Welding a trailer with a 110 welder...

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...right after I finish my breakfast burrito and cup of coffee.  Pictures to follow just wanted to give people a chance to get a early start on the hateful comments.
Reply:If it's any bigger than a lawn cart to be towed with your riding mower, I wouldn't do it.Respectfully,JimJim,I don't mean to be argumentative and cantankerous,but I am getting older and a bit crotchety!Addendum; AND CRANKY
Reply:It's capable of towing 7000 pounds and has a gooseneck hitch Jim!
Reply:As long as it's a generic brand you bought at harbor freight you'll be ok.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:I used a LINCOLN 100 FCAW on my 10,000 # dump trailer. Somebody mangled the fender. When I went to grind out the welds, they were caulking and dont grind out easy
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingIt's capable of towing 7000 pounds and has a gooseneck hitch Jim!
Reply:Hmmmm.....helmet, earplugs, jock.... damn, and the full moon isn't until next week...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:It's Friday... I'm wondering just how early happy hour starts in Nebraska?250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I'm not building it I'm repairing it.  Don't worry I has flux core, I hear it burn hotter.
Reply:This is gonna be goodHTP Invertig 221Hypertherm Powermax30 XPPlus other stuff
Reply:Finally!  Something for those of us who don't care to watch the superbowl.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Originally Posted by Rog02Finally!  Something for those of us who don't care to watch the superbowl.
Reply:Haha.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:A 1/8 of these cracks are next to the factory welds, the rest are cracks from people like you who pull out the big welder and glob on welds 10x as big as they need to be.  But the guys who believe that more is always better keeps me busy.  So keep it up.  For those of you who've never worked with these livestock trailers, they are paper thin, add in rust and stretched metal and they get even thinner.  The factory paint is tough as nails, where it isn't the rust and poop make up for the tough texture, and always in corners that are about impossible to get clean.  You put on a huge weld with lots of heat it's just going to crack the metal out next to it right away.  The thickest metal on these is 3/16 so well in the capabilities of this welder, if the 3/16 was cracked I'd definitely use a bigger welder, but 9 times out of 10 the cracks are on the sheeting and tubing. So in cases like this, if you have a good 110 welder with flux core, you'd be stupid not to use it. I've done over 20 trailers like this for this one business alone last year and this is the 5th one from them just this month.
Reply:A miller on a serving cart   you can't beat that it has to work www.georgesplasmacuttershop.comPlasma Cutter and Welder Sales and Repairs--Ebay storeTec.Mo. Dealer Consumables for the PT and IPT torch's
Reply:Originally Posted by Antibling
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveHow did this NOT make it to the cart thread???
Reply:Originally Posted by welditforyouHe did that just to get a laugh. I would have.Jim
Reply:Hmmm.....removes earplugs and loosens jock strap.... this could get interesting. Was that trailer designed with an open back, or has someone shortened the roof section?250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by Antibling
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingA 1/8 of these cracks are next to the factory welds, the rest are cracks from people like you who pull out the big welder and glob on welds 10x as big as they need to be.  But the guys who believe that more is always better keeps me busy.  So keep it up.  For those of you who've never worked with these livestock trailers, they are paper thin, add in rust and stretched metal and they get even thinner.  The factory paint is tough as nails, where it isn't the rust and poop make up for the tough texture, and always in corners that are about impossible to get clean.  You put on a huge weld with lots of heat it's just going to crack the metal out next to it right away.  The thickest metal on these is 3/16 so well in the capabilities of this welder, if the 3/16 was cracked I'd definitely use a bigger welder, but 9 times out of 10 the cracks are on the sheeting and tubing. So in cases like this, if you have a good 110 welder with flux core, you'd be stupid not to use it. I've done over 20 trailers like this for this one business alone last year and this is the 5th one from them just this month.
Reply:Like your cart"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Not to hijack your thread, just add some support for ya  (I made the pics small)The sides did NOT need a big welder.   Happy welding"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Like anything else, you need to choose the right machine for the material to be welded. I certainly wouldn't consider that machine capable of critical welds on 3/16", but for 1/8" and under as long as you pay attention to the duty cycle, it's certainly within the capabilities of the machine. Samm recently made a key comment on his stock trough thread when he commented that you could see/feel/hear the difference in the puddle once the machine passed it's duty cycle. Originally Posted by farmersamm I'm maxed out on all the remaining finish welds.  After a few minutes of welding (which translates to quite a few 2" welds), the output gets noticeably weaker.  The machine is heating up.  Not severely, not enough to trip either a breaker or internal thermal overload, but enough to see/feel/hear the difference in the puddle.
