals need more, regular carbon steel could use less depending on your heat input. Moto: man you lost your cool in a second, thick skin is vital in life and the Internet. Stop trying to prove your point and challenge people. Op: many many x ray quality welds are done daily with scratch start. We use a scratch start rig at work. I personally think it helps us become a better weldor.
Reply:If someone told you that you were giving out miss information would you try to prove your point that guy there?
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313If someone told you that you were giving out miss information would you try to prove your point that guy there?
Reply:Sorry gamble for arguing with you!! And sorry slimbob
Reply:Honestly wannab1 since you are using a torch with a valve, you will get more pre flow automatically. As far as post flow goes, on practice beads who cares. Do what makes you happy. When the weld matters it wouldn't hurt to snap out and return to the end of your weld. As far as cooking collets and tungsten, I've never had that problem. I am limited to a valve on my torch as well. By the time you complete your weld, put down your filler and raise your hood you've ran at least 5 sec post flow. So don't worry about ruining a 50cent collet, the gas costs more in the end. Happy tigging!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Sorry gamble for arguing with you!! And sorry slimbob
Reply:It's a little rough around here that's part of the reason I like it! Nothin to crazy tho. And I was not getting to worked up I was laying in the couch hanging with my austrilian sheperd and cattle dog
Reply:nice way to chit all over someones post with a good old pecker fight eh ?
Reply:That is my only real complaint with my square wave unit. factory set pre and post. about 5secMeasure with a micrometre, mark with chalk,  cut with a torch.Never force anything...just get a bigger hammer.RoyOld Airco buzz box approx 1974Lincoln mig pack 15Lincoln 175 square wave1954 9" south bend lathe
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Well, it's over and everyone's cool so no need to say anymore about it Besides, if anyone whips out their pecker I'm gonna gross out
Reply:Originally Posted by olcarguyThat is my only real complaint with my square wave unit. factory set pre and post. about 5sec
Reply:I kind of agree with a longer post-flow.. I even like a bit of pre-flow too...Esab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i
Reply:I just don't like how my pre flow knocks little stuff over. Sometimes I tap the pedal away from the part then bring the torch over to it
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313I just don't like how my pre flow knocks little stuff over. Sometimes I tap the pedal away from the part then bring the torch over to it
Reply:Ya it hits pretty hard. Even doing 2x4 by 1/8 aluminum butt joint laying flat on the bench it will blow them apart. My third hand comes in handy
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopI thought they had .5 sec preflow, and a 15sec post flow?
Reply:Who am I to say??I've only owned two S/wave 175's.....Last edited by AKweldshop; 12-26-2014 at 10:23 PM.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749if anyone whips out their pecker I'm gonna gross out
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313You might be thinking of miller diversion. It has 14 second post flow. Good for 200 amps but overkill for 100amps
Reply:Originally Posted by NinjaRayCouldn't Resist !
Reply:All, this has been an interesting and entertaining thread...and I have taken in the tips as well!As I'm getting some hood time with tig next week I'll be remembering that my thread started a 'pecker fight'!  I've never even heard that term before and I started one!!! Thanks for the tips.  I'm sure I'll have more questions next week.I really have no idea what I am doing.Two Shop Cats (not Bobcats...real cats)Miller DialArc 250 AC/DCScratch-Start TIG SetupMIG 175Plasma CutterO/A
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleThe miller diversion post flow is pre calculated depending on the welding amperage used.What machine do you have? I've also read that the initial "surge" of pre flow is due to having too small of a argon hose feeding the welder. Haven't tried different sizes back to back to be sure, but it's on the list of things to do.