contaminated tig welds

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I'm welding threaded bungs into 1 inch D.O.M. tube and keep getting pitting and porous welds. what could be contaminating them? I tried to clean everything well. not using a gas lens. and using orange 3/32 electrode.
Reply:How are you cleaning it?  Can you post a few pictures? Clean the inside to remove cutting fluid?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:cut it dry and scrubbed with sand paper. I'll get a pic.
Reply:I got frustrated and tried to burn is out. I know that doesn't work.
Reply:Use a grinder with flap disk to clean it to bare steel. Can't tell from the picture how clean it was. Check for leaks in the hose and make sure you have good flow through the torch.   How much tungsten stick out do you use? Cup size?  Cfh? Keep the tungsten as close to the steel as you can without touching when adding filler.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:#7 probably 1/4 inch or so. just ordered a new torch body, threads were seized and stripped when taking collet holder out. the steal is new and I thought it was clean. no rust and no cutting fluid. I know the pics turned out blurry.
Reply:Any chance you had the wrong polarity? Was the tungsten still sharp after you did that?Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Sorta looks like a shielding gas issue to me. Are the tubes your welding sealed or open on the ends? What type of machine are you running and are you using a post flow timer?Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:they are not sealed. a coped end and a pressed in bung on the other. the bung is drilled through.  miller sync 200. 18 cfh. does have post flow. the tungsten was ''fuzzy"?  Last edited by cobrabuilder; 12-16-2014 at 12:16 PM.
Reply:U always gota clean metal to shiney metal with tig! Like mentioned above 80 flap wheel is best. Then acetone then a clean brush if there are rags parts stuck on the metal! Are you new to tig welding? What rod are you using?you could even use 13 or less cfh and a #4 or #6 cup if you use a short tungsten stick out like 3/16 or less and get a gas lense.
Reply:well Ive done it before in a manufacturing setting. same part all day long. I'll get it cleaner next time I try. could I be running too much amperage?ER70S-6 rod.
Reply:Seems like a shielding gas issue to me also.
Reply:Clean the metal and acetone it and snap another photo. Try a 70s2 rod. I heard it will contaminate ur weld less
Reply:Make sure your cup is bottoming out up against the white insulator and the insulator against ur torch
Reply:just now welded this with a #4 cup and 11cfh 1/2 to 1/4 steel t joint. Number 7 is over kill and kills gas.
Reply:what amperage was that at? and thanks for all the advise everyone.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313just now welded this with a #4 cup and 11cfh 1/2 to 1/4 steel t joint. Number 7 is over kill and kills gas.
Reply:Everyone of these welds is a outy. Your eyes arnt as good as you think. And no crack mabye glare
Reply:zap wasted his time trying to troll! I would of liked to get a better pic but my iPhone doesn't like to focus very well
Reply:Originally Posted by cobrabuilderwhat amperage was that at? and thanks for all the advise everyone.
Reply:not yet. have to do some other things first.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313zap wasted his time trying to troll! I would of liked to get a better pic but my iPhone doesn't like to focus very well
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterTroll?Better be careful of what you type.Notice what it says next to my av.....On second angle look you are correct and I am not.But that first pic SURE does look like a hole and crack and trust me.I see EVERYTHING....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabOh brother....So a title excludes you from being an a-hole?
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYep...And if anyone accused you of being a troll I would get on their azz too....zap!Merry Christmas....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:OK.....everyone involved.I am sorry.All taken on the wrong content and I guess that's the way it goes sometimes reading the written word and not in direct conversation.Sorry again.I will try to be nicer in the future....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterOK.....everyone involved.I am sorry.All taken on the wrong content and I guess that's the way it goes sometimes reading the written word and not in direct conversation.Sorry again.I will try to be nicer in the future....zap!
