Keyholing with Tig on Fillet joints

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Hi All,I am fairly new to tig welding.  I have a Eastwood 200am AC/DC machine with a CK 17 flex torch with stubby gas lens kit.  Overall I am fairly pleased with the welder, however it's the only tig machine i have used so I have nothing to compare it to.I have noticed that often when I am welding on a T joint, that the puddle doesn't want to push ahead of the electrode, seems to want to try to keyhole and I have to dab filler rod to the sides to reach the puddle rather than the center under the electrode.I have tried to run a little more stickout and push the electrode as deep into the corner of the Tjoint as I can without touching.Anyone have any thoughts?Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:Would help if you posted your settings and material. Other than that use less heat, slow down, and feed greater amounts of smaller filler and let it flow in. Keeping your tungsten more vertical can help too.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Specifically talking about mild steel square tubing, different thickness, etc.  Usually 1/8th wall, and I have the welder set for around 100 amps max, and usually go 1/2 to 3/4 pedal depending how things are looking.Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:Lets see some pics. Maybe you don't have enough heat and your going to slow
Reply:For 1/8" steel, more amps will let you travel faster, force the puddle to form and wet out more quickly, and less overall heat will be transferred to the piece.Try 125 amps.Here is an online tig calculator for you.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.phpDave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I'm guessing to much push angle with the torch, and to long of arc....Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:I have tried different amperages.  I have also played with torch angle stickout, etc.  Just seems to struggle adding rod, the puddle doesn't seem to push forward easily or take the filler material easily.I make it work and get a decent result, but seems to be more difficult compared to just a butt joint, etc.Last edited by turbocobra; 12-29-2014 at 09:57 PM.Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:Oh yeah. 1/8" I would be set at 200 amps. Could be the weld is overheating. Cramming the rod in harder could chill the weld.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:This may sound strange, the grind angle on your tungsten will change the shape of the arc plume. I've found that a shorter taper makes a wider arc and penetrates better. I'm no pro and I may be dillusional so you'll have to find out for yourself. It does sound like you're running too cold and slow. From the settings you posted 1/2 - 3/4 of a hundred amps is cold for 1/8". Crank it up and get moving. Have you tried walking the cup?Thermal arc 211iCk flex-loc 150 & 130Clamps, saws & grindersHarbor freight 80 amp inverter
Reply:Looks ok. Are you cleaning to shiney metal and then acetone?
Reply:Is that bed frame rails your welding?Thermal arc 211iCk flex-loc 150 & 130Clamps, saws & grindersHarbor freight 80 amp inverter
Reply:Thanks Austin.  I will try the shorter taper on the tungsten grind.  As I said, I have tried different heat settings. I have tried walking the cup, lay wire, etc.  what works best is actually a fusion weld with no filler, it just seems to push the puddle along easier.  Of course this isn't structural because I end up with undercut when I do that.Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:A little inconsistent tho.
Reply:Originally Posted by Austin BennettIs that bed frame rails your welding?
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Looks ok. Are you cleaning to shiney metal and then acetone?
Reply:Clean the mill scale with a grinding wheel then a 60 grit flap wheel. Then acetone.then brush the rag parts off with a dedicated brush just for scrubing tags parts off.  That will help big time!!!and get cheaters!!!!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocobraNah, it's just some 2X2X1/8th hot rolled angle iron.  In the picture posted, I was working on this project.
Reply:Originally Posted by Austin BennettAah I see now, I saw rivets and assumed. I checked out you're youtube link and that is one sweet 65. I always wanted to stick a JZ or RB engine in a classic. Nothing like a high revving sleeper to show up the big blocks.
Reply:I would use a long taper, 3x the diameter of the tungsten.  You're using a 1/16" tungsten right?  Get a long taper, and put just a tiny flat on the tip, and work on getting the arc length as short as you possibly can.  That is what gets the puddle to form at the room of the joint, as opposed to the sides and then joining "inward". 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarI would use a long taper, 3x the diameter of the tungsten.  You're using a 1/16" tungsten right?  Get a long taper, and put just a tiny flat on the tip, and work on getting the arc length as short as you possibly can.  That is what gets the puddle to form at the room of the joint, as opposed to the sides and then joining "inward".
Reply:Does your arc stay right in the joint or does or wander to the sides of the jointTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawDoes your arc stay right in the joint or does or wander to the sides of the joint
Reply:So that means you need more amps! Use a 3/32 tungsten (red) and a 1/16 filler. You got ur filler and foot pedal if you start getting in trouble.
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocobrathe arc seems stable, and doesn't wonder.  It just seems to move slowly, doesn't always want to take filler.  Seems like the puddle wants to lag back behind the electrode and is slow to push forward if that make sense.
Reply:Thanks Dave, yea I saw your post, and I appreciate it.  I have tried 125 amps.  I may need to go 150.  But what your saying makes sense about wetting it out....Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobraOriginally Posted by turbocobraThanks Dave, yea I saw your post, and I appreciate it.  I have tried 125 amps.  I may need to go 150.  But what your saying makes sense about wetting it out....
Reply:yes sir, that make sense.  I saw a video from Jody at welding tips and tricks about the heat effected zone being smaller by going hotter/faster, than colder slower... it all makes sense, just a newb trying to learn! Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocobrayes sir, that make sense.  I saw a video from Jody at welding tips and tricks about the heat effected zone being smaller by going hotter/faster, than colder slower... it all makes sense, just a newb trying to learn!
Reply:What kind and size rod are you using? 125 amps should puddle that up pretty quick
Reply:ER70S6 1/16th rod with 3/32 e3 purple electrode.Checkout my youtube channel:  http://www.youtube.com/turbocobra
Reply:Run a 1/8 t joint and post it up. But remember to get all the mill scale off
Reply:That combo your running should be just fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocobraOk, I will play around with the tungsten taper.  I am using a 3/32 tungsten should I use 1/16th?
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocobrathe arc seems stable, and doesn't wonder.  It just seems to move slowly, doesn't always want to take filler.  Seems like the puddle wants to lag back behind the electrode and is slow to push forward if that make sense.
Reply:The welds are a little too concave.I think adding more filler will solve your problems.That may or may not require more heat. I would try it first without increasing the heat.Just change one variable at a time, to help identify what helps/hurts.Hobart Beta-Mig 2511972 Miller AEAD-200LEMiller 250 TwinNorthern Ind. Hybrid 200Longevity Stick 140Longevity Migweld 200SThermal Arc Pak 3XR
Reply:You may need to dwell a little longer at arc initiation. Once the two pieces flow together, then can can start moving. IMHOHF 98233 Stick/TigHF  95136 PlasmaEastwood TIG200Eastwood MIG250Damn, I cut it twice already and it's still too short!