6G Test Stick Weld?

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I need some advice. Like a step by step process on how to approach this test from start to end with specifics. The tools being used are a 1/8 E6010 for filler and a 3/32 E7018 for cap. The pipe to be welded is a 2" Schedule 80 Pipe at a 45 degree angle. Now I want detailed step by step instructions on how to do this. For example the tacks, do you need to set the amperage higher for the tacks, and then bring it down when you are going to begin your filler? The weld will be made going uphill. Since it will be made going uphill, should the travel speed be a little faster? Also, should there be a little waiting period between welds so that the welds have time to cool down? When putting the 7018 cap should the amperage be higher or lower? Should "walk the cup" be used in this type of welding test? I just want thorough in depth absolutely super specific detailed description on how to have everything set up perfectly for this test and the proper techniques to do a really great weld. Thanks!
Reply:Asking questions like this prove that you ARE NOT ready to take this test!  Asking about walking the cup on a stick only test and pipe beveled at 45 degrees gives further proof of your lack of knowledge.  Makes me think you have not been welding very long, if at all.  Take a welding class at your CC and learn the basics, then practice, practice, practice.  Sounds like you need to learn how to swim before jumping into the deep end of the pool."The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.
Reply:pipeline'em, I went and read a few of your previous posts and it appears you are doing this for your dad.  Please accept my apology for being so abrupt with your questions regarding a 6G weld test. Here is a website that could be very helpful for him.  It gives some great tips in the bottom third of the site. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...e=story16.htmlAsk more questions as needed and we will try to help him.  All we can do is give advice, he's the one that needs the hood time.  Tell him we're rooting for him and remember, if you get thrown off the horse, get back on and ride the SOB again.  Don't ever give up.  Good luck, Bob."The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.
Reply:If you go to rigwelder.com under general welding questions, rodburner gives some good info on the 12 on 12 branch.Also on the AWS forum there's a lot more pipe welding professionals. Use the search feature and do a search and there's a lot of info there as well. Its nice to see a son willing to go out of his way to help his father!  Please don't hesitate to ask, and we will help.In an earlier post you wanted to know what kind of tools he might need, well if doesn't have any lay out tools get him some, such as contour marker, angle finders, center finders, wrap around, torpedo levels, templates for the 12 on 12 and so on.Hope this is helpful.
Reply:Originally Posted by Bob the WelderAsking questions like this prove that you ARE NOT ready to take this test!  Asking about walking the cup on a stick only test and pipe beveled at 45 degrees gives further proof of your lack of knowledge.  Makes me think you have not been welding very long, if at all.  Take a welding class at your CC and learn the basics, then practice, practice, practice.  Sounds like you need to learn how to swim before jumping into the deep end of the pool.
Reply:If nobody else is going to take the time to type out their settings, I'll do it. Remember what works for me may not work for someone else.What I like.37 1/2 degree bevel.A heavy 1/16 to 5/64-inch land.I use a 5/64 or 3/32-inch drill bit to set the gap.Make four tacks, 3, 6, 9, 12. About 1/4 to 3/8-inch long. Thin the tacks for depth with a die grinder, and make a ramp on each side of the tacks. For the root 1/8-inch 6010 I like 65 to 70 -amps.Hot pass, 1/8-inch 6010 75-amps.3/32-inch 7018, 75-amps. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:These may help too. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:pipeline'em, read post # 3."The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.
