06 Ram rehab....I hate salt brine!

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I've had this truck since 2010. About 5 or 6 years ago I bought a commuter car and the truck sits most of the time. Couple that and the salt brine the state uses in the winter, the old truck has gone to hell.Time for some much needed attention. Attached ImagesLast edited by Ron_J; 02-15-2021 at 01:22 PM.
Reply:Nice repair.Hard to believe 11 year old truck rotted out that bad....not really I guess.I despise brine, I do not see any advantage to it other than to make work for body shops. They say it makes the snow and crap easier to remove from the asphalt but I don't recall any difference from years ago when all they used was salt....which was bad enough.Ever get it undercoated? That looks like it's a perfect spot to hold salt and crap.................Mike
Reply:Are you concerned about the frame?  It looks like the rust has a good start beneath that body mount member for the bed.  I can't honestly give a number, but I've sprayed cavity wax and cosmoline into my rocker panels many many many times.  Can never have too much!  I do a recoat on the frame and under carriage about 2 - 3 times a year, always more often than needed.  Cosmoline is available by the 5 gal bucket (or larger if you desire) and so is Fluid Film, which is also a great undercoat.
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldalittleAre you concerned about the frame?  It looks like the rust has a good start beneath that body mount member for the bed.  I can't honestly give a number, but I've sprayed cavity wax and cosmoline into my rocker panels many many many times.  Can never have too much!  I do a recoat on the frame and under carriage about 2 - 3 times a year, always more often than needed.  Cosmoline is available by the 5 gal bucket (or larger if you desire) and so is Fluid Film, which is also a great undercoat.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyNice repair.Hard to believe 11 year old truck rotted out that bad....not really I guess.I despise brine, I do not see any advantage to it other than to make work for body shops. They say it makes the snow and crap easier to remove from the asphalt but I don't recall any difference from years ago when all they used was salt....which was bad enough.Ever get it undercoated? That looks like it's a perfect spot to hold salt and crap.................Mike
Reply:I'm not sure how old you are, but I remember a time when all they did was plow roads down to about an inch of snow, and just fling some gravel at intersections.The snow packed down on the road, and gave better traction than a bare road with refrozen ice that's left behind by today's techniques.I suppose today, and today's generation, is all about protecting people from stupid.  Back in the day, you learned to drive on snow, and you lived with the delays that snow days caused.  It was not the point-and-click world of today.  And...........................we survived
Reply:I'm just a grumpy ol' guy  I'm sure ya've met a few
Reply:really nice job on the dodge
Reply:I'm not sure how old you are, but I remember a time when all they did was plow roads down to about an inch of snow, and just fling some gravel at intersections.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmI'm not sure how old you are, but I remember a time when all they did was plow roads down to about an inch of snow, and just fling some gravel at intersections.The snow packed down on the road, and gave better traction than a bare road with refrozen ice that's left behind by today's techniques.I suppose today, and today's generation, is all about protecting people from stupid.  Back in the day, you learned to drive on snow, and you lived with the delays that snow days caused.  It was not the point-and-click world of today.  And...........................we survived
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikey65 and yes I do remember, also don't remember as much rust on vehicles as we have now. A lot of that tho is probably because vehicles were built with some substance not tissue thin tin can steel...or wanna be steel.Ain't that the truth.............Mike
Reply:Instead of complaining about the brine, consider criticizing the manufacturer who only warrants the vehicle for 3 years. I was amazed to crawl under my "aluminium" F150 to find so much raw, not even painted, steel. And while I'm on a roll, what bright spark thought it would be a good idea to use soy-based wire insulation? A warm place with food, what rat wouldn't like that?Do not believe everything that you think.
Reply:Originally Posted by XsbankInstead of complaining about the brine, consider criticizing the manufacturer who only warrants the vehicle for 3 years. I was amazed to crawl under my "aluminium" F150 to find so much raw, not even painted, steel. And while I'm on a roll, what bright spark thought it would be a good idea to use soy-based wire insulation? A warm place with food, what rat wouldn't like that?
Reply:Was able to finish the passenger side. I had to make a panel for the under side. Fortunately there was enough steel to weld to. Its not going to last forever, but it will do for a while considering it will sit in the garage most of the time. Next, the drivers sde. Attached Images
Reply:I finished the body work and got the bed back on. Still need to find a door. The local pick n pull has one, but i need to look at it to see if its decent. Hope to finish prepping and paint this week.
