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Now that I have a lathe I've got the hots for a small mill to use in my home shop. Anyone familiar with one of these from the Little-Machine Company? It can be bought without the tooling for around $800.00 or so but the lathe has taught me that tooling is the real cost..http://littlemachineshop.com/product...ory=1387807683
Reply:if you are going to mill small parts that mill will probably fit you fine. The ad shows $1100 and something with a good amount of tooling. Just stuff you have to have anyway. that would be the way to go. Mac
Reply:The used machinery market is chock full of nice used vertical mills, Bridgeport (Hardridge) Lagun and others. I think I'd go for a full sized mill for it's rigidity and capacity and most used machins come with power cross feed and power downfeed, that mill lacks both.The tooling will cost the same for either, irregardlss, R8 is R8 If you decide to look at used mills, just take along a dial indicator and a magnetic base to check spindle concentricity and deflction (TIR). It's easy to do even if the machine isn't under power.Really, thre isn't much to wear out in a full size mill except the ball screws and possibly the spindle bearing packs (which can be checked with an indicator and spun to feel roughness, if any.Nice thing about a full size is it can be run with a cheap static convertor to excite the T3 leg. Lathes are another story. The heavily loaded start requires 3 phase or rotary conversion.
Reply:I'd like a full sized mill but I'm not sure I would have a way to get where I want it to be because of the weight. I had enough problems moving the lathe around. Originally I was looking for a "bench top" Bridgeport or something similar, something heavy duty but doesn't weigh a ton, but haven't been able to find anything.
Reply:Bridgeports and clones come apart for ease of handling. The head (motor and spindle) comes off the ram with 4 capscrews and weighs a couple hundred pounds at most. The ram seperates from the upper base by running the rack out and removing the end stop dowel. It weighs lss than 100 pounds. The upper base seperates from the lower base by unbolting the 4 vertical capscrews, reaching inside the side door and holding on to the spyder inside ro it don't drop.The upper body can bee seperated easily and weighs at most 150 pounds. That leaves the lower casting, the heaviest part at about 300 pounds but it can be handled easily with an engine hoist. I can tear down one in about 30 minutes.....My wife and I have set numerous machines in our shop, some weighing over 6000 pounds with just pipes, hydraulic jacks and an engine hoist.Be sure to set the machine on adjustable machinery pads and level it in 2 axis's with machinery levels to insure accuracy.
Reply:Thanks, that's good advice. It'll make my search a little easier.
Reply:Don't get me wrong, I think the little machines are nice but they are limited in scope. You'll find you quickly outgrow the mini mill unless all you do is minature stuff. I don't.You might want to check out a riser block for a Bridgeport or clone while it's apart. The riser gives you an added 12 (or more depending on how tall the riser is) of tool to bed clearance. I never thought I would need one until I made one. They can be easily made from. seamed steel pipe of the correct diameter so long as you have a lathe that can swing the diameter, I believe it's 14" OD. You'll need to turn a shoulder on the inside diameter to match the shoulder on the base.Commercial ones go for a couple hundred bucks. You can make one in an afternoon for about 30 bucks so long as you have an accurate lathe capable of the swing.
Reply:Hi, I quite agree with the riser fitting, but making it yourself.........gotta have a big lathe for that, but our machinery house outlet sells risers for a number of mills.I sold a Bridgeport mill and bought an Ajax, similar but bigger, and the Ajax came with a 100mm (4") riser already on it.I doubt that a 12" riser for a Bridgeport is a wise decision......if a mini mill is looking attractive the riser for a Bridgeport won't be needed for any work you'd have with a mini mill in mind.A Bridgeport would set you back about $1,500 for a fairly decent though old Bridgeport, and the tooling isn't cheap when you're in that league.BTW, from experience, avoid at all cost a mill drill, the ones with the round column....they aren't worth the money in any form.Ian.
Reply:I think for the money I would look for a bridgeport or clone with readouts, there are also 3/4 size mills, they are harder to find but i've seen them go for $1000 to $2000 depending on condition.. I've seen 9x36 bridgeports go for under $1000 in decent shape, clausing has a few models of the small mills, they usually go for decent money though. also if your interested in a mini-mill make sure you get ballscrews and not leadscrews.. I hired a rigger to unload and set my mill in my shop.. The guy i bought it from loaded it on my single axle trailer with a tractor with frontend loader on it.. I pulled the trailer in front of my garage and called the rigger, he showed up the next day with a fork truck, drove the fork truck under the mill, lifted it up and I drove out from under it.. he then drove the mill in the front of my shop and set it down on skates, then his 2 helpers used prybars and moved it into position and lifted it off the skates, then they leveled it... cost $200 total and was worth every penny, the rigger was insured if anything happened to the machine or my garage it was covered, plus my back thanked me. Rex on my facebook machinery for sale page that had a small millrite for sale in texas (dfw area) I believe, looked like a nice machine for what he was asking for it.. https://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/ about 70% down the page..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:For what you want, this would be nice if it's in your budget. These sometimes go on sale for around 300 bucks off. It's a very nice little machine. I've had real good luck with it, and it fits a small area wellhttp://www.wttool.com/index/page/pro..._shopping=true"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Hard to beat any mill that has a knee...Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Thanks Samm, that's what I've I've been looking for. It would stretch my budget but is manageable. And, it looks like I could go pick it up. At 750lbs it's hardly what I call a "bench top" tool.Last edited by hvw; 12-11-2012 at 05:36 PM.
Reply:Double post.Last edited by hvw; 12-11-2012 at 05:38 PM.Reason: double post
Reply:Originally Posted by hvwThanks Samm, that's what I've I've been looking for. It would stretch my budget but is manageable. And, it looks like I could go pick it up. At 750lbs it's hardly what I call a "bench top" tool.
Reply:Something like this would be a far better value then the one Sam posted. Much more table to spindle clearance. Buy the time you get tooling, and a vice in there. it could really limit you. http://salem.craigslist.org/tls/3478981743.htmlEsab/Lorch ET-220iEsab 160i caddyThermal LM-200 Lincoln feedersThermal Pee-Wee 85sThermal 60i- 3phase /RPC powered (Beast)Thermal Drag-gun 35CINE 1500 Klutch 140i |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:09:22