Reply:my opinion is pretty close to CEP'sI like 1/8" gap 3/32" to 1/8" land. 37.5 degree bevel.beat the flux of a rod and bend in a sharp "u" to set the gap.i like 3 tacks in 2" , but its not that important,what's important is putting the longest tack that you can get a way with in the 6 O'clock position.(if 3 tacks then they would be 10 and 2 o' clock. i like this as i can make it from 6 to 10 in one go and then re position for the 10 to 12 easy)"travel speed" is determined by watching the puddle and experience. but yes when you get to the verticle then you cant stay in the same place , you have to lead it up ot it will all fall out on you.dont forget a tight arc with 7018.i set the amps for 6010 at @65, but will go up 5+ amps if the gap closes.i havn't done 6010 hot pass in this situation so i wont comment.the cap is 3/32" 7018 at 80A after i let the pipe cool.Hope this helpsGG
Reply:I like a strong 1/8 land and strong 1/8 gap for 1/8 6010 root pass. 80-85 ampsStrong 3/32 land and strong 3/32 gap for a 3/32 6010 root pass. 60- 65 ampsThe least tacks you can use without ending up with a dogleg in the pipe is what you want.Ss already said. largest tack goes into 6 oclock position when you get your piece up to 6g.Watchg the key hole putting in your root pass. Watch for changes in the size of the key hole as you go around the pipe. If it chamges in size, you need to adjust acordingly to compensate for changes in penitration. You want to the same amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe joint, all the way around.When your root is in, if your happy with the amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, call the inspector to have a look.When he says carry on, run your 6010 hot pass down .If you need more reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, run your hot pass up with maybe 5 more amps.You will want to grind down your 6010 root pass and hot pass before welding over top of it.3/32 7018 all up 80-85 amps. Allow your pipe to cool before capping.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by Bob the Welderpipeline'em, I went and read a few of your previous posts and it appears you are doing this for your dad.  Please accept my apology for being so abrupt with your questions regarding a 6G weld test. Here is a website that could be very helpful for him.  It gives some great tips in the bottom third of the site. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...e=story16.htmlAsk more questions as needed and we will try to help him.  All we can do is give advice, he's the one that needs the hood time.  Tell him we're rooting for him and remember, if you get thrown off the horse, get back on and ride the SOB again.  Don't ever give up.  Good luck, Bob.
Reply:Originally Posted by cajun welderIf you go to rigwelder.com under general welding questions, rodburner gives some good info on the 12 on 12 branch.Also on the AWS forum there's a lot more pipe welding professionals. Use the search feature and do a search and there's a lot of info there as well. Its nice to see a son willing to go out of his way to help his father!  Please don't hesitate to ask, and we will help.In an earlier post you wanted to know what kind of tools he might need, well if doesn't have any lay out tools get him some, such as contour marker, angle finders, center finders, wrap around, torpedo levels, templates for the 12 on 12 and so on.Hope this is helpful.
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeI like a strong 1/8 land and strong 1/8 gap for 1/8 6010 root pass. 80-85 ampsStrong 3/32 land and strong 3/32 gap for a 3/32 6010 root pass. 60- 65 ampsThe least tacks you can use without ending up with a dogleg in the pipe is what you want.Ss already said. largest tack goes into 6 oclock position when you get your piece up to 6g.Watchg the key hole putting in your root pass. Watch for changes in the size of the key hole as you go around the pipe. If it chamges in size, you need to adjust acordingly to compensate for changes in penitration. You want to the same amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe joint, all the way around.When your root is in, if your happy with the amount of reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, call the inspector to have a look.When he says carry on, run your 6010 hot pass down .If you need more reinforcement on the inside of the pipe, run your hot pass up with maybe 5 more amps.You will want to grind down your 6010 root pass and hot pass before welding over top of it.3/32 7018 all up 80-85 amps. Allow your pipe to cool before capping.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPIf nobody else is going to take the time to type out their settings, I'll do it. Remember what works for me may not work for someone else.What I like.37 1/2 degree bevel.A heavy 1/16 to 5/64-inch land.I use a 5/64 or 3/32-inch drill bit to set the gap.Make four tacks, 3, 6, 9, 12. About 1/4 to 3/8-inch long. Thin the tacks for depth with a die grinder, and make a ramp on each side of the tacks. For the root 1/8-inch 6010 I like 65 to 70 -amps.Hot pass, 1/8-inch 6010 75-amps.3/32-inch 7018, 75-amps.
Reply:Originally Posted by pipeline'emHey I had a question. My dad welds up all the time, should he weld down in any part of the 6G test process? He says that welding up is a better quality weld. Any thoughts?
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThese may help too.
Reply:I picked up a  trick from years of taking this test, it really makes that cap slick. After the root and hot pass are in or flushed out on heavier pipe and you have the first stringer ran the whole way around leave the slag on and start the next stringer keep in tight don't try to burn down into the heavy slag just let the rod burn the light slag on the upper edge of the first stringer away. The slag from the first stringer will hold everything in place and give you a nice slick cap. This also works very good in the horizontal.
Reply:Originally Posted by pipeline'emI was wondering if you could tell me your technique for welding from the bottom 6 o'clock to the 9 o'clock. The technique my dad says he is using is something like a J he said.