Reply:The cart was both for a laugh and for actual use today.  My dad was doing a demolition and there was a couple old 50s metal carts in there I told him I wanted him to get before he tore it down, he showed up with one of them and this cart.  This is actually the first time my 110 welder has seen use in the shop.  Since I've bought it it's been in my enclosed.  I bought it for a job in an elevator that is welding a lot of 1/8" and smaller mostly, although I have done some 3/16" and it welds 3/16 pretty nicely.  I'll try to find a photo of a 3/16" weld later.  This is the 3rd trailer I've done for them this week and it finally dawned on me that I own this 110 and may weld this thin crap better than my 250+ amp machines.  Originally Posted by whtbaronHmmm.....removes earplugs and loosens jock strap.... this could get interesting. Was that trailer designed with an open back, or has someone shortened the roof section?Originally Posted by DSWIn general when in doubt about the experience and capability of the man behind the trigger on critical things, it's better to have more power than less. A highly experienced welder knows the limits of his tools and can adjust to deal with their limitations. By experienced I don't just mean someone who has years squirting metal in the general direction it's needed, but a person who has the skills to make code quality welds all the time.
Reply:Bros.....bros...bros......a 140A BLUE is like a 250A RED or a 325A YELLOW.  Everybody knows that.  That $hit will work.  Put on side two of Led Zeppelin 4 and burn her in hot! "Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKaiBros.....bros...bros......a 140A BLUE is like a 250A RED or a 325A YELLOW.  Everybody knows that.  That $hit will work.  Put on side two of Led Zeppelin 4 and burn her in hot!
Reply:LOL... I'm not trying to incite a riot.....and I'm not a pro welder.... this is an honest  question.... but why would someone restrict themselves to a small 110 volt welder (assuming  you have larger equipment available) when you could just turn down a larger machine. More specifically, why would you chose a 110 volt flux core over a 220 with gas at a lower setting?250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:whtbaron portability comes to mind right away. I've done a lot of welds with my spoolgun, not for alum, but with solid wire, simply because it made it easier to reach the work vs having to load my full size 220v cabinet mig on a set of forks so I could reach say the upper parts of that trailer he's showing. It's a whole lot easier to toss the small 110v mig up in the bed of the truck to weld a few tie down loops on a ladder rack than it is to use the spoolgun many times.True small " homeowner" migs like the Millermatic 180 or MM 211 are about the same size as that MM140, but they are quite a bit heavier. One of the reasons I was disappointed when Miller discontinued their Passport Plus in favor of the Multimatic. Suitcase feeders are a possible option, but then you have to have enough lead to get to the power source and that can be quite expensive as Antibling mentioned earlier..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammWhen I rebuilt my stock trailer I wish I would of had a 110v welder at the time.  The bulk of the repairs were around the lower sides, where the acid from urine and manure had eaten the metal away.  This destroyed the load bearing integrity of the "beam" (the sides make up the beam on a stock trailer).  It was a matter of cleaning it up, removing the decayed sheet metal, and sandwiching the area with 12ga sheet metal.  No need for a big honkin welder.  I believe the original sides were probably 16ga, or maybe at most 14ga, but all I had at the time was a stick welder, and had to use 12ga to keep from making a mess.
