First 5 inches of Welding Aluminum

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After a bit of setup this is my first pass Welding Aluminum with new wire. The bottom piece is 1/8" rectangular stock and the top piece is 1/4 inch. I haven't touched the weld after I  finished, it's as is. I'm rather impressed with the lack of spatter and soot. I believe the weld may have a bit too much penetration, but too much is much better than not enough for me. I have a ton more info, but I wanted to get your thoughts if I'm in the right direction.Thanks,Pete Attached ImagesEverlast  i210 with 200a spool gunEverlast i140eLOTOS LTP5000D Non-Touch Pilot Arc "Things are never so bad that they can't get worse...."
Reply:process?  Looks like MIG?  but could be a really weird TIG weld, lol. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by Oscarprocess?  Looks like MIG?  but could be a really weird TIG weld, lol.
Reply:The lack of spatter would be because you were welding in spray transfer rather than short circuit.Might just be the angle and lighting of the photo but it looks you could slow down your travel speed just a little and let the bead fill in a bit more.Some will pause/advance/pause/advance when laying a bead and others will just run a consistent travel speed sufficient to produce the required/desired bead profile.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55The lack of spatter would be because you were welding in spray transfer rather than short circuit.Might just be the angle and lighting of the photo but it looks you could slow down your travel speed just a little and let the bead fill in a bit more.Some will pause/advance/pause/advance when laying a bead and others will just run a consistent travel speed sufficient to produce the required/desired bead profile.
Reply:Too much heat or not enough wire speed or too fast travel speed or gun angle.  Most likely a combination of those.   Just takes practice and experimenting. How much is your standoff , arc gap...I suggest repeating the same weld but change only 1 factor at a time and now how the resulting weld changes.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawToo much heat or not enough wire speed or too fast travel speed or gun angle.  Most likely a combination of those.   Just takes practice and experimenting. How much is your standoff , arc gap...I suggest repeating the same weld but change only 1 factor at a time and now how the resulting weld changes.
Reply:I would agree. Although I would qualify that by saying with the inverter mig you are using, with a strong power supply yes. I am biased, because I have a 140st and a 200st, and the performance of these, compared to 120v transformer welder , has to be seen to be believed. And I'm not schilling for Everlast, just passing along MY experience. By the way are you using one of the earlier 6 ft guns, or the 10 ft?
Reply:Originally Posted by ForneycatorI would agree. Although I would qualify that by saying with the inverter mig you are using, with a strong power supply yes. I am biased, because I have a 140st and a 200st, and the performance of these, compared to 120v transformer welder , has to be seen to be believed. And I'm not schilling for Everlast, just passing along MY experience. By the way are you using one of the earlier 6 ft guns, or the 10 ft?
Reply:fps,That's not looking bad at all for just getting going and getting familiar with the equipment, settings and wire type and size.   Good job man.   Since you seem to be looking for constructive criticism here's mine....start right now to get in the habit of always filling in your craters.  I find this it's usually best accomplished (with any wire process, steel or aluminum, especially when using spray transfer mode) by pausing in place when you first let off the trigger, taking a short count for a couple of seconds and then popping the trigger again for another short squirt of metal on to the stop.   And it's not all that uncommon for me to some times use two or more short squirts at the end (with a slight pause between each one) to really get it filled in like it should be.Last edited by HT2-4956; 04-03-2016 at 10:40 AM.
Reply:When it comes to "smut" (soot) on aluminum MIG welds you might find this enlightening.http://www.thefabricator.com/article...mize-weld-smut
Reply:Originally Posted by HT2-4956fps,That's not looking bad at all for just getting going and getting familiar with the equipment, settings and wire type and size.   Good job man.   Since you seem to be looking for constructive criticism here's mine....start right now to get in the habit of always filling in your craters.  I find this it's usually best accomplished (with any wire process, steel or aluminum, especially when using spray transfer mode) by pausing in place when you first let off the trigger, taking a short count for a couple of seconds and then popping the trigger again for another short squirt of metal on to the stop.   And it's not all that uncommon for me to some times use two or more short squirts at the end (with a slight pause between each one) to really get it filled in like it should be.