Reply:this one came out better I floord it the whole time at 160 except for the last puddle or 2. #4 cup at 11cfh. Notice the grinder marks. I like to use a grinding wheel first lightly then use a flap wheel to get the scale off. It saves your flap wheels and time if you do it this way. Try a 6 cup at 15 cfh
Reply:The cup size isn't the problem. You got bad gas or a bad leak. Try running a dry bead and see what happens.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGThe cup size isn't the problem. You got bad gas or a bad leak. Try running a dry bead and see what happens.
Reply:What gas are you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Apology accepted!!! Now let's help this guy figure out his problems!!!!!!
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerfinally someone with some welding knowledge lolthats clearly a gas issue, no shielding gas or leak. can you hear the gas at the cup. how much gas are you running.Try the above first. run a bead on plain mild steel and show results.and metal doesnt have to be shiny to tig weld you can weld some pretty nasty stuff tig. Just got to know how. I rarely ever clean metals.like that mild steel above I wouldn't clean it unless it needed to be pretty
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerfinally someone with some welding knowledge lolthats clearly a gas issue, no shielding gas or leak. can you hear the gas at the cup. how much gas are you running.Try the above first. run a bead on plain mild steel and show results.and metal doesnt have to be shiny to tig weld you can weld some pretty nasty stuff tig. Just got to know how. I rarely ever clean metals.like that mild steel above I wouldn't clean it unless it needed to be pretty
Reply:Ztfab welding school 101 right there!
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabHere's some more, "welding knowledge" for you. Mill scale takes more amperage to weld through, is a contaminant, and causes undercut and lack of fusion."Can" you weld through it, yes. Should you, no.
Reply:Post some of your welds! Sure you can weld over anything but it ain't gona turn out good
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerno clean unless it needs to be pretty. as long as their is penetration and no undercut then its good to go in my book
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerfinally someone with some welding knowledge lolthats clearly a gas issue, no shielding gas or leak. can you hear the gas at the cup. how much gas are you running.Try the above first. run a bead on plain mild steel and show results.and metal doesnt have to be shiny to tig weld you can weld some pretty nasty stuff tig. Just got to know how. I rarely ever clean metals.like that mild steel above I wouldn't clean it unless it needed to be pretty
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabHere's some more, "welding knowledge" for you. Mill scale takes more amperage to weld through, is a contaminant, and causes undercut and lack of fusion."Can" you weld through it, yes. Should you, no.
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerfinally someone with some welding knowledge lolthats clearly a gas issue, no shielding gas or leak. can you hear the gas at the cup. how much gas are you running.Try the above first. run a bead on plain mild steel and show results.and metal doesnt have to be shiny to tig weld you can weld some pretty nasty stuff tig. Just got to know how. I rarely ever clean metals.like that mild steel above I wouldn't clean it unless it needed to be pretty
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugRead post #5. As for cleaning, you don't know what you are doing.
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerapparently Israel military and US military disagreelaywire all day, like I said they dont need to look pretty just need to be strong and these are all tested randomly to the point of breakage.
Reply:Originally Posted by taizerapparently Israel military and US military disagreelaywire all day, like I said they dont need to look pretty just need to be strong and these are all tested randomly to the point of breakage.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabApparently you don't know your materials very well. The last two pics are of HRPO (Hot Rolled Pickled and Oiled) Steel.The Mill scale has already been chemically stripped so removing it is not required.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabApparently you don't know your materials very well. The last two pics are of HRPO (Hot Rolled Pickled and Oiled) Steel.The Mill scale has already been chemically stripped so removing it is not required.
Reply:They look good for not cleaning anything at all
Reply:I finally got the parts to fix my torch (stripped threads) and time to try it out. went back to the larger cup. tried a sample of the D.O.M. and it came out much better. not as nice looking as some of you'r pictures but no popping and pitting. I'm going to try to put a threaded bung in soon.
Reply:and I'm running 12-13 cfh of argon.  I'll have to work on the roll of coins effect later. Thanks for all the advise. JasonLast edited by cobrabuilder; 02-06-2015 at 09:51 AM.