Burn through on sheet metal

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I am making a book end for my English class out of a old mower deck that is 3/16" thickness. I have got to welding it together and I am struggling with burn through. I know I'm going to get hate but I'm using a Harbor Freight 80 amp DC welder with 1/16" 7014 at 40 amps. Does any one have any advice to help with burn through. I am looking for any tips any one may have. Thanks y'all have a blessed day!Last edited by SHW&F; 05-03-2016 at 08:58 AM.Reason: Spelling
Reply:Do you have access to a MIG?-Chris
Reply:3/16,shouldn't a problem, keep your arc short and move along , don't take any naps along the way.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mr. SmithDo you have access to a MIG?
Reply:Originally Posted by BrianC3/16,shouldn't a problem, keep your arc short and move along , don't take any naps along the way.
Reply:Are you sure of the deck thickness you're telling us?  0.188" thick?  That's in the commercial deck thickness range.  I've never run 1/16 rod, but burn-through shouldn't be a problem with 1/16" on 3/16" steel, regardless of what rod type you were using.  Now if you're actually welding on a standard homeowner-thickness deck, maybe 14 gauge or so, I could understand your problem a little better.  I'm going to assume that's the case.Generally burn-through comes from too much heat concentrated in one area, whether you're moving too slow, not letting the part cool sufficiently between passes, etc.  If you're trying to do a butt weld, can you redesign for a lap or fillet joint instead?  Butt welds are the hardest for a beginner because of the heat buildup along the edges.  Unless you have the amperage way too low, you have to move fast or you lose the weld.  But not too fast, or you don't get a proper weld.  I don't use them for what I do, but 6013 is the "go-to" sheet metal rod.  You might want to try some of them in a thickness your welder can handle.
Reply:Originally Posted by tbone550Are you sure of the deck thickness you're telling us?  0.188" thick?  That's in the commercial deck thickness range.  I've never run 1/16 rod, but burn-through shouldn't be a problem with 1/16" on 3/16" steel, regardless of what rod type you were using.  Now if you're actually welding on a standard homeowner-thickness deck, maybe 14 gauge or so, I could understand your problem a little better.  I'm going to assume that's the case.Generally burn-through comes from too much heat concentrated in one area, whether you're moving too slow, not letting the part cool sufficiently between passes, etc.  If you're trying to do a butt weld, can you redesign for a lap or fillet joint instead?  Butt welds are the hardest for a beginner because of the heat buildup along the edges.  Unless you have the amperage way too low, you have to move fast or you lose the weld.  But not too fast, or you don't get a proper weld.  I don't use them for what I do, but 6013 is the "go-to" sheet metal rod.  You might want to try some of them in a thickness your welder can handle.
Reply:Originally Posted by SHW&FI am making a book end for my English class out of a old mower deck that is 3/16" thickness. I have got to welding it together and I am struggling with burn through. I know I'm going to get hate but I'm using a Harbor Freight 80 amp DC welder with 1/16" 7014 at 40 amps. Does any one have any advice to help with burn through. I am looking for any tips any one may have. Thanks y'all have a blessed day!
Reply:Pictures are worth about 1000 posts, then we can figure out which of your measurements is off. Clean metal on both sides of both pieces, clamp a big chunk of Aluminum or copper on the back so it contacts with as much surface area as possible, tack on both ends, and you should have no trouble. The cheaper the welder the harder it is to use, so you might need a few dozen tries.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by BrazinPictures are worth about 1000 posts, then we can figure out which of your measurements is off. Clean metal on both sides of both pieces, clamp a big chunk of Aluminum or copper on the back so it contacts with as much surface area as possible, tack on both ends, and you should have no trouble. The cheaper the welder the harder it is to use, so you might need a few dozen tries.
Reply:Use 6013 rod, DCEN polarity and run it flat or vertical down as fast as you can.Miller Multimatic 255