Reply:I recently bought back my old Millermatic 130. I bought it years ago brand new to do field installation of thin sheet. I didn't use it a whole lot in the field but always loved it on thin stuff in the shop. I had it on a dedicated circuit with 10ga wire to the outlet making it a lot better to use compared to field use.  Ok I think to really understand this you'll need a little history so bear with me.  At the time I bought the 130 I had a old MM200 that I'd bought off a local welding company. I needed the portability for field welding of commercial vent hood duct (subcontracting with a local HVAC guy). I used it for that job and set it up in the shop for thinner work. I then got a Dimension 400 at auction with a Cobramatic push pull setup. I bought a 60 series feeder for it and set it up for my heavy work. But I've got limited space and building the cart for the two feeders didn't leave me room for the MM200. Thus I ended up selling it thinking that the Dimension would replace the MM200 and be more welder. Long story short I never got it to weld where I was happy with it. Thus at the time nearly all of my wire welding was done with the MM130.  On the dedicated circuit it was amazing how much work the MM130 would do. However there are definite limitations to it. My biggest problem with it was running into duty cycle when I was building tool boxes and tanks. I then decided to upgrade to a MM175 figuring it would give me more duty cycle and have more power for some of the slightly larger work I wanted to do with wire.  It turned out to be a big mistake. In truth I hit the duty cycle on the MM175 a LOT more than I ever did with the MM130. Mostly because I could turn it up higher for faster welding on some of the projects but even turned down slightly it seemed to hit duty cycle way more than the MM140 ever did. I didn't keep the MM175 very long before selling it and getting my MM252.   Now for the MM252. I don't think it's got as nice a arc as the old MM200 or the MM130/175 do. This especially shows up in the low end of the range. I've never managed to tune it to do thin work anywhere near as well as the MM130 did it. I finally gave up even trying to spool any 0.023" wire in it. It just didn't work as well as the nice soft arc I could tune the MM130 to (which BTW the MM175 wasn't as nice on the low end either). It's got a lot more top end than any of the others and does well on heavy work. I just don't like the arc as well as the MM200 had in the mid range.   I now have a LOT of options on my welders. I've got two XMT304's sitting there as well as suit case feeders for both if needed (most of the time one is setup with dual shield and the other setup for stick welding). Even with all these options I still missed my old MM130 for thin work. Thus when the guy I sold it to decided to buy the MM175 from the guy I'd sold it to I didn't hesitate to buy it back. It's currently sitting on top of my TIG cart spooled up with 0.023" wire for those quick thin jobs I get in. It's the cats meow on things like hydraulic and fuel lines the farmers bring in. I also used it a lot on a nose of a trailer recently welding 18-20ga.   I'm a firm believer that you really need to size the welder to the work. In a shop like mine where I never know what's coming in the door the next minute I believe that the ideal setup would be to have a welder spooled up with each size of wire ready to go at all times. Ideally I would have one with 0.023", 0.030" (this is a nice size for the 14ga range), 0.035" (which is what I keep in my 252 and works well for 3/16"), 0.045" works better for 1/4" and larger than 0.035" but it's such a pain to spool it up that I rarely get to use it. For the heavy work the 0.045" dual shield works well for me though sometimes I could use smaller and occasionally larger would work better.  I just wish I had the room to have all of them ready to go at a moments notice. A lot of my work is short quick jobs where I don't have a clue what's coming in next. Having the right wire for each would be nice. But till then I'm happy I've got my MM130 with the 0.023" wire in it in addition to my MM252 with 0.035" wire. I can make the 0.035" work on 1/8" up to 1/2". It's just not as sweet for some of those sizes as it is for 3/16".   Ok rant over and flame shield going up.Last edited by irish fixit; 01-31-2015 at 10:58 AM.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I ran a hog barn for 30 yrs and everything in there had to be concrete or stainless steel. Manure is incredibly corrosive... any bolt heads would be too round for a wrench after a year, and lag screws would rot right out of a wall. When I tore one end down the nail heads all broke off and the only way to get the nails out was to put vice grips on them one at a time and pull them with a wrecking bar. The corrosion at the bottom was one of the reasons I questioned the open roof. Any monocoque style structure relies on the box shape for strength, much like square tubing. Since part of one side is already open, the rust attacking the other two sides is a serious strength issue. I can see the weight issue of the welder as well. Even my 180C is not a light machine to toss around, and the lead that came with it is not that long. I bought some flux core wire for it in case I had to use it outside, but so far I've never used it.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKaiBros.....bros...bros......a 140A BLUE is like a 250A RED or a 325A YELLOW.  Everybody knows that.  That $hit will work.  Put on side two of Led Zeppelin 4 and burn her in hot!
