Critique my vertical up mig

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Miller 252. .190 steel. 20 v 350 ws. 15 cfh 75 /25. Very shaky.  Sitting on my butt getting my hair burned looking up.  . Looks like toes are wetted in maybe too much?  Vertical up will always have a raised center right?  Im using a pause on the sides and a quick swipe down the middle, following front of puddle.Any sort of advice will be soaked in. Attached ImagesLast edited by brendonv; 03-06-2015 at 03:19 PM.
Reply:Are you using a V or U shaped motion? I usually prefer to go straight side to side building "shelves" moving up just slightly on each side.If you tightened up your motions and moved side to side 2x and often as you are now, you'd close up the rough edges more and that might also help you flatten things out. To me it doesn't look like you are quite holding the edges long enough, and aren't crossing the center fast enough. Again if you are reading the puddle, tightening up your motions may solve this as when you move up a greater distance, you have to go slower to fill, thus you often get more material in the center.A good fillet should be flat or just slightly convex. You shouldn't have a big hump in the center..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I agree with DSW.I use an upwards triangular motion. Start at the root of the fillet then drop down to one side, pause, quickly across to the other side, pause, then back up....if that makes any sense.-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:Just reading over your original post again. I would suggest turning up your shielding gas to 25cfh. Just my $.02-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:Thanks. I used more or less a u shaped technique. Doug,myour saying you use more of a z?  Ill give it a try. I probably wasnt holding the corners long enough kike you mentioned. Ill give it some more tries.
Reply:@ brendonv - should aid you in MIG 3F.  Pass #1, try a triangle or upside down "v".  Passes #2-3, use a tight:tight "z" weave.  Reduce your WFS to 210-250 and experiment with Voltages between 18 and 19.  Will post a few photos of my amateur 3Fs on 3/8" HRS.Go for throttle up! Attached ImagesLast edited by ManoKai; 03-07-2015 at 08:31 AM."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:i myself do a z weave... starting on say for example the left, then move directly to the right, after that you move is just above the 1st puddle, then straight again to the right!ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Reply:Start a weld. Then stop after a couple of zigs or zags.Look at what you have. You should have something of a little sort of circular, sort of triangular 'shelf' started. You want your puddle to kinda stay on the top of that shelf. If you jump back and forth, the shelf will not be there, and your weld will look like you, well, jumped back and forth.You want to maintain a smooth rhythm, dictated by the shape of the puddle, not a count of across 1,2, across 1,2, etc.By maintaining a consistently shaped puddle (just as with flat welds), you will end up with a consistently shaped bead.if you go too fast across the middle, the shelf in the middle will not form, and gravity will have its effect on the molten puddle.If you go too slowly across the middle, gravity will have its effect on the molten puddle as well.Hobart Beta-Mig 2511972 Miller AEAD-200LEMiller 250 TwinNorthern Ind. Hybrid 200Longevity Stick 140Longevity Migweld 200SThermal Arc Pak 3XR
Reply:IRT post #6, imagery provided.  .035 ER70S-6 Lincoln, 18.7V with 230-250 WFS.  C25 shielding @ 25CFH.  BLUE gear.  Three pass.  Pass #1 using "triangle".  Passes #2 and 3 using weave.  The center section is flat to slight convex.  Toes wett'n in ok, but overall needs work on consistency.  The sugar-free RED Bulls didn't advance my technique for nut'n.  Ha!Keep practicing 'brendov', illumination for you will occur. Attached Images"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:I personally don't use the V or U technique for mig welding except on one occasion at my last job when i had a 3" id pipe and my fill and cap had to be the same pass that's the only time i used a V pattern other than that i use a tight Z pattern as i prefer it the most.  To me and this is just my opinion so i hope i don't get jumped for it but the shielding gas could be turned up a bit and i think the welder is a bit warm for the width of your vertical up.  In other words a wider weld could result in a slightly better weld that's just me though.  Here is one i did awhile back on my 211 when i was setting it up so don't worry about it because it wasn't set right but in terms of how my Z pattern normally looks this is about it.Here it is looking up from the bottom it little convex but nothing major i don't believeThis is a 3g test plate i was messing around also showing the final outcome of my Z pattern.  All i do is start on one side hold for a moment go straight across hold then i actually go back straight across i don't attempt to force my hand to go up at all because i know i will do it naturally then i just continue repeating that all the way up.  The only problem is if your welder settings aren't right for the material thickness it may not ever produce what your looking for on a side note though the MM252 is a great welder though i used it at my last job before getting switched to a different welder but the 252 is a favorite of mineLast edited by mr.250r; 03-28-2015 at 09:54 PM.