Reply:i hope that you welded all the overlapped panel in solid.  the inner rocker panel also except where the factory spot welds go.  inner panel rust proofing helps but solid weld is best.  make sure there are drain holes like factory one and keep drains clear.  todays factory primer is water proof like paint.  same for 2k primer.lincoln 125spmonkey wards 250 ac/dcmiller 211 w/spool gunahp  200 sx tiglotos ltp5000dof course duramax diesel
Reply:Originally Posted by duramax-robi hope that you welded all the overlapped panel in solid.  the inner rocker panel also except where the factory spot welds go.  inner panel rust proofing helps but solid weld is best.  make sure there are drain holes like factory one and keep drains clear.  todays factory primer is water proof like paint.  same for 2k primer.
Reply:Nice work on the repair.Wouldn't part of "Make America Great Again" include high quality products? That truck is only 15 years old and it will end up in the landfill before its 20. The technology is there but there is no will...that wasn't me, that was my brother the curmudgeon.My boat was made in '75 and it's every bit as complex as the average truck. I'll probably sell it soon and it will go on floating for another 40 years. It is possible.Last edited by Xsbank; 03-01-2021 at 12:56 PM.Do not believe everything that you think.
Reply:Originally Posted by XsbankNice work on the repair.Wouldn't part of "Make America Great Again" include high quality products? That truck is only 15 years old and it will end up in the landfill before its 20. The technology is there but there is no will...that wasn't me, that was my brother the curmudgeon.My boat was made in '75 and it's every bit as complex as the average truck. I'll probably sell it soon and it will go on floating for another 40 years. It is possible.
Reply:Originally Posted by duramax-robi hope that you welded all the overlapped panel in solid.  the inner rocker panel also except where the factory spot welds go.  inner panel rust proofing helps but solid weld is best.  make sure there are drain holes like factory one and keep drains clear.  todays factory primer is water proof like paint.  same for 2k primer.
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitTwas me, I would have sold the tailgate, scarped the bed,  and used the money to turn the truck into a manly flatbed.   Pickup beds are for girlymen.  I hoping to do an old Dodge that way this summer.
Reply:Its done. Well, i need some double sided tape to put a piece of rubber gasket in the door and attach the visor. Its also gonna need some buffing to get a decent shine, but all in all, I'm pretty happy with it.
Reply:Back in the day, when I used to do this stuff.................repairs were made with a laquer, and you had to buff it out to match the surrounding enamel.  I didn't know any OEM paints (or something that is supposed to be close to OEM) has to be buffed these daysI'm just not up with the times I guess.  I'd be interested to know just what you shot that thing with
Reply:I guess all's I know is enamel.  Even the old Powerwagon was done in DuPont (Centaur????????????????  I can't remember the name of the stuff.......it was a basic enamel that was a step below Imron if that's the correct name for that stuff.......was some sorta fancy stuff)You sprayed wet.........and fast.........on the edge of running, and it made a beautiful finish.I do the same with the el cheapo equipment enamel I use these days (shrug).  It's all about thinning with the right speed thinner, and how ya run the gun.I'd be pretty pizzzzzzed if I had to buff this stuff  Crap should go on shiny, and stay shiny
Reply:The truck looks real good BTW  Can't tell it was patched!!!!!!!!!!!!!Originally Posted by farmersammmBack in the day, when I used to do this stuff.................repairs were made with a laquer, and you had to buff it out to match the surrounding enamel.  I didn't know any OEM paints (or something that is supposed to be close to OEM) has to be buffed these daysI'm just not up with the times I guess.  I'd be interested to know just what you shot that thing with
Reply:Originally Posted by Ron_JI used a base coat clear coat system and just a cheap harbor freight gun.I dont think it is necessary to buff it normally to get a shine, but this one will be. Ive painted different things the same way and they all shined just fine with no buffing. Not this time. I probably didnt put it on wet enough but i was worried about it running.
Reply:Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately I don't see the need to be doing any painting in the near future, So I will probably have to relearn it all over again.Kind of the story of my life. Welding seems to be the same way...by the end of a project, the welds start to look pretty good. Then I don't use it again for a while and lose the feel.