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitI recently bought back my old Millermatic 130. I bought it years ago brand new to do field installation of thin sheet. I didn't use it a whole lot in the field but always loved it on thin stuff in the shop. I had it on a dedicated circuit with 10ga wire to the outlet making it a lot better to use compared to field use.  Ok I think to really understand this you'll need a little history so bear with me.  At the time I bought the 130 I had a old MM200 that I'd bought off a local welding company. I needed the portability for field welding of commercial vent hood duct (subcontracting with a local HVAC guy). I used it for that job and set it up in the shop for thinner work. I then got a Dimension 400 at auction with a Cobramatic push pull setup. I bought a 60 series feeder for it and set it up for my heavy work. But I've got limited space and building the cart for the two feeders didn't leave me room for the MM200. Thus I ended up selling it thinking that the Dimension would replace the MM200 and be more welder. Long story short I never got it to weld where I was happy with it. Thus at the time nearly all of my wire welding was done with the MM130.  On the dedicated circuit it was amazing how much work the MM130 would do. However there are definite limitations to it. My biggest problem with it was running into duty cycle when I was building tool boxes and tanks. I then decided to upgrade to a MM175 figuring it would give me more duty cycle and have more power for some of the slightly larger work I wanted to do with wire.  It turned out to be a big mistake. In truth I hit the duty cycle on the MM175 a LOT more than I ever did with the MM130. Mostly because I could turn it up higher for faster welding on some of the projects but even turned down slightly it seemed to hit duty cycle way more than the MM140 ever did. I didn't keep the MM175 very long before selling it and getting my MM252.   Now for the MM252. I don't think it's got as nice a arc as the old MM200 or the MM130/175 do. This especially shows up in the low end of the range. I've never managed to tune it to do thin work anywhere near as well as the MM130 did it. I finally gave up even trying to spool any 0.023" wire in it. It just didn't work as well as the nice soft arc I could tune the MM130 to (which BTW the MM175 wasn't as nice on the low end either). It's got a lot more top end than any of the others and does well on heavy work. I just don't like the arc as well as the MM200 had in the mid range.   I now have a LOT of options on my welders. I've got two XMT304's sitting there as well as suit case feeders for both if needed (most of the time one is setup with dual shield and the other setup for stick welding). Even with all these options I still missed my old MM130 for thin work. Thus when the guy I sold it to decided to buy the MM175 from the guy I'd sold it to I didn't hesitate to buy it back. It's currently sitting on top of my TIG cart spooled up with 0.023" wire for those quick thin jobs I get in. It's the cats meow on things like hydraulic and fuel lines the farmers bring in. I also used it a lot on a nose of a trailer recently welding 18-20ga.   I'm a firm believer that you really need to size the welder to the work. In a shop like mine where I never know what's coming in the door the next minute I believe that the ideal setup would be to have a welder spooled up with each size of wire ready to go at all times. Ideally I would have one with 0.023", 0.030" (this is a nice size for the 14ga range), 0.035" (which is what I keep in my 252 and works well for 3/16"), 0.045" works better for 1/4" and larger than 0.035" but it's such a pain to spool it up that I rarely get to use it. For the heavy work the 0.045" dual shield works well for me though sometimes I could use smaller and occasionally larger would work better.  I just wish I had the room to have all of them ready to go at a moments notice. A lot of my work is short quick jobs where I don't have a clue what's coming in next. Having the right wire for each would be nice. But till then I'm happy I've got my MM130 with the 0.023" wire in it in addition to my MM252 with 0.035" wire. I can make the 0.035" work on 1/8" up to 1/2". It's just not as sweet for some of those sizes as it is for 3/16".   Ok rant over and flame shield going up.
Reply:Originally Posted by whtbaronI ran a hog barn for 30 yrs and everything in there had to be concrete or stainless steel. Manure is incredibly corrosive... any bolt heads would be too round for a wrench after a year, and lag screws would rot right out of a wall. When I tore one end down the nail heads all broke off and the only way to get the nails out was to put vice grips on them one at a time and pull them with a wrecking bar. The corrosion at the bottom was one of the reasons I questioned the open roof. Any monocoque style structure relies on the box shape for strength, much like square tubing. Since part of one side is already open, the rust attacking the other two sides is a serious strength issue. I can see the weight issue of the welder as well. Even my 180C is not a light machine to toss around, and the lead that came with it is not that long. I bought some flux core wire for it in case I had to use it outside, but so far I've never used it.
Reply:I agree with much of what Irish said - especially about wanting a machine spooled with each size of wire - I'm impatient like that too I find my mm210 to be a good middle ground but often just leave in whatever spool is in it no matter what I'm about to weld - less than ideal.I have a 120v mig that I almost never use, it's about 60 lbs with wire in it - heavy enough that the short mig gun forcing it to be moved constantly is an irritation.I think the new inverter migs, with the lighter weight, may change my mind.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Yep, I did that with my O/A and quick disconnects. I've basically got a handle for each tip I use a lot so I can go from cutting to heating to welding faster than you can dig a new tip out of a tool kit. It's going to take me a while before I reach that level with welders though. I walked into a local Hutterite Colony shop and they had a blue wall that would make any of us envious. One dedicated to aluminum, several for stainless steel and a MIG on a shop crane arm that pretty much went anywhere in the shop... which was large enough to work on several semis at once. Ahhh....to dream...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by whtbaronYep, I did that with my O/A and quick disconnects. I've basically got a handle for each tip I use a lot so I can go from cutting to heating to welding faster than you can dig a new tip out of a tool kit. It's going to take me a while before I reach that level with welders though. I walked into a local Hutterite Colony shop and they had a blue wall that would make any of us envious. One dedicated to aluminum, several for stainless steel and a MIG on a shop crane arm that pretty much went anywhere in the shop... which was large enough to work on several semis at once. Ahhh....to dream...
