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cooler pump problem

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:06:33 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I have an airco water cooler for my lincoln  300/300. I used it a few weeks ago and all worked fine. Yesterday i welded on a project and my torch had a complete melt down! Upon inspection i found that my water cooler was not pumping. The motor and fan turn as it always has. I took it apart and docent seem to be clogged. What could have happened to it while it just sat? The pump is an oberdorfer 1000r-53. Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by setterdogI have an airco water cooler for my lincoln  300/300. I used it a few weeks ago and all worked fine. Yesterday i welded on a project and my torch had a complete melt down! Upon inspection i found that my water cooler was not pumping. The motor and fan turn as it always has. I took it apart and docent seem to be clogged. What could have happened to it while it just sat? The pump is an oberdorfer 1000r-53. Thanks!
Reply:setterdogYesterday i welded on a project and my torch had a complete melt down!Does that mean you burn-up your torch?Re-read your own post  -  i found that my water cooler was not pumping,then, I took it apart and docent seem to be clogged.There are no new failures in typical TIG system.There is more to your individual problem than you have observed, so the chance for a 'silver bullet' answer from the forum is low.If the pump 'pumps' and the torch flows, the most common cause is that the pump experienced current/interruptius. This is an embarrassing circumstance to admit too, but on three occasions:I have flashed  -  current/interruptius  -  before all of my co-workers.Recovery  -  mandates I acknowledge these/my failures.The good news  -  recovery from Current/Interruptius is a two step program.Buy a new torch  -  and keep the cooler plugged in.Opus
Reply:Maybe i wasn't clear in my post , The cooler was plugged in and it did run while i welded.  the water in line (to the torch) melted and i immediately turned the machine off. I wondered why there wasn't water leaking everywhere? I turned the machine back on , cooler running , but no water. Yesterday i disconnected all of the lines and cleaned everything out. I took apart the bronze pump housing and the gears seemed to be in tact and working smooth. I filled the tank back up , put the top part ( radiator , motor , and pump) back on , turned it on but no water? What other seals are there besides where the main housing joins? There was a paper gasket there. Thanks
Reply:oberdoffers cannot suck any air whatsoever. Check the inlet side pickup tube from the tank. Also whatever you do, do not take the front shaft seal apart with replacement parts. It will leak out of it when you put it back together. I put a pressure gauge in line so I can see if there is an issue with pressure drop.T.J.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Tn , thanks a lot. I took all of the lines off and poured water into the pump (primed it).  Once I did that it seemed to pump correctly then. The seal where the pump attaches to the shaft is leaking and is possibly the cause of my problem. I just can't figure out why it lost prime? It did cost me a wp 20. Thanks for the info.
Reply:If your cooler is like mine, the pump sits over the tank. The water in the pump naturally wants to flow back down into the tank, what keeps it in there, when the pump is not running, is that it would have to create a vacuum inside the pump for it to flow out. Kind of like putting your finger over the end of a drinking straw. When the pump housing leaks, it can leak water out or air in. Air leaking in would release the vacuum, and the water can flow down. So the pump went dry, and lost it's prime.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Ahh , that makes sense. Thanks a lot for the feedback from all. Oberdorfer no longer makes this model pump but still have the parts. I guess I will just replace the seals and stick with it. I've learned a lot from my little melt down
Reply:Forty , what type of pressure gauge did you use? That sounds like a great idea.
Reply:If your pump is similar to mine, the nut is a "gland nut". it's function is to compress the packing (seal material) to prevent fluid loss along the shaft. IF the packing is still good you should be able to tighten the nut to seal the shaft. CAUTION: Pump should be running and leaking. Tighten the nut incrementally.Some very small amout of leakage is actually a good thing as it helps to lubricate the shaft and prevent shaft/packing burnout. If your pump sits atop the resevoir there may be a hole in the resevoir just below the pump shaft/housing and that is why its there. I stuck a cap plug into the tank bore as there were mice falling into it. Apparently they like the taste of anti-freeze also. Attached Images
Reply:My cooler is an old tweco unit. My pump is an oberdorfer, and looks similiar, but not quite the same as millrat's. On mine there is no gland nut that is accessible from the outside, IRC there is an internal spring seal instead of packing. Mine does not leak while running, and there is no hole to catch drips.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:My pump is a little different than yours but it leaks exactly where the you are describing. There is no hole there on mine but there will be soon! Shouldn't affect anything since the reservoir isn't pressurized.
Reply:Finally got my pump to hold seal and stop slinging coolant everywhere. Im sure some of you older guys have delt with graphite packing in the past? I used it for the first time yesterday. There was an old guy at an electric motor repair place informed me that it is what my pump was sealed with. If you've never used it its basically grease and graphite saturated rope that you cut to size and pack around the shaft for a seal. Worked great but some nasty stuff.
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