Reply:Based on your machine,  I'd focus on the wire speed and travel speed/movement.   It's very easy to see if you are in short circuit or spray.  You should have about a 3/4" stand off.   If you can see the wire touching the puddle as you weld, you are in short circuit.  If you can see the wire vaporize before touching the puddle you are in sprayTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawBased on your machine,  I'd focus on the wire speed and travel speed/movement.   It's very easy to see if you are in short circuit or spray.  You should have about a 3/4" stand off.   If you can see the wire touching the puddle as you weld, you are in short circuit.  If you can see the wire vaporize before touching the puddle you are in spray
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawBased on your machine,  I'd focus on the wire speed and travel speed/movement.   It's very easy to see if you are in short circuit or spray.  You should have about a 3/4" stand off.   If you can see the wire touching the puddle as you weld, you are in short circuit.  If you can see the wire vaporize before touching the puddle you are in spray
Reply:Originally Posted by HT2-4956southpaw,I got to say that a 3/4" stick out (CTWD) with aluminum sounds a little excessive to me.   I'd tend to think that down in the 3/8 to 1/2" range would be a little better.
Reply:Hey guys,I misunderstood. I would say the "wire" stick out is about 1/2", but the arc length to the work is a bit more (3/4?)Everlast  i210 with 200a spool gunEverlast i140eLOTOS LTP5000D Non-Touch Pilot Arc "Things are never so bad that they can't get worse...."
Reply:I just installed smaller .035 4043 wire. It allows me to turn down the heat, but stay in spray. Is this getting better. FYI, I really didn't clean the AL, which I believe what the dirt is from. Please let me know how's this starting to look.Thanks,Pete Attached ImagesEverlast  i210 with 200a spool gunEverlast i140eLOTOS LTP5000D Non-Touch Pilot Arc "Things are never so bad that they can't get worse...."
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawToo much heat or not enough wire speed or too fast travel speed or gun angle.  Most likely a combination of those.   Just takes practice and experimenting. How much is your standoff , arc gap...I suggest repeating the same weld but change only 1 factor at a time and now how the resulting weld changes.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveCan you please clarify what you mean by too much heat or not enough wire speed? Wire speed controls amps so turning it is going to give even more heat. I agree with changing one thing a time to get the machine dialed in.
Reply:Yep, first weld too fast and too hot.Second weld MUCH better.You have decent gas coverage.Keep stickout of wire 3/4" cause it will burn back instantly.And glad you discovered you really don't need a spool gun with short torch lead on thinner stuff.Kinda looks like test pieces are clamped to heatsinks/table or something that helps pull the heat out, so preheat prolly ain't gonna make no difference in what you are learning now.
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderYep, first weld too fast and too hot.Second weld MUCH better.You have decent gas coverage.Keep stickout of wire 3/4" cause it will burn back instantly.And glad you discovered you really don't need a spool gun with short torch lead on thinner stuff.Kinda looks like test pieces are clamped to heatsinks/table or something that helps pull the heat out, so preheat prolly ain't gonna make no difference in what you are learning now.
Reply:From the look of the puddle and the angle it appears that you maybe pulling/draging the gun vice pushing.  I was taught to only PUSH when welding GMAW aluminum.Everlast PowerPro 256, Everlast W300 Cooler, Everlast Cart 250Millermatic 211, Spoolgun 100, Miller HD CartJackson W60 Truesight Digital Auto Darkening, Victor 315 Torch sitting on a Harper 830-86 cart
Reply:Originally Posted by fpsI just installed smaller .035 4043 wire. It allows me to turn down the heat, but stay in spray. Is this getting better. FYI, I really didn't clean the AL, which I believe what the dirt is from. Please let me know how's this starting to look.Thanks,Pete
Reply:Originally Posted by Grandslam99From the look of the puddle and the angle it appears that you maybe pulling/draging the gun vice pushing.  I was taught to only PUSH when welding GMAW aluminum.Originally Posted by HT2-4956Looks to me like your getting real close to being ready to start tackling those aluminum horse trailer repair jobs.
Reply:Originally Posted by fpsYou mean aluminum "Landscape trailers", don't you???