Reply:Haha love your cart man!  Weld her up.
Reply:This from another forum, the Garage Journal, FFYThe voltage of the welder is not going to be a factor here, but the quality of the weld is. I can do some decent 110V Flux welds that are as strong as anything 220V, so long as the metal is appropriate. __________________Jim www.JVBProductions.com, If Jim says it can be done, must be true!
Reply:Originally Posted by BrianCThis from another forum, the Garage Journal, FFYThe voltage of the welder is not going to be a factor here, but the quality of the weld is. I can do some decent 110V Flux welds that are as strong as anything 220V, so long as the metal is appropriate.
Reply:Damn, you guys are brutal!Jim . . . . . different JimJim,I don't mean to be argumentative and cantankerous,but I am getting older and a bit crotchety!Addendum; AND CRANKY
Reply:I heard there is a rumor that the actual name of this site is even going to be changed to include " 110 Not Welcome!"
Reply:Originally Posted by BrianCThis from another forum, the Garage Journal, FFYThe voltage of the welder is not going to be a factor here, but the quality of the weld is. I can do some decent 110V Flux welds that are as strong as anything 220V, so long as the metal is appropriate.
Reply:Bend tests don't tell you everything. It's just the simplest one to do for those without specialized equipment.Here's the big problem with 110v migs. It's not that it can not be done. It's that to do this you have to do everything perfect when exceeding 1/8". You're settings must be right, your prep has to be right, you have to the skill experience to do a good job, and you have to be feeding the machine enough power to get the most out of the machine. Most inexperienced welders fail on one or more of these things pretty regularly. On the other hand if I hand a guy a mig with more power, many of those  things become less important. You have eliminated the input power issue right away, Prep becomes less important because you have the power to burn thru mill scale or thicker stock, settings can be off by a bit and not make as big a deal as usually you can go hotter and compensate if wire speed isn't perfect or you have bigger wire in the machine. Skill becomes less important because with more heat chances are you'll get better fusion to the base material. I crank a machine up out of short arc into spray and you almost have to be incompetent to not have the metal stick together. ( I'm not saying it's well welded, just that it will easily exceed the "hobby" tests most 110v lovers want to use to prove things are "welded".If I hand a inexperienced welder two migs and have them run two beads on similar materials, I'll guarantee  they will make a better bead using a machine with more power if the settings are close to correct. I wish I had a tape of the comments the 1st night from one of my students this term who has a 110v mig at home. I made that buy a 220v mig comment to someone else and saw him roll his eyes when we started class. About half an hour into class he was commenting on how "hot" the XMT was vs his home mig and I had the machine turned way down compared to what the other instructor likes to weld at ( about 17.5v vs him at about 20v on 1/8"). The guy was also the 1st student I've had who managed to bet a nice set of blisters on his left hand from the heat as he wasn't used to how hot the stock gets when running welds with a bigger machine. By the end of class he was telling me he now understood what I was telling the other guy at the beginning of class and his eyes got a bit wide when I told him we didn't even have the machines turned all the way up.If I hand both migs to someone who has the skills and experience to do code quality welds within the capabilities of the machine, it won't matter which they use. more power allows them to go faster and have to not be quite as perfect when making the weld however.I get the reason why 110v migs have such a following. They are inexpensive, easy to plug in without any special extra work, they are readily available and easy to find. They however have definite limitations. those that want to expound that they can do heavy material just show that they either are stubborn and want to fight, or don't know what they are talking about..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Cool, I handed off what is going to be a 3/8 side bend test to get x-rayed.I have used miller 211, 251, 252 and XMT powered wire feeders running fcaw, short circuit CO2, C25 and they were all great. I don't think I have ever used any of those any where near full power, aside from the 211.I am not saying a decent 120 volt machine should always be used in place of or can replace the massively overpowered 240 volt machines. Saying that these 120 volt machines can only do 1/8 or 3/16 inch steel all the time in every situation is a ridiculously false and misleading statement.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveYou're usually so insightful, this is the first time I've seen you delusional I like Zeppelin in the shop though
Reply:Originally Posted by mad welder 4CI am not saying a decent 120 volt machine should always be used in place of or can replace the massively overpowered 240 volt machines. Saying that these 120 volt machines can only do 1/8 or 3/16 inch steel all the time in every situation is a ridiculously false